Palmetto_kid

If I get the Max Flow sys., what will I need to hook up my fuel pressure guage to it?

i hear all this talk about banjo bolts, and schrader valves,,,,and i dont have a clue as to whats going on. im a 12valver trying to convert over...

please enlighten me. im kinda slow. i just wanna know how to hook up my fp guage, and what supplies i will need. is there directions out there i could check out before i do it? i have read the article on the max flow system, and i didnt get much out of it as far as the fp guage goes. im trying to make a decision on what to buy.

thanks

HOHN

one of the fittings in the Wildcat kit is tapped for 1/8" NPT. Just connect a grease gun hose to this fitting and run it to your gauge. Problem solved.

Justin

Palmetto_kid

and from what i understand the wildcat system replaces all the banjo's?

what about the shrader valve,,,what does it do, and where is it located?

MLR1

There are two shrader valves one at the injection pump, the other is at the inlet to the filter. They are used for pressure testing (like the valves on the a.c. lines). I could be wrong but i think the wildcat system replaces these valves.
Hope this helps.

Ryan

The shrader valve is built into the banjo that goes into the VP44. Unless you plan on doing a lot of BOMBs I would hold off on the kit, high flow banjos are an intermediate option that some people are having very good luck with. I bought one and only used 5 pcs out of it, the rest is setting in the box on my work bench. The reason I bought the kit was for the custom fittings(metric O-ring to #8 JIC) that Rod & Scotty had in the kit. I chose not to mess with the braided fuel lines and opted for #8 hose and push on fittings.

HOHN

Yes, the Wildcat system replaces the Schrader valves (like bicycle tire valves) because these are point of much restriction.

The threads on the banjo fittings are the same as Weber Carburetor inlet fittings (20mmx1.5 maybe?).

So if you want to find other fittings, just replace them with Weber carb inlet fittings from Summit or Jegs (earl's, aeroquip, and others make the fittings). Unfortunately, the largest fittings are only -06AN, and have no gauge tap.

The advantage of the Wildcat system is that it's already tapped for a guage, and the fittings are setup for -08AN line, and will end up costing you about the same as if you tried to piecemeal a system together on your own.

Personally, I would buy ONLY the fittings from Wildcat (not the hose) and go with the socketless hose in lieu of the braided line. The braided line is a PAIN to work with, and can chafe through other stuff under the hood, so you have to cover it with some kind of loom to protect everything else.

The socketless is cheaper, easy to work with, easier on the surroundings, and easily up to the task of fuel delivery.

Justin

Palmetto_kid

well, im not doing any fuel bombing right now, just tring to get ready to. i just wanna do it right the first time. it seems to me that the max flow system is a good setup. now you got me thinking about the braided hose........

what is socketless hose?

HOHN

http://www.hosexpress.com/hose/socke...socketless.htm


Justin

Push Rod

[quote author=HOHN link=board=7;threadid=22118;start=0#msg207007 date=1068224515]
Personally, I would buy ONLY the fittings from Wildcat (not the hose) and go with the socketless hose in lieu of the braided line. The braided line is a PAIN to work with, and can chafe through other stuff under the hood, so you have to cover it with some kind of loom to protect everything else.
[/quote]

We went with the stainless for a variety of reasons:

1) This is in the eye of the beholder, but we think stainless looks better.

2) Even the highest quality nitrile or teflon hose will eventually weather and crack under the hood. Our ugly northern weather is especially hard on them.

3) There are routes to follow with the stainless that will not chafe anything at all. There are 2 and possibly 3 routes that will bring you within an inch or so of other components, but chafing will not occur.

4) The steel 90s that we use are german built and have no equals in build quality. Even the Aeroquip stuff we looked at restricted the line on the bend and the bends were a little too tight for our liking. These 90s were only available in a compression style fit with braided line.

I do agree that the stainless line is a pain to work with in comparison with the pushlocks and socketless stuff :'(

Rod

jd knite

Just my .02 worth on the braided subject...SparkChaser n' I put my gauges from Rod in couple of months ago n' I couldn't be happier with not only the guages, but the stainless as well. True, it was a little stiffer to work with n' snake up the pillar, but nothing that some Corona didn't fix... and it looks great finished. Couple of zipties along the firewall was all I needed to finish it off. Not to mention the peace of mind knowing that if there were to be any rubbing on the line that it will take longer than the life of the truck to wear thru stainless vs. hose...diesel in the cab can't be fun. Right SparkChaser?? Thanks for the help dude...n' thanks to Rod n' the gang at Wildcat for great product and even better service. JMHO...

jd

BigBlue

When I swapped over to the Holley Black (which is now my spare pump ), Rod sent me a high flow kit (it was rubber line). Very nice. Pressures went up about 1-2 psi across the board. That was with the STOCK lift pump. I now have -8 stainless from the tank up and while it is a little harder to work with, I wouldn't have anything else. It looks ALOT better than stock or rubber line, and is very strong (I had to trim a section off to put a new fitting on). And after dealing with Rod as much as I have and picking his brain trying to get that Black to work, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend any of his products. ESPECIALLY when it comes to fuel supply.