ranchertx

My 2001 2500 has 387,000 miles. The truck uses some oil, although not excessive amount, mostly blows out of the blowby tube.

The truck just does not have the power it should. It is totally stock, with in tank fuel pump. It starts quick, runs smooth, just lacks power pulling loads. Yesterday I had a trailer with 10,000 lbs hay (total load about 13,500 lbs) and the truck really struggled to keep it at 60-65. I know my old 1998 would run 80 with kind of load if I wanted to.

For those of you that have done work on these, where do you start?

Can you check the Turbo to make sure it has proper boost? Is it possible we have bad injectors, or the aftercooler of clogged up? Would you do compression test first?

I would like to get a mechanic to check it out, but, want to know what to tell him to check.

rebal

first check your fuel pressure and change the fuel filter and check codes then come back we will help you out.

ranchertx

Waiting on a fuel pressure gauge to come in. Fuel filter is new. Had four codes.

1682, 0217, 0500, 1693.

The 1693 sticks out, that one is Turbo Charge control malfunction. Any idea about that code?

johnh

1682, charging system too low....0217, engine coolant overtemperature condition....0500, vehicle speed sensor...1693, a companion DTC was set in both the ECM and PCM...
these codes are in my OBD2 look up tool from INNOVA

HOHN

There's a blowby test that can be done per a Cummins procedure that involves a restriction orifice and pressure gauge.

If you have really high blowby, much of your cylinder pressure (power) is being wasted.

Is your fuel economy suffering?

Another option I'd recommend is just swapping out those tired stock injectors for some new RV275 units which are pretty inexpensive.

JMO

ranchertx

I need to get the fuel pressure gauge installed so I can keep up with that...the truck has the in tank pump so replacement of the pump is a major ordeal. If I am sure the fuel pressure is good, will possibly look at replacing the injectors, if the compression is acceptable.
How long will the Turbo last under normal wear and tear? When it goes will the bearing go?

The overheat code was when my belt got eaten up due to a bad harmonic balancer.

HOHN

The turbo will normally last a long, long time. The bearings rarely fail unless the turbo was defective from the get go (early life failure) or there is an interruption to the oil flow (super cold start and then high boost instantly).

If you tow a lot, you could see cyclic fatigue set in. This is just a fatigue failure that will usually end up with the turbine and shaft in the downpipe. It is catastrophic. But fatigue could set in at 300K miles, or it might be 3 million miles-- and there's no much difference between them. (google up S-N curve if you want to know more).

I would expect the the turbo to have a 90% chance of lasting 350K miles. Some won't make it that far, and some will go much longer.

JLH

BigIron70

P-0217 decreased engine performance due to engine overheat condition
Did you notice Engine Knock or Rattle Sound When Climbing a Long Grade and Towing a Heavy Trailer? Might want to replace T-stat and check cooling fan clutch operation, radiator for restriction. Part number 05015708AC Thermostat

ranchertx

No knocks or rattles, the engine had overheated once when I threw a belt. We have replaced (in the past 6 mo and 4,000 miles) the thermostat, fan clutch, water pump, radiator, and all hoses, as well as the belt tensioner and harmonic balancer.

I don't drive the truck every day, it is just a ranch truck, use it to haul feed, pull trailers etc. I am trying to go through and replace things as needed to see if I can get a million miles out of her.

Like I said the truck does not have the punch pulling trailers, and not sure what is going on. I know pulling up hills the temp climbs up to 215 or so but never goes much higher. That seems to say it is getting fuel.

Will have the new pressure gauge on in a couple of days and know then about fuel delivery.

FYI the truck has 387,000 miles. Second Injector pump. Lift pump in tank.

snowjoker

Dont rule out the air filter either. I had a cracked manifold on my 99 and it would plug that filter up with soot in no time since its just kinda free floating in the engine compartment lol !

dieselfreak21

Dealing with the same thing on my 99. Got to the new manifold just no time yet. My 99 with a new injection pump at 326k is down from what it used to be. I think the manifold is part of it as well as injector are worn as well. Springs probably getting weak in the injector and opening to early and not building the right preasure. Excessive blow by could be the ring or the valve guides. I would go the rv injector route as well and have the compression checked. Also make sure you manifold isn't cracked.

ranchertx

Got the pressure gauge mounted, at idle, 8-9 lbs, WOT less than five. Guess the old pump is giving out?

It is in tank. Go with a fass and a draw straw? Got to find someone to do the install.

HOHN

If you have 5psi WOT, then you have enough. The pump is fine. That about all a new pump (in tank) will give you.

Better investment than a new pump is less restrictive AN plumbing.

I've still got my factory lift pump-- 9 years later.

ranchertx

Hohn

If you put it on the wall, the pump goes down to 2-3 lbs. I was cruising down the road at 65 and it was holding 4 PSI pressure. I have been told that is not adequate. Is that wrong?

HOHN

Do you still have the restrictive factory banjo fittings?

If so, you'll want to see more pressure.

If you have aftermarket low-restriction fittings, then 2-3lb is (imo) enough.

Some people feel that you need a 8psi or something to the VP44. I disagree and tend to think that almost any positive pressure is enough.

Most important is not what pressure is at the location where you measure, but how much FLOW is arriving at the pump inlet where it matters.

Depending on where you measure, higher pressure can either be an indicator of high restriction (less flow) or an indicator of higher driving pressure (more flow).

JMO-- others will disagree.