mystery noise??
#1
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mystery noise??
Since the weather has been nicer and now that i can drive with the windows down without getting frostbite I've noticed a new noise coming from the front end of my truck. At first I thought that it was just the brakes squeaking but now I think that it may be my front left wheel bearing. I notice that it mainly squeaks at low speed (under 15 mph) and especially when I'm making left turns. Not sure if it does this at higher speeds since I can't really hear anything over the engine. I was going to take a look at it when I put on my leveling kit but it looks like I have to wait another week until my tires come in.
Any thoughts on this? and if it is a wheel bearing how long do I have and how hard would it be for me to replace it on my own.
Thanks guys,
-Adam
Any thoughts on this? and if it is a wheel bearing how long do I have and how hard would it be for me to replace it on my own.
Thanks guys,
-Adam
#2
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I changed mine in the ol 2003 dually. Well, actually removed them cleaned and repacked with synthetic grease and dropped in new seals so it was just like changing them. You'll get dirty that's for sure! LoL
Use new seals when you change them out and new grease of course. They might be fine for a week or more if you're just now hearing them, but honestly it's hard to say. Worst case, you wreck your truck in the ditch. (ouch)
You'll need:
Pan/brush with solvent to clean,
arbor or hydraulic press to squeeze out the old races and clean again, then squeeze in the new ones (don't mix up the bearings and races either),
silicon sealant to smear on the new seals and a hammer to tap them in gently after dropping in the bearing.
Grease to pack them good with, and
I used those blue nitrile gloves, kept my hands from getting irritated from the hot solvent and clean up was easy too. Plan on taking about 45 min to an hour per side so you're not rushed and miss something. Good luck... it ain't impossible, just sometimes hard to do.
Use new seals when you change them out and new grease of course. They might be fine for a week or more if you're just now hearing them, but honestly it's hard to say. Worst case, you wreck your truck in the ditch. (ouch)
You'll need:
Pan/brush with solvent to clean,
arbor or hydraulic press to squeeze out the old races and clean again, then squeeze in the new ones (don't mix up the bearings and races either),
silicon sealant to smear on the new seals and a hammer to tap them in gently after dropping in the bearing.
Grease to pack them good with, and
I used those blue nitrile gloves, kept my hands from getting irritated from the hot solvent and clean up was easy too. Plan on taking about 45 min to an hour per side so you're not rushed and miss something. Good luck... it ain't impossible, just sometimes hard to do.
#3
I changed mine in the ol 2003 dually. Well, actually removed them cleaned and repacked with synthetic grease and dropped in new seals so it was just like changing them. You'll get dirty that's for sure! LoL
Use new seals when you change them out and new grease of course. They might be fine for a week or more if you're just now hearing them, but honestly it's hard to say. Worst case, you wreck your truck in the ditch. (ouch)
You'll need:
Pan/brush with solvent to clean,
arbor or hydraulic press to squeeze out the old races and clean again, then squeeze in the new ones (don't mix up the bearings and races either),
silicon sealant to smear on the new seals and a hammer to tap them in gently after dropping in the bearing.
Grease to pack them good with, and
I used those blue nitrile gloves, kept my hands from getting irritated from the hot solvent and clean up was easy too. Plan on taking about 45 min to an hour per side so you're not rushed and miss something. Good luck... it ain't impossible, just sometimes hard to do.
Use new seals when you change them out and new grease of course. They might be fine for a week or more if you're just now hearing them, but honestly it's hard to say. Worst case, you wreck your truck in the ditch. (ouch)
You'll need:
Pan/brush with solvent to clean,
arbor or hydraulic press to squeeze out the old races and clean again, then squeeze in the new ones (don't mix up the bearings and races either),
silicon sealant to smear on the new seals and a hammer to tap them in gently after dropping in the bearing.
Grease to pack them good with, and
I used those blue nitrile gloves, kept my hands from getting irritated from the hot solvent and clean up was easy too. Plan on taking about 45 min to an hour per side so you're not rushed and miss something. Good luck... it ain't impossible, just sometimes hard to do.
#4
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Hopefully yours is a 2wd 8lug, if not break out the $$$. Either way definitely worth jacking it up and figuring out what is going on.
#5
Thanks.....mine is a 4x4......showing my ignorance on the 4x2.
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well dang. Mine is a 4x4, I hope that it's not the wheel bearing but I really can't think of what else it could be. Like i said in my first post I don't know how long it's been doing this since i can only hear it when the windows are down and at low speeds. I guess she'll have to get parked until I can get time to look at it. Only good news from that is that the money I save on fuel I can put towards whatever repairs I'll need to make.
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#8
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Definitely sounds like a u-joint to me. I too noticed a squeak at low speeds and upon turning and when I pulled the the u-joints out of the front axle shafts rusty powder fell out of the trunion caps.....NEEDLES WERE TOAST!!
On another note from a few years ago I noticed a squeak while the windows were down and thought it was a front unit bearing so I replaced it only to still hear the same squeak....turns out the rear drive shaft joints were toast.
On another note from a few years ago I noticed a squeak while the windows were down and thought it was a front unit bearing so I replaced it only to still hear the same squeak....turns out the rear drive shaft joints were toast.
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Thanks for the responses guys. I'm hoping it's a u-joint. that makes a little more sense since it's really only noticeable while turning. that also makes for a lot cheaper and easier repair.
Thanks again,
-Adam
Thanks again,
-Adam
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You need to remove bearing to get to the joint, most do both at the same time due to labor.
#12
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You might jack the thing up with the wheel turned left and pull the brake caliper, then spin things and/or feel for slop. You may also see a tiny redish streak of grit around the seals of the U joint.
Mr. Gadget did a great write up with pictures of what is involved in disassembly of this area.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=ball+joints
Mr. Gadget did a great write up with pictures of what is involved in disassembly of this area.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=ball+joints
#13
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Jeff, thanks for that link. That's a very detailed write up, hopefully one day I'll be able to use it. I wish I had time to do this on my own but I think I might have to suck up the cost and take it in to the shop. That being said, worst case scenario if the u joint is completely shot about how long do y'all think i have to get it in before I do real damage to her?
Also, do you think I should get both sides done at the same time and the ball joints as well since it'll already be torn down?
I keep seeing posts on here about ball joints wearing out and that's got me paranoid as to when mine will fail.
I've got a little over 99,000 on the truck and this is the first thing I've had go on her since I've had it.
Also, do you think I should get both sides done at the same time and the ball joints as well since it'll already be torn down?
I keep seeing posts on here about ball joints wearing out and that's got me paranoid as to when mine will fail.
I've got a little over 99,000 on the truck and this is the first thing I've had go on her since I've had it.
#14
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If you are going to pay for the labor, if the ball joints have any play at all I'd have them done. From what I've read chances are a shop may use a slide hammer to pull the hub, and may likely trash the wheel bearings if they aren't already iffy.
Getting both sides done probably isn't a bad idea, especially if unplanned down time is something that would put a monkey wrench in whatever work you do with the truck.
If it is a bad U joint, I wouldn't run it much longer than I absolutely had to. I suppose it might mess up the axle seals inside the front dif, and the axles have to come out and the carrier has to be pulled from the dif to replace them.
Getting both sides done probably isn't a bad idea, especially if unplanned down time is something that would put a monkey wrench in whatever work you do with the truck.
If it is a bad U joint, I wouldn't run it much longer than I absolutely had to. I suppose it might mess up the axle seals inside the front dif, and the axles have to come out and the carrier has to be pulled from the dif to replace them.
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I appreciate the advice guys, especially Jeff. I don't drive her that much except the occasional road trip and trip to town but I do have to drive her across the country back home to Cali at the end of May. I also have a Kore Leveling kit and new rims and tires to put on once they get here so i can check the play in the ball joints before that and decide if i want to get them replaced or not. I guess I shouldn't have rode her so hard the other night while I was running errands, don't know how much life that took out of her. Unplanned down time will be a kick to the groin if i don't get this fixed by the end of May, so it looks like I should go with both sides.
In all you guys are great and thanks for the advice. I just wish that I had the time and tools to do this on my own instead of paying that awesome labor rate. One day..... One Day.
My last question is if anyone knows a reliable mechanic in the Hudson valley area? I really don't want to have to take it to the dealer and pay double....
thanks again guys for the input.
-Adam
In all you guys are great and thanks for the advice. I just wish that I had the time and tools to do this on my own instead of paying that awesome labor rate. One day..... One Day.
My last question is if anyone knows a reliable mechanic in the Hudson valley area? I really don't want to have to take it to the dealer and pay double....
thanks again guys for the input.
-Adam