TxDiesel007

Not to add more to an already long thread.

But i just got my LP put on yesterday. I was rather disappointed because now at idle im at 8-10 psi as i was before. But once the truck gets warmed up 10-14 seems to be the new norm. Before it was always at 8-10 as this thing died on me.

With the new LP i dont feel a significant difference in performance. But i do see higher numbers up when im on the throttle. Crusing at 45 mph in fourth gear i see about 1500 rpms tho and about 22-24 psi of fuel I like what im seeing. before id seldom see over 14 psi (when the pump chose to work i guess)

Also i see that the pump always rises when i get on the throttle at just regular driving, But when i go WOT the pressure drops a little bit. now sure as to why..

Im pretty much done with messing with the fuel system on the truck for now, But any suggestions as towards why my idle pressure is still lower than what it should be?

I have a new overflow valve, new LP, new rubber lines, Just aint dropped the tank yet.

Thanks guys!

Rick

infidel

I would first suspect the gauge. Buy a cheap 60psi water pressure gauge from the hardware store and compare it to the other gauge's readings.

VinDiesel

'Cause the IP is sucking a bunch of fuel!

The in-tank screen is ridiculously fine, could be plugging up. I cut the nylon mesh out of the plastic frame and fashioned a new "screen" from perforated stainless steel (about 1/16" diameter holes). Then I added an external 3/8" in-line fuel strainer (Fleetguard FF5079, Baldwin BF1173, Napa FIL3270, or Wix 33270, ~140 microns). Now, I can just clean it without ever dropping the tank again.

I suppose though not mentioned, you have a new fuel filter in place and have cleaned or replaced the strainer in the fuel heater.

TxDiesel007

Hmm this sounds interesting to do so...

Im gonna go ahead and check the gauge, i bought an el cheapo water gauge from the auto parts store see what it tells me, BUT the procedure ur talkin bout entices me... how do u get the filter in there? or where does it go? All i get is that you install a filter on the outside of the tank on the fuel lines... and do away with that stupid mesh... interesting.. and yes, new strainer and fuel filter as well...

Rick

VinDiesel

Hey Rick,

I did away with the too short, easily kinked plastic lines back at the tank (go from steel lines on inside of frame to the tank pickup module). I didn't much care for the mickey mouse quick connects either. So, I just replaced that mess with diesel-rated fuel hose (3/8" supply & 5/16" return) and worm-drive hose clamps. For the supply hose, I made a loop over the frame to the outside where I attached the in-line strainer with one of those rubber covered hose holding clamps on an L-bracket I made and hung from a bed bolt. The strainer sits horizontally just inside of the bed support bracket in front of the rear spring, nicely out of the way. Only bad part is when you take it loose for cleaning (from below, on a creeper), it's nearly impossible to not have some diesel run down your arm.

Oh well, still beats the heck out of dropping the tank! Now, it's about a 5 minute job to remove, clean, and replace.

Regards,
Vince

TxDiesel007

AWESOME!!

this sounds like it will work well. its on my next project list, now to run this tank a little low... and get my new Valair clutch in... thanks for instructions Vince!

Rick