JohnnyH

My father called me yesterday and said he was looking at a 2001 2500 CTD. I'm not familiar with the 2nd gen trucks so I'd like to know what to look out for. The truck has 67000 miles and they are asking about 22,000 for it. Seems a little high to me, but like I said, I'm not sure. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
John

mishkaya

Same as always with a second gen. truck the biggest concern is that the lift pump may go bad, taking the injection pump out with it (major $$$$). Also you need to make sure it is not a #53 block. I would say those are the two main concerns with the 24 valve engines.
mishkaya

crobtex

Sounds a little high to me to. Check the NADA website and see what they say.

Find some way to hook up a fuel pressure gauge. If it is good, most likely the injector pump will not be a problem. Look at he block underneath the truck on the driver side and see if it had a "53" stamped on it. If it does, look at the engine on the passenger side just below the head, back to front, for any signs of coolent seepage. Unless it's been used for heavy hauling, it's probably OK. Mine has over 160 K miles on it with no problem. There are more good "53" blocks then there are bad ones. Also, drive it on the highway to make the the steering is tight.

J BODY

I see alot of these trucks sell for more than NADA or KBB list at. All depends on condition.

HOHN

Yes, do check for 53 block and LP pressure. Even if it had a 53 and a bad LP, I'd still consider getting it-- for a better price.

A bad LP won't necessarily kill a VP, and a good LP won't keep it alive. My VP died at 40K with perfect FP the whole time.

If it's a 4x4, check out the front end-- track bar, tie rods, ball joints, etc.

Then there's the airbag clockspring, leaking CHMSL and other maladies that have been known to occur on a CTD Dodge.

jlh

dslchk_cowgirl

that's about what I paid for my 01.5 with more miles on it though (94k) The truck was in good condition and had just gotten a new LP and IP on it.

MKELLY

I always use CARFAX when making a purchase. My buddys insurance company just informed him the 2002 chevy P/U he just purchased from the dealer ship last year had over $15,000 dollars worth of damaged repairs done in 2002, and he already had the tranny go this past spring. His new insurance co. uses Carfax.

dslchk_cowgirl

MKelley, the only bad thing about carfax is if something was not reported then it will not show up. We were looking at a 2wd '01 before we got the one we have now, and my husband found where it was obvious there had been some body work, the dealer ran a carfax and nothing came up. Didn't want to take a chance on it being something serious and having problems down the road.

Haulin_in_Dixie

they never made a "good" #53 block. Buying one and knowing it is not smart. If yours has not cracked, you are just lucky, give it time. The best use for a 53 block is running a chain through number one cylinder and using it for a boat anchor. The only way I would purchase a truck with a 53 block is if it was priced as is, as a bad motor. I know of several that have cracked as a grocery getter.

Haulin_in_Dixie

they never made a "good" #53 block. Buying one and knowing it is not smart. If yours has not cracked, you are just lucky, give it time. The best use for a 53 block is running a chain through number one cylinder and using it for a boat anchor. The only way I would purchase a truck with a 53 block is if it was priced as is, as a bad motor. I know of several that have cracked as a grocery getter. Certainly not as a top dollar truck.

JohnnyH

Thanks for all the advise so far everyone. I will definetly look into the block issue. My father said the truck looks too good. He can still read the numbers on the rear leaf springs. I think I will run a carfax on it and see if anything comes up.

Haulin_in_Dixie

Johnny, sorry to be so abrubt about the 53 block, but I have had two of them in my truck, gets expensive.

phox_mulder

That explaines the 2 posts, one for each engine.


phox