Lowering the Rear for Towing
10-07-2009, 05:49 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lowering the Rear for Towing
I have a 2001 2500 4x4 that I use to tow a travel trailer. I recently got a new trailer and with the ball mount in the lowest position on my Reese receiver hitch the trailer sits high in front when towing. Since the truck sits about 4" higher in the rear compared to the front, I thought it would be a good solution to lower the rear by about 2" or so.
I found a writeup on another site that shows how to lower the rear by removing a couple of 5/8" spacers that sit between the axle and the spring pack. Apparently, that only applies to third gen trucks. My second gen has a cast iron spacer block that is about 4-3/4" tall between the axle and the spring pack (see picture below).
I considered cutting down the existing spacers but I thought I'd check to see what was available in the bone yard first. Someone had suggested in another post that Ford 4x4 spacers might work so I initially was looking for an F250 4x4. I didn't find anything suitable on a Ford or Chevy but I did come across a 1992 Dodge D250 4x4 with 2-7/8" spacers (pictured below).
These appear to be nearly perfect for my needs, netting a 1-7/8" lowering (at the rear axle) if used as-is. My calculations indicate this would yield a 2.6" drop at the receiver hitch.
If used as-is, the bump stop will end up being lower than it is now. I'll have to look at either building it up or putting a spacer on the bumper where it is mounted to the frame to get the same effective position.
I found a writeup on another site that shows how to lower the rear by removing a couple of 5/8" spacers that sit between the axle and the spring pack. Apparently, that only applies to third gen trucks. My second gen has a cast iron spacer block that is about 4-3/4" tall between the axle and the spring pack (see picture below).
I considered cutting down the existing spacers but I thought I'd check to see what was available in the bone yard first. Someone had suggested in another post that Ford 4x4 spacers might work so I initially was looking for an F250 4x4. I didn't find anything suitable on a Ford or Chevy but I did come across a 1992 Dodge D250 4x4 with 2-7/8" spacers (pictured below).
These appear to be nearly perfect for my needs, netting a 1-7/8" lowering (at the rear axle) if used as-is. My calculations indicate this would yield a 2.6" drop at the receiver hitch.
If used as-is, the bump stop will end up being lower than it is now. I'll have to look at either building it up or putting a spacer on the bumper where it is mounted to the frame to get the same effective position.
10-07-2009, 06:36 PM
#3
Both are great ideas. The only problem with removing the stock spacers is bottoming the shocks out if you have to put on a heavy load and you will need to have more u-bolts made up at a shop or spring shop to use the shorter spacers.....that's why I keep my stock spacers & u-bolts at the ready on the shelf.
10-07-2009, 07:35 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I say get the new u-bolts and give it a shot. I'm with ya, my 2500 sits higher than my off-road jeep. I understand it has to do with the front being a solid axle, and i wouldn't have it any other way, but the **** tailgate is not suipposed to be almost to my chest when it's open!
let us know how it works out for ya, and post some before and after pics!
kent
let us know how it works out for ya, and post some before and after pics!
kent
10-07-2009, 10:09 PM
#5
I did the 3 inch drop in the back...added 1.5 inch spacer and got new u-bolts...To adjust for different height and extra weight in the box, if I haul something,I added air bags....For me it worked great.Had no bottom out problems with the axle or the shocks.
10-07-2009, 11:14 PM
#7
Any shop that deals installing leaf springs or is specialized in suspensions or frame aligment...If you look in your yellow pages under those sections you should be able to find a shop that will build you a set of u-bolts with the measures you want...But let them do the measurements...for the amount of drop you want...Because what happened to me, is they did the measurement and made u-bolts way to short.So they had to make a new set for no charge.Four u-bolts costed me $42.00...Hope this helps...
Trending Topics
10-13-2009, 06:24 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I installed the D250 spacers today. The net effect was a lowering at the hitch of 2.5", close to my prediction. I had some new U-bolts made at a local spring shop that are 2" shorter; they cost $9.40 each.
One issue that I didn't anticipate is that the hole in the top of the spacers from the D250 is too small to fit over the centering pin on the spring pack. The D250 hole is about 5/8" while that on the stock spacer is 13/16". With the right equipment, it is a pretty simple operation to drill them out. The picture below shows the setup for the drilling on a milling machine. A heavy duty drill press would probably have worked, too, although the setup would be more difficult.
Here is a picture of the D250 spacers installed. I probably should have cleaned up the D250 spacers and painted them but it likely doesn't matter much.
Lastly, here are the before and after pictures. The total cost was less than $50.
One issue that I didn't anticipate is that the hole in the top of the spacers from the D250 is too small to fit over the centering pin on the spring pack. The D250 hole is about 5/8" while that on the stock spacer is 13/16". With the right equipment, it is a pretty simple operation to drill them out. The picture below shows the setup for the drilling on a milling machine. A heavy duty drill press would probably have worked, too, although the setup would be more difficult.
Here is a picture of the D250 spacers installed. I probably should have cleaned up the D250 spacers and painted them but it likely doesn't matter much.
Lastly, here are the before and after pictures. The total cost was less than $50.
10-13-2009, 06:29 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is a picture comparing the two spacers. Note that the D250 spacer has already been drilled. I was surprised at how lightly constructed the stock spacers are in comparison.
10-15-2009, 09:24 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
