My TST KDP Kit is on the way!
#1
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My TST KDP Kit is on the way!
Glad it feels good to have finally ordered that... now I'm just going to sit here and wait for it impatiently until it arrives... I sure hope my tranny isn't done first because then I won't drive it (if I can restrain myself) until the kit gets here... I just used Priority Mail since I'm cheap .
So, though there have been about 300 threads about the KDP, any recommendations/special tools that you guys can tell me about from you're experiences?
Thanks,
DFO
So, though there have been about 300 threads about the KDP, any recommendations/special tools that you guys can tell me about from you're experiences?
Thanks,
DFO
#2
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Glad it feels good to have finally ordered that... now I'm just going to sit here and wait for it impatiently until it arrives... I sure hope my tranny isn't done first because then I won't drive it (if I can restrain myself) until the kit gets here... I just used Priority Mail since I'm cheap .
So, though there have been about 300 threads about the KDP, any recommendations/special tools that you guys can tell me about from you're experiences?
Thanks,
DFO
So, though there have been about 300 threads about the KDP, any recommendations/special tools that you guys can tell me about from you're experiences?
Thanks,
DFO
This will take care of ya...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...Repair+TST+Kit
Rick
#3
nope, i have the most basic tools you can have and did it fine. torque wrench, biggest socket you need is a 15mm for the damper bolts ( I had to borrow my nieghbors, my socket set didn't have one). um, the rest is just 10mm bolts, and a couple 8mm bolts, 3/8" ratchet or breaker for the belt tentioner, I used a steel tube as a extention so it was easier to turn. You can undo the damper so easily with just a piece of steel stock, round or square. Just make it the length from the ground to the damper and as you loosen the damper bolts just jam the steel bar in one of the notches in the damper and the bolts will break loose (thanks txdiesel007). to tighten them, just move the steel bar to the other side and tighten them.
Only thing to be careful with is the crankshaft seal, getting it out requires a couple of hard hits with a screwdriver and hammer around the edge, don't hit so hard that you bend the whole crankcase cover, and when you tap the new one in, be careful not to gouge the seal when you tap it with a screwdriver and hammer, just do rapid taps around the whole seal rim.
The clear crankshaft seal guide goes on the inside part of the cover when you install it, it gets pushed out as you put the cover back on the engine, took me a minute to realize that, lol. I was thinking, how would I remove that thing after it's on the crankshaft behind the cover, but it just slides out when you push the cover in place. They have great instructions to.
MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE WASHER FLUID TANK COMPLETELY OUT. It will make it so much easier to remove the fan and shroud, the instructions say you can just loosen it and move it towards the firewall, yea...thats the reason i ended up scraping the radiator and putin a small leak in it, lol.
Only thing to be careful with is the crankshaft seal, getting it out requires a couple of hard hits with a screwdriver and hammer around the edge, don't hit so hard that you bend the whole crankcase cover, and when you tap the new one in, be careful not to gouge the seal when you tap it with a screwdriver and hammer, just do rapid taps around the whole seal rim.
The clear crankshaft seal guide goes on the inside part of the cover when you install it, it gets pushed out as you put the cover back on the engine, took me a minute to realize that, lol. I was thinking, how would I remove that thing after it's on the crankshaft behind the cover, but it just slides out when you push the cover in place. They have great instructions to.
MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE WASHER FLUID TANK COMPLETELY OUT. It will make it so much easier to remove the fan and shroud, the instructions say you can just loosen it and move it towards the firewall, yea...thats the reason i ended up scraping the radiator and putin a small leak in it, lol.
#4
undo the top raidator hose from the radiator side and just bend it out of the way towards the engine, all is smooth after that. The cardboard is great to have, believe me you will rub against it
#5
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MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE WASHER FLUID TANK COMPLETELY OUT. It will make it so much easier to remove the fan and shroud, the instructions say you can just loosen it and move it towards the firewall, yea...thats the reason i ended up scraping the radiator and putin a small leak in it, lol.
And I tried to warn you in an earlier thread, Box.... Sorry, I couldn't resist giving you some crap.
I would recommend removing the radiator to give you extra access, and to prevent damaging it while wrenching. It's only two more bolts and it lifts right out. Plus, you can clean out the fins and inside with a garden hose. I couldn't believe the amount of dirt that was in my radiator fins.
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