Death Dealer

I am lucky enough to have located a 1998 12v, 4x4, intense blue, loaded, quad cab, short box with only 88 000 km's This truck will be my daily driver for the next few years until i can afford a car as a second vehicle. I want power, but i want reliable, towing capable power somewhere around 400 hp. Also the roads around here are often like Baja. I want a bomb proof off-road suspension that is obviously towing friendly. Please voice you opinions.

clutch1

search for free mods and read up. there are a few post floating arount with all you need to know. im sure someone will end up posting them here in a little while.

displacedtexan

To get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge as well.

A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning.

A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.

More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.

To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.

There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.

The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.

ratsun

I dont think it will be very reliable so I think you should pass on this one and keep looking







What was the person selling its # by the way so I can tell them not to sell such a bad truck

Seriously to go to a usable 400hp your biggest expense will be the turbo and trans/clutch the fuel will be cheap

Death Dealer

I'm not new to pumps, though I do appreciate that explanation. What I am looking for is a turbo/injector/pump/fuel system that can give me 400 useable, towable horsepower. I'm not afraid to spend money to get the right combination.
I failed to mention that the truck is a manual, oh and it is the sport model.

clutch1

you already have a 215 pump, good turbo with good spool 62/12, #10 plate, 3gsk, str8 pipe or go with 4" probably not needed though, an upgrade on your intake, and if you still feel you need more fuel maybe a smaller set of injectors, ddp2's ,the new era 370's, or since you have 215's to start with maybe some 191 delivery valves

Death Dealer

so you are saying the stock turbo is plenty of air to support 400hp+?

clutch1

well the stocker will support 400 but it'll be warm, i was suggesting a different turbo with the configuration of 62/12

Death Dealer

That makes more sense. If it was your truck which turbo would you go with in that configuration?

clutch1

strictly towing, for one summer i did custom plate stock position, afc housing forward, aneroid in stock position, completly pinched wastgate, with stock turbo. egts stayed around 1100 and boost was at 20-25 up a small hill with a reasonable right foot. ofcourse i could hit 12-1300egts and 30psi but i could hold speed up the hill with 15K in tow. all on stock clutch. try and do what you can with what you got first believe me you'll be surprised. 400hp is just a number.