Greguw

Hi Guys
I have been working on my new to me dodge for the past couple of weeks now , I just finshed up the front end as far as what it needed , everything looks good , I have apointment for a front end alinement for monday .

Meanwhile I still have parts rolling in from all over , I am still connected with an automotive parts house ... I get the stuff for list ... which is great ... I think I have totaled a list cost of parts so far my price is around $1200 I have put into the truck ... the sugested retail totaled close to 3000 ... If I was joe smoe I would be broke , plus if you had to pay someone to in stall all this stuff .
I put alot of parts on this truck , I feel that it was money well spent .

I am getting to old to keep doing this crap ...LOL

My next area of the truck I am going to work on is new u-joints ... the stock non greaseable ones are still in the truck , plus its a 3 joint shaft with no grease fitting on the slider ...I'm going to add one when I put the new joints in .

I am also going to do the gear oil ...I got amsoil Syn .... I'm fine with that my question is about the dana 70 , are the rear drums connected to the rear axle hub like the old style when you had to pull the axles to get the drum off ...?

My other question was about the rear wheel cyl up grade ...is that a good thing to do if when I get the drums off and have to do the brakes should I do that also ...?

Thanks guys

Greg

Rrloren

I learned on this site that the drums come off quite easy if you lift the rear off the ground and put a lug nut on very loose then run the speed up to 15 mph and hit the brakes hard. Loosens the drum right up. Chock your front wheels!
As far as the wheel cylinders ,I did mine and fine they help , probably the best solution is to convert rear to discs.Got the parts from Napa cheap. Maybe someone can provide part #. Good Luck.

infidel

The larger rear cylinders are #4637337
Since the stock rear brakes do very little work they hardly wear.
About the only thing to do besides replace the cylinders is to flush your brake fluid and add some fresh fluid.

Greguw

Thanks Guys

The bigger wheel cylinder ... are they a direct bolt in ... lines and mounting ...?

Greg

dodgeman01

yep Mine were so I guess they all should. It helped out a good bit.
DM01

Greguw

Thanks for the info , my question is about the cylinder # is there a right and a left , or the same # for both sides .
I am going to have my parts guy get me them , he will proibly cross them into a wagner # .
Thanks

Greg

infidel

Same number left or right. It's a direct bolt in.
The way I do is remove the top two springs on the top of the shoes so the cylinder can come out. Break the brake line loose but leave it on then remove the two bolts. Do the switch. After you have the new cylinder in leave the bleed screw open till fluid comes out while you finish up, may take awhile. This will allow the new cylinder to fill with fluid and make bleeding easier.