SLVR bullet

how do i get more low end torque out of the truck in my signature. I am running stock size tires w/ 3:73`s. I am not so concerned about all of the top end, just looking for a little more on the lower end of things... it seems as though the Predator fuels pretty good up top & not the other way around. Would i need to consider a differant programmer?????? i`m not sure let me know what you think...Thanks in Advance

BossHogg

There's others on here that can answer you better, but I'd bet selling that Predator and getting a Smarty would help. The other thing I noticed helping my low end was a intake horn, but it wasnt a huge difference but helped.

trik396

Don't know if it's the same for your 06 but for my 05, the Predator has an extreme RKL 'Puff' tune that puts out insane low end. I have Smarty Jr now and low end is darn good. Nothing compared to the puff Diablo tunes. I'm sure that reg Smarty is up there also but have no reference.

AH64ID

Smarty or a Cam.

dieselfreak21

I tested a Smart on my truck and that did the trick for me. If you really want sick low end make adjustments to the tq managment setting. My TST couldn't over come the emmission setting on these trucks. Now it was smokey but as long as I didn't fuel a whole lot up top it would clear up quick and the stock turbo could recover towning the 5th wheel.

SLVR bullet

so either a Smarty... jr. or Sr. does it matter?

Not sure how i feel about running the RKL tune on my predator..my luck it will break something.

What is Torque management w/ the smarty & is it safe to turn it off. How does it work.

I have little to no experiance with the smarty`s so any info would be great.

carl48

i have the best set up for the 06 and towing. we did very extensive testing to gain mpg. the items listed will also get rid of the in cylinder egr and your oil will stay a lot cleaner, give over 40% improvement in mpg , 300* cooler egt and 50% more low end torque. change the cam to a pdr and the nozzles to ddp50hp. change at the same time to save labor. add smarty jr leave default settings and set on tow. put your silencer ring back in if you have it if not then the next item will restore, get a tag, cool hose and a PMS kit throw the junk you have away and go back to stock on the air box. get a cfm+ and grid heater delete and order a fbd 5" straight pipe kit get a Donaldson m090535 muffler for quiet. the 06 has a dual mass flywheel of very poor design and needs to be replaced. this mod will put you on the raged edge of too much torque for the clutch. south bend makes a kit that they sell by the hundreds because of the dmf junk. it consists of a solid flywheel with a real pilot bearing, disk, pressure plate and new hydraulics

SLVR bullet

sounds like you have done some homework.... so what does a set-up like that run. Also i have an auto, i noticed your talking about a manual set-up.

SLVR bullet

so what Smarty should i go with? can i go with the Jr. or should i go with the Sr. Also, what is the primary differance between them. TIA

MikeyB

You can't go wrong with either but since you have the tranny mods I would go with the Sr. Will have room to grow with future upgrades.

MikeyB

SLVR bullet

Thanks... so what are all of the differant versions like TNT,etc. are these just differant tunes.

MikeyB

With the Sr. there are three tunes, Revo, TNT and TNT-R.

Revo is the standard tune, level 1 starting at 30hp and going up to 170hp. For the stock and near stock trucks. 3,500 rpm max.

TNT starts at 100hp and goes to 230hp I believe. The timing settings are different between the TNT and Revo. Supporting for the more modified trucks running larger injectors, nitrous, propane, etc. 3,500 rpm max

TNT-R is the all out version and only available by special request from Bob Wagner. MUST have the supporting mods to run this program. 4k rpms

MikeyB

carl48

i did not see the auto. i am not a fan of autos and glad that mikeyb tuned in. i was using the smarty jr to restore timing and have never gone above tow setting. the mods i mentioned will only run you about $3500. the engine will last over 1,000,000 miles and drives very well and do not need gauges. if you exceed this it is going to get very expensive and a tremendous loss of expected life. you will need to go twin turbo to keep from losing all of your low end torque. the upper settings on the sr especially the tnt-r produces such high pressure that the heads have to be o ringed and studs installed springs have to be changed and many other mods required and then the auto will explode like a grenade. the best thing to do is to decide what you want your truck to do. if it is to tow a 5th wheel or drive across country i can help on every thing except the auto (i still think there is no place for a auto in any vehicle) if you want to race or pull others like mikeyb can be a lot more help than me. some of the kids have had me help them with some of there mods from watching them i know that a bd tranny will hold up better than ats or others, sizing of the twins is an art, the ats kit is easer to install than bd the bd does not loose as much low end as the ats and it scares the hell out of me to hear a tnt-r tune on red line

SLVR bullet

Mikey thanks 4 the input..... so it sounds like a Jr. or Sr. Revo is all i would ever need as i am just pulling trailers/heavy equiptment & want something with some snot on the bottom end. I really dont see the need to run my Predator on RKL tune just 2 have lots of bottom end. not only that i cant imagine its good for it long term either.

So am i able to adjust TM on both the Jr. & Sr. ? i have heard that this is what really helps the turbo spool quicker giving more bottom end grunt.

Sorry for all the questions... i really dont know a whole lot about the Smarty`s & to be honest all of the different settings has me a little cautious as i would be my luck to have something set wrong & Bang there goes $$$ out the window for repairs.

Thanks Jason

MikeyB

Yes, the torque management is adjustable with both the Jr. and Sr. #2 setting is about right for a little additional 'umpf' at the low end.

MikeyB