lower my egt.......
#1
lower my egt.......
Well, with the new trailer Im not surpeised to see the egt's way too high.....
Its a 98 5 speed, 4000 gsk, 4 inch exhuast, 370's, stock turbo, blocked waistgate, BHAF. and a #10 plate, in the stock location.
Empty with no trailer at all I can easily go past 1500 ......I drive it watching the egt like its pedal meter.
Cruising empty level ground 70 mph 800egt.
With my new trailer .....empty...cruising level ground 65 mph 1100 egt.
I can load about 7000 lbs more to the trailer easy.
Will moving the plate back make a large difference?
Should I just do a water /meth set up, Im familiar with them from another venue. Or is it time for twins?
Its a 98 5 speed, 4000 gsk, 4 inch exhuast, 370's, stock turbo, blocked waistgate, BHAF. and a #10 plate, in the stock location.
Empty with no trailer at all I can easily go past 1500 ......I drive it watching the egt like its pedal meter.
Cruising empty level ground 70 mph 800egt.
With my new trailer .....empty...cruising level ground 65 mph 1100 egt.
I can load about 7000 lbs more to the trailer easy.
Will moving the plate back make a large difference?
Should I just do a water /meth set up, Im familiar with them from another venue. Or is it time for twins?
#2
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i would think you need to concentrate on more air, a scotty II w/ the hole cut in the cowl would probably help you, i would give rod @ wildcat a call and ask him. He is good and honest and he will shoot straight w/ you...also looks like you are pushing a lot of fuel, a turbo upgrade would probably help too.
#3
I haven t done the timing....thanks, that will probably help. I would bet its stock. I know the KDP got it before I got the truck, it was repaired and probably timed by the book.
I think Im gonna build a twin set up......but it won t be for a couple months probably. So I don t want to buy a new single just to sell later.
I run about 10 psi with the trailer on pretty flat ground @65 (maybe 8 psi)
empty has never been a problem except when Im racing someone....Istill have the stock clutch in it , so that doesn t really happen that much. I think Ill have to do the timing asap.......along with the 60 lb valve springs for the e brake.
I only get 32-34 psi empty but I d don t know if I ve ever seen wot. The egt swings past 13, 14, 15 like it was a tach. So I get out of it.
I think Im gonna build a twin set up......but it won t be for a couple months probably. So I don t want to buy a new single just to sell later.
I run about 10 psi with the trailer on pretty flat ground @65 (maybe 8 psi)
empty has never been a problem except when Im racing someone....Istill have the stock clutch in it , so that doesn t really happen that much. I think Ill have to do the timing asap.......along with the 60 lb valve springs for the e brake.
I only get 32-34 psi empty but I d don t know if I ve ever seen wot. The egt swings past 13, 14, 15 like it was a tach. So I get out of it.
#4
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Basically, what's already been said. Your problem is similar to what mine does right now. I get away with staying in it a little longer because of my hybrid turbo, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to everyone- have quite a bit of trouble with it "barking" when the TC locks up, esp. when pulling. I have the stuff here to delay that lock-up, but not the time to put it on right now. I have also decided to go the twins route for very heavy duty pulling (and occasional drag race ).
The Scotty will probably help alot, esp. on the highway, pulling.
Meanwhile, you could see some benefit from isolating your BHAF from the engine compartment. It depends on how much time you want to spend fabricating vs $. Make the best heat shield you can, as much like an airbox as practical. Bring it up to the bottom of the hood when closed. Add a flexible seal such as part of a garage door seal along the top. Open the hole to the cowl (same as for the Scotty (which you will probably still do later). I think the info is in the "tech" section. You can also include the fender hole, just seal off paths for hot under-hood air.
That should help some until you get the chance to set the timing. I'm going to be a little conservative on mine and put it at about 16*.
BTW, anything over ~35psi on your HX35 will just make more heat. You might want to hold off on the big exhaust housing, the 12 will work with twins if you also use an external wastegate. If you go too big, spool-up will be slow, esp. with the twins.
The Scotty will probably help alot, esp. on the highway, pulling.
Meanwhile, you could see some benefit from isolating your BHAF from the engine compartment. It depends on how much time you want to spend fabricating vs $. Make the best heat shield you can, as much like an airbox as practical. Bring it up to the bottom of the hood when closed. Add a flexible seal such as part of a garage door seal along the top. Open the hole to the cowl (same as for the Scotty (which you will probably still do later). I think the info is in the "tech" section. You can also include the fender hole, just seal off paths for hot under-hood air.
That should help some until you get the chance to set the timing. I'm going to be a little conservative on mine and put it at about 16*.
BTW, anything over ~35psi on your HX35 will just make more heat. You might want to hold off on the big exhaust housing, the 12 will work with twins if you also use an external wastegate. If you go too big, spool-up will be slow, esp. with the twins.
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