greenrig

i tow very small vintage travel trailers so i dont need much power/fuel and just looking for better numbers than 13-15 mpg on my 94 4x4 5spd that is new to me and believed to have stock everything.

kas83

I bought a set of Dynomite Diesel Performance stage 1 injectors for my 95, and have been very happy with them. My auto is definately in need of attention, but I've noticed a consistent 1.7 mpg increase with just the injectors and my #6 plate. I am going to get the timing bumper to 15.5*, and should have a solid increase again.

For your truck, I would say add a plate, get the timing bumped(also helps egt's), and then look into injectors.

displacedtexan

If all you are after is a mild power increase an mainly milage I'd bump the timing (I run 16.5*) and either a 10 plate, or slide the stocker forward.

If you don't really feel the need for more power I'd do the timing first.

dieselman2300

Cant go wrong with a set of DDPs.
New Era is another option also.

I ran both of them, but I like my DDPs more.

HOHN

I think timing would benefit mpg more than new injectors.

With the small pump you have on that 1994 truck, you could probably even go to 17º, but 16.5 is usually about ideal.

JMO

greenrig

ok thanks! the problem with this truck is that i dont know what has been done to it. i bought it from a 'wife of owner' and owner 'gone'. the fact that it was a 94 5spd 4x4 for 5K with 170K kindof forced a quick sale. so far it has proved to be a deal. the thing i wasnt hearing when buying (because i was blinded by '12v plus 5spd' was that it was sitting for maybe up to 2 years. although she said she started it up periodically. she also claims the turbo is bigger. how can i find out what it is? and i'm pretty sure there have been other mods done. a service receipt from 1998 in the glove box reads: set to 230hp paid $638.00 from Gillette diesel service -injection pump, injector and turbo repair (Utah). what do you think they did?
it does blow black smoke if i get on the pedal or especially if i bog 4th.

after reading and reading i was going to change the fuel lines and now bump the timing.

wurkenman

You do not have your signature filled in, but I would also get some gages and keep a close eye on the EGT's.

Tate

Going by the plate rating charts, you probably have a #8 plate in it. You can pull the AFC off, and you can see what plate is in there.

You could probably call Gillette Diesel, give them the VIN and they could probably tell you what they have done to it, depending how far their records go back.

greenrig

is there a link that shows a diagram of where the afc housing is and where the plate is and how to tell what plate i have. thanks for your patience. i learnin tons of info very fast.

John Faughn

I bought mine with unknowns also , haven't taken much apart to see whats what yet , because I figured that until I do some trany mods & see if there have been any , that more power till after may be an issue , being that your have a man. , it might be an idea to take off dust cover to see if you can identify if the clutch has been upgraded , to see if it can handle more power , some one may be able to tell by looking for one of the preferred brands .

Tate

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182

There is the basic structure of the pump. AFC is the very first photo, and the very last one shows it on the pump. There are 4 screws holding it down. There may be a break off screw that you will need a chisel or vice grips to get off, depending if they put on back in when they changed the plates.

I also don't think there is a dust cover on the bellhousings for the NV4500. Pretty sure, but I have been wrong before.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...plate+pictures

Pictures of different plates.

greenrig

thanks for the links and info. remember i want mpg not more power. i realize that the 2 sometimes go hand in hand but the way my truck is set up, it dumps fuel when i step on the pedal. so if anything i would tone it down. -maybe it needs more air. maybe it has pinhole fuel leaks, maybe the rings are bad, maybe a boost leak, maybe the smoke screw, maybe the timing, maybe a clogged sock.!~! i have a ways to go and much to investigate. i wish someone would make it all go away and hand over the 18-20 mpg

in order solve this mystery, i need more clues. in order to find out what fuel plate i have i to pull the afc housing. what do i need to know about that?(thanks TATE for the quick links) will fuel spill out everywhere and will i need to reprime ? and how do i identify my turbo? looks stock to me despite other claims.
and how much is 230hp over stock? sounds like i need to be worried about clutch, and heat. the truck seems like such a dog to me though.

kas83

Where are you at? I love playing with these things. Both of my trucks are getting around 19 when it isn't below 0.


When pulling the AFC, a little engine oil might come out, but nothing to worry about. Making sure the starwheel is all the way back makes for easy removal. The plate will have the number right on top if it is indeed an aftermarket plate.

Your truck came stock at 175 hp, so the 230 hp plate, if that's what's in it, only bumped it up 55. No need to worry about that clutch until around 325hp or so.

Turbo, if stock, will say Holset on the compressor housing, and have no boost fittings/lines coming off the compressor housing. Find the tag, and post up the numbers on it.

greenrig

[QUOTE=kas83;1913322]Where are you at? I love playing with these things. Both of my trucks are getting around 19 when it isn't below 0.

Too bad kas83, that offer is almost worth a trip out your way from santa cruz, ca. we dont get snow here and the thought of snow driving sounds like fun -instead we get cold rain for weeks on end, mudslides, and floods.

thanks for the info, when i get the time and confidence, i will pull that afc housing off to uncover some clues.

i know there is never one answer to better mpg's but what is a more fuel efficient plate?

and what does wastegate do? i hear everyone talking about it but have no understanding of what it does.

kas83

The wastegate is located in the turbine housing, and will allow exhaust gasses to bypass the wheel to control boost.

I had a #11 plate in my 97, which has a 215 hp factory rated pump, and it had very decent manners. I have a home ground 100 in there now, along with the injectors, it has awesome power, and gets 19 on the highway when the temps are warmer than 0. This truck has always gotten decent mileage for me.

For your truck, I'd say that a #10 or 8 would be a good compromise. A little tweaking, and it will run great and get you good mpg.