ted_pulliam

Can anyone who has removed and replaced their nv5600 transmission crossmember tell me how they were able to shoehorn that size 50 thing into a size 10 truck frame? I'm sick of my truck right at this moment, and I apologize - Ted

Homestead

Porta-Power to spread the frame rails a little bit and a big hammer to knock it out.

I haven't tried it yet but was told by a Chrysler mechanic friend of mine that all he does is push the cross member up and then forward and it almost falls out. He pushes the engine/trans as high as it will go and then pops the cross member out. I haven't confirmed it though.

Jeff

Tate

I've always hammered them up and to the rear, came out fairly easily. First time I did my clutch, I used a porta-power, but since then its just been a trusty 2-1/2 lbs. hammer.

DIESELWRKS

did the hammer thing also and on my thumb. . next time I will try to put some pb blaster on it a couple days before and see if it works or just make a mess.

ted_pulliam

Thanks guys. I posted this thread last night in a hurry, and was trying to edit it afterwards but gave up - I actually meant to say that I have the crossmember out but need to put it back in!

I replaced my clutch (I have been at this a very long time) and I have the transmission all bolted back up in the truck but I am stopped at trying to get the crossmember to go back in. It seems about 3/4" too wide no matter how I try to put it back in. I really can't use a hammer on it because the transmission itself is now in the way and there is no one to hold one side of it in place while I bang on the other side.

I tried to make my own porta power using a 3/4" diameter threaded rod, washers, nuts and pipe sections, but that didn't do anything but walk around on the frame after I adjusted it tight.

I am not sure how it was able to come out so "easy", lol, but can't be made to go back in. I wish I had some way to bend the outer edges in by about 1". That is just dreamin' though because that darn thing isn't going to give up anything it doesn't have to. It would be nice if there were a bottle jack large enough to stuff between the frame rails. I'm not even sure that would work though due to the tranny now being in the way. I'll check into getting a porta-power.

I'll definitely say that replacing my clutch won't go down on my list of all time fun things I've done

Ted

Purplezr2

To get it back in on my truck I took a 4lb sledge and bent the top of the bracket in so you can get it started, then use a floor jacket(or 2 if you have 2) to press it back in. Then use some long bolts to pull the ends back in. Worked awesome for me.

ted_pulliam

Thank you! This is the path I am going to take. I am going to by a "BFH" tomorrow and take this thing down a couple of notches.

Ted

R.T.D.H.S.P.

Bottle jack and some 4x4 pieces does the job well...kinda redneck, but hey it works. Just stay clear in case of a slip.

Tate

Surprised that its fighting you that much. Re-installation is just opposite of removal. Used the 2-1/2 lbs. hammer to knock it up and forward, then use a pin bar to align the holes.

ted_pulliam

Thanks Tate... Yes I am surprised at why the crossmember seems to be about 1/2 - 3/4 inch wider than the truck frame rails, and I wish it would have been easier.

I think it is possible that if I lay underneath the truck and try to stuff one side of the crossmember up in the frame while I whack on the other side with my 2 1/2 lb hammer that it might go back in. The problem I am having is gettin it to stay still and not fall back out of the side that is in the opposing frame rail. That thing is heavy, and the NV5600 is a fatty, taking up nearly all the space available!

I am weighing buying a BFH or a bottle jack and 4x4 sections. I just don't want to waste too much more time, but I especially don't want to do anything to damage the crossmember because if I bend it too much I'll have the opposite problem of it being to small once it is in place.

Ted

Tate

If it is too narrow, as long as you can get the bolt started, it will suck it back in.

Is your crossmember wider than the actual frame rails, or just the tapered part it sits in? I've never seen one thats wider than the actual rails, but I've only done 4 different trucks, 3 of them '98s with the 6-speed crossmember. The '95 had the wimpier crossmember, didn't even really need a hammer to move it around.

Purplezr2

My 98.5 was wider then the frame rails within a foot on each side of the members locations. I got tired of fighting and did what I listed above.

ted_pulliam

It looks like the distance between the frame rails, where the crossmember mounts are, is less than elsewhere on the frame, and it is driving me crazy. I've about had it with this thing. It makes no sense to me how I was able to get it out but it can't be forced back in. It is as if the frame twisted inward when I popped the crossmember out. I've got a 8 lb BFH, and I have been beating the torment out of the cross member on both ends trying to get them to curve inward enough to put an end to this, but the only thing I am succeeding in doing is warping the crossmember

It seems like about the only thing that would bend that stupid thing is a couple of M1 Abrams tanks with no daylight between them!

Ted

ted_pulliam

Purplezr2, I have that hammer now, and I think I need to step back and think for a few minutes before I try to apply any more raw force, not that my tired 42 year old self seems to have enough anyway these days, but it is really getting on my nerves. I am going to apply the other half of your suggestion and without beating on the thing and warping it any more position one side of it in the frame, place a floor jack under that side, and then try to force the other side to slide up and into position with another floor jack.

I hate feeling like a stupid piece of metal is whipping me, but right now that is the case.

Ted

Tate

Install the crossmember between the frame rails where it will go all the way up, so thats about a foot back. Make sure your tranny is pushed up so its touching the floor. The tops of the crossmember will be touching the floor as well as you beat it forward. Sometimes a pry bar will help the member get started on the tapered part of the frame. Pry it out, and give it a whack forward. Then the other side. An extra set of hands helps at this point. The fuel lines might be a bit of an interference, but there is a bracket that holds them to frame further back that are held on by a single bolt. Remove that, and the lines will be able to move a lot easier.