Barryn

Perhaps someone could guide me to an appropriate thread on this one.

I'm looking at a '95 D2500 and I'm wondering what the average life is on this pickup. It's a regular cab, 12V Cummins (Of course), 5 speed with 320K miles (VIN 1B7KC26C3SS106690). It's a bit rough, but since it's $4,500 it might be worth my time. For about $500 it could be made quite presentable.
A few things don't work. (Radio, cruise, elec locks, ?) Maybe a fuse problem? A friend has a 05 D2500 and it has an electrical demon (Don't remember if it's a fuse blowing or light burning kind.)

Any items/potential problems I should make sure to have my mechanic check beyond the basics?

Thanks a lot everyone!

Barry

TxDiesel007

320 K

i have a friend that has one, that is stock, 3500 with 346 K and still runs well, for a stocker that is.. Welcome to DTR new friend! Your main concern with this truck would be that dang KDP, killer dowel pin, It has the potential to fall out and cause massive damage to your crankcase everytime you start the truck. if it hasnt been fixed and you still get the truck, its an easy fix.. Please see my post, search on here. KDP Fix using TST kit, for help, and an honest how to on killing that dreaded KDP. Is this new truck a 4wd? or 2wd? Regardless, of the fact, you will have to look at the trackbar on it if its a 4wd, not sure if 2wd's have them or not. Five speed trans, fifth gear nut failiure is a natural at getting to these trucks, basically it feels like your truck is going into neutral again without going into 5th gear. its a common failiure, if you do get the truck just try not to lug the engine, or let the 5th gear drop below 1500 rpms....

Locks dont work? remove switches and clean out the contacts, it should solve your problem. Cruise dont work? Perhaps its the little wire that connects to the battery, i fixed it myself a while back. Radio? can be replaced for cheap.. besides stock radio was no good n e ways...

Other than the basic, id say you have a decent truck, if it was well taken care of, it would be ok for a daily driver... best of luck

Just my opinion, stock 12V engines are VERY VERY FORGIVING... its when u start tinkering with them that they become a little more resistant.. but not too much he he he he he

Tx

Barryn

Thanks TX,

Looks like we're South Texas neighbors

I appreciate your post.

My first pickup was an '82 Ford and I've pretty much always been a Ford guy. I've never had a diesel before and this is the first Dodge I've seriously looked at so some things are a little different. The Cummins is what won me over (Big surprise). From what I've heard, seen, and read the 12V Cummins is the best overall package. I've heard too many scary things to start out with one of the newer 24V Cummins with the demon IP.

The truck is a 2WD. It also has some 5th wheel remnants in the bed (A floppy frame and a big ol' hole). The trans is a 5 speed std (L, 1-OD). The blinkers, the running lights, interior lights, etc all work so it's not a total electrical system meltdown. It has a factory looking keyless entry with an aftermarket looking alarm. It's a regular cab (Losing my Super Cab is gonna be tough. I'm in the truck by myself 80% of the time, I still like having the back seat).

It doesn't have to be perfect, just comfortable and reliable. I pull a 16x8 enclosed trailer for work 4 days a week and I can't have it breaking down on me. I put about 30K miles per year on my truck, nearly all highway. (My '99 F-250 5.4 gasser is over 210K). The stuff that needs work on this Dodge I can do mostly myself and it shouldn't be expensive to fix, mostly an afternoon at a junkyard picking odd parts.

It's basically the automotive equivalent of a rental house that's been lived in hard and now it's time for a new tenant. Surely the elec door locks and cruise can be easily fixed either with a new fuse or your suggestions. I wanted an XM radio anyway so if the radio can't be fixed no biggie (I might not try too hard). I can get the headliner replaced (Filthy and sagging), steam clean the interior, and get the hood painted. (It never looks right when you paint over the flakes-Sand first, Paint second.) These relatively minor things done, it should be a decent looking, efficient, and effective work truck (Plus I think it'll move down the road cheaper than my gasser).

I skimed over the post you referred to.

I assume this is something I'd want to do IMMEDIATELY if not sooner. Yes?
Is there a way to tell if the KDP mod has been done by casual glance? (Probably not why did I even ask?)
It appears pretty involved. (I think you said 8 hours) Is it just one of those, pulling off many layers to get to the problem, kinda deals?

Thanks again!

Barry

TxDiesel007

yes we are..

How bout that? I didnt even pay attention to where you were from. Im in Laredo, Here you will also find third gen performance nut John Rodriguez, and all gen tuner Merrick Cummings, goes by MCummings on here, and John Rodriguez as well.. John Rodriguez.. he he he he he he

As far as the TST KDP Repair kit, Involved? well here u go...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...DP+Fix+TST+Kit

I wrote that post, becase at the time, there were many guys that were attempting about or asking about the KDP, and i figure if a 22 year old college guy can do this thing, anyone can. So i wrote out this basic help and advice for all the "rookie" assasins IE me....

Well seeing that u skimmed over it, i see it was redundant of me to go ahead and repost it, but as a refresher, there it is again. The KDP is something that you wanna kill soon. The way i see it, its like playing russian roulette with ur engine, everytime u bump that key, u risk that little guy coming out and causing possible hundreds of dollars in damage. The way i see it, its a four hour job if u have a friend, I would bank on eight hours if you are taking your time.

The entire job literally consists of wrenching. You will use a 15 mm socket, and breaker bar to break off the balancer, a 10 mm socket to remove all of the timing cover bolts, and a 16 mm socket for the RPM sensor. all it is is simple removal, tab the KDP with the included tab, put in the seal, clean parts and reinstall.. no biggie... really...

Is there a way to tell if the KDP has been done.. Well i hate to say this, but chances are, on most of these 12V truck, the previous owner does not even know what the KDP is.. I know a couple guys still driving round theirs with the KDP intact.. the buddy of mine with 360K on his has been VERY LUCKY... but its his fault to be ignorant, and tell me, ill get to it when it breaks.... ok dude.. whatever.....

Some ppl use a "drill and tab method" which i am unfamilair with, but someone like infidel or wannadiesel will chime in soon with that i hope... But if your timing cover appears to be unmolested, never removed, or leaky in oil, your best bet is to remove it and check out what the deal is under there, for all we know it might be tabbed, or it might be out...

Just get this done asap if u get the ram.. If u need some help and are close to laredo.. PM me.. and ill help u kill it...... just buy the kit... and the beverages....

Respectfully

Rick "TxDiesel007"

Barryn

Thanks again Rick

No unfortunately I'm no where near Laredo. I'm 4 hours north on I-35 from you. I'd take you up on that offer otherwise. Pizza and beverages would be letting me off cheap (Whether the beverages are of the malt & hops variety or the carbonated variety)

We'll see how this all shakes out. Monday I might have a deal if the dealer and I can agree and my mechanic doesn't find any major problems.

Barry

TxDiesel007

Round Rock?

Or austin... I have family up there in both areas.. Round Rock Kicks!! I got an aunt that lives on stone oak! Rudys BBQ is close!! i love it!! Well hope all goes well, PM me if u have any questions...

Rick

Barryn

No not Austin, San Antonio (OK maybe it's 3 hours).

Thanks again for your input!

I'll post again if the deal goes through.

Barry

Fueling around

Yes, the infamous killer dowel pin (KDP) is a priority, but the 5th gear is more of a potential problem. Hopefully being a stock 95 it didn't have enough power for the previous abusers to tow in 5th gear.

2wd takes out a bunch of problems associated with the 4wd including track bar.

Life? I see a guy twice per year (safety shoe sales) with a 96 that tows a loaded gooseneck. He had a rear main seal go at 320k which took out the factory clutch. He is on the 3rd transmission. Twice for 5th gear and once for using a popular synthetic in the gear case. Just saw him 2 weeks ago and truck passed 350k and running strong.

darloa

Don't worry to much about mileage, if the truck has had decent mantience done to it , it should be good for several hundred thousand miles more. My truck is a 95, 2wd, has over 375,000 miles on it and still can lay down over 400 horses. The poor truck hasn't had an easy life, I started the bombing around 200,000 miles and I haven't cut it any slack since. So I would say, go for it. Darl Absher III