fourthandgoal

Just bought an immaculate, meticulously-maintained '96 3500 5-spd dually w/TST and a bigger clutch to handle it (don't remember the model at the moment), K&N air cleaner, stainless exhaust and some superficial mods. I'm not necessarily trying to turn this thing into a neck-snapping monstrosity but I wouldn't mind casually leaving a late-model Hemi in my rear-view.

I know very little about diesels and what they want/need, but I'm here to learn. I've had a friend, same guy that guided me to Cummins diesels to begin with, tell me I need to check the timing case bolts and dowel pin, another tell me I need an exhaust temp gauge, and another suggested some sort of additional cooling device I can't remember the name of.

I'd like to get a gauge panel sometime soon, perhaps open up my air flow a little more on both ends (can't remember my exhaust diameter but it's big), and essentially cover any other relatively easy/cheap mods for both power and longevity first before I start tearing things apart.

Any and all help, suggestions and advice is openly welcomed and appreciated. Thanks in advance--

Tacomaman87

tst what? 12v trucks have mechanical injection pumps no programmers available unless tst makes fuel plates then they lied to you when they said it had a tst. to start get fuel pressure boost and egt gauges then a fuel plate.

fourthandgoal

interesting. this will require some investigation...

and thank you

G1625S

Welcome to DTR Sharp truck I'm pretty sure tst makes plates. The classifieds here are a pretty good place to find gauges and the like It's best to find out exactly what clutch you have so you know your power limits. The clutch is the weak link in the up to 500 rwhp set. Good advice was given as far as the bolts and dowel pin. The k&n is a whole other can of worms....expect many strong opinions on that one! Welcome to the 215ppump 5-speed club--it's a lot of fun!

J Lent

Welcome aboard! Great site here, you will learn lots.

fourthandgoal

Thank you much, appreciate the welcome and heads-up! I thought K&N filters were generally accepted as a good thing, I'll look into it but if anyone can point me to any specific information against it that would be great. I still have the stock cleaner.

I'm getting info from the guy I bought it from on the clutch, will update. Appears the TST he spoke of is referring to the fuel plate, like so http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...ate-p-451.html

Random question, do exhaust brakes impede exhaust flow at all during normal acceleration or do they only compress when the accelerator is released/brakes applied? I was thinking about installing one to help out my service brakes in the mountains under load but it's not so important that I'd accept a significant overall increase in back pressure.. but I wouldn't mind installing an air tank/compressor for general use anyway

Tate

I don't think exhaust brakes will hamper exhaust flow in any significant way when open. If you do buy one, get an inline model, instead of a turbo mount. That way when you decide to upgrade your turbo (and that day WILL come), you can keep your exhaust brake.

For your gauges, I'd look at getting a pyro, 0-60 psi boost gauge and a 0-60 or higher fuel pressure gauge. A lot of people say the fuel pressure gauges aren't needed, but they are great for diagnosing issues on the 12v's.

fourthandgoal

Good call on the exhaust brake style, I know I'll put a bigger turbo in one day, and that gauge setup sounds perfect to me. I know where to tap the egt and boost sensors, but what about fuel pressure? Does anyone make a pre-tapped banjo bolt for the 12v?

Looks like the seller put a South Bend clutch in it, he couldn't remember which model specifically but it's either rated at 400/800 or 450/900. For now I'll assume the former until I learn otherwise, which brings me to another question - anyone know of any diesel dynos in the NC area, preferably Raleigh?

Less important, but figured I'd ask - anyone know off-hand the specific factory gray paint I'm looking for when I paint my gauge panel? And **** Safelite is expensive.

Thanks for all the help folks

Tate

Take the stock 14mm banjo bolt on the IP inlet, drill it out with a letter R or 11/32" bit from the back. It will center it up, and then you can tap it with a 1/8" NPT tap.

fourthandgoal

Excellent, thank you.

so after some reading I've compiled a list of some cheaper mods/upgrades I want to take care of on the short term, as dictated by my discretionary funds. It's in a rough order of priority, any thoughts/advice thoroughly appreciated

--

1. KDP kit
2. gauges (pyro/boost/fp)
3. 3000rpm GSK kit (pdrdiesel.com)
4. cold air intake
5. 50hp injectors
6. timing -> 16-17deg? need more info on this
7. supplemental water cooler (recommended, not sure what he was referring to)
8. turbo upgrade (kit recommendations? not whole new turbo)
9. AFC spring kit

G1625S

Your list looks pretty good. From the sounds of it, you do a fair bit of hauling in the mountains, correct? If that is the case, I presonally wouldn't mess with the injectors. The stock 215 pump/dv's/injectors will flow more than enough fuel to burn the engine down under load. Look up member 'infidel' on here and check out his cold air solution on the cheap. I use it and it works great. Governor springs are a must must must MUST do it mod. The sooner on the list the better. The 215 pumps seem pretty happy around 16.5* of timing. You'll get better fuel economy and, with the 3kgsk, it'll pull like a **** in the mid rpm range--right where you'll need it running up therough the gears under load

fourthandgoal

It's not that I do a lot of hauling through mountains, more that I know I will on occasion and want to be prepared. Most of the truck's activity is city/highway. The main reason I was thinking about that supplemental cooler was for the high-flow injectors, but if I don't need them I don't need them...and once I get that pyro gauge I'll have a much better idea of what I'm working with. I'm not trying to compete this thing, I'd just like to draw as much power out of it as possible without prematurely wearing on the engine/drivetrain.

Thank you for all the information though! Definitely excited about widening that narrow powerband...I'll let you know how it goes. I'll do some more searching on timing but if you happen to know of any threads/sites with some detailed information I'd very much appreciate it.

Lil Dog

The supplemental cooler thing is new to me. I wonder if they are referring to water injection?

Tate

For the GSK, get the 4k kit with valve springs. Once you get the 3k's, you will want more.

I'd go bigger on the injectors. 50 is a baby step. Stay with stock, or go to 90-140hp injectors.

AFC spring isn't really needed once you get more fuel. I run the 215 AFC spring still in my 12v, and I use an old governor spring in my dually.

fourthandgoal

This is probably a stupid question but being that the tach shows redline at 3k and the 3k gsk doesn't defuel till 3.2k, why would I need the 4k/valve springs? Like I said I want to keep this truck practically powerful, not looking to take it to the strip. Same applies for the fuel injectors, don't want the egts too high in the beginning

Then again if I'm being overprotective and should just man up with the big boy parts, I'm an easy sell