v8440

Hi all,

Some of you may have seen my post yesterday about a 2002 that I found out was a '98 (it was my error, not the owner's). Well, I have found out about some more 2nd gen dually's for sale. I'm sorry to keep bugging everyone about this, but I felt I should post with yet more questions, since the situation has changed somewhat.

A guy I bought a car from once works for a company that uses duallies to haul ~20k trailers all over the place. They have several for sale, ranging from '94 to '99. As far as I know, all are 5 speed 2wd trucks. Some if not all have had the engine replaced, and one or two may have had the transmission replaced. The trucks have generally been driven by one or two people, not by the whole company. I asked why the engines ended up being replaced, and he told me that the trucks are driven into plants that make and use all sorts of chemicals, which may get ingested into the engine over time. Also, they have between 2 and 3 hundred thousand miles, all of it towing about 20k.

They're taking highest offer on these trucks, which kinda sucks since I don't know exactly when they'll be done taking offers. The trucks are in Sioux City, Iowa and I'm in Montgomery, AL.

What I need to know about is the differences between 94's, 95's, 98's, and 99's. I do know 99's will have the 24 valve motor, 98's could have either, and all earlier trucks will have the 12 valve motor. I'd like to know about the bombability (is that a word?) of the different years, trouble spots and expense to fix those things, etc. Keep in mind, all of them will have the 5 speed manual. Armed with all this, I can make an intelligent offer on one.

(By the way, I'm told they commonly sell for around $3500 to $6000, depending on the individual truck)

1320

I would try for a 98 12 valve first.....then any other 97/96 then 95/94.....in that order.

12's are easier in my eyes....all mechanical etc...if your looking to race it, get an auto if available....if your not get the 5 speed.

v8440

Not looking to race it-looking to mount a generator on the back and go mucking through muddy fields and junkyards working on cars and pulling them out of the wilderness. Really, anything requiring a strong truck that can take having heavy things bumping around in the bed. A utility bed with toolboxes would be perfect to tell the truth.

However, I have noticed how cheap and easy power upgrades seem to be for the 12v versus the 24v motors. TST offers a kit that I guess changes some stuff with the injection pump. It's like $255, and they claim it can make up to 280 hp and 675 ft lbs by itself. I'd imagine that it would be helpful to have a 4" exhaust and a good air intake setup to keep egt's in check. Of course, a boost gauge and an egt gauge would be the first mod.

TxDiesel007

for your needs

seems a 12V would be your best bet, it wouldnt hurt as much when u dent it or whatever than if it was a newer truck, and for backfield mechanics, a 12V is much easier to get goin again if it dies on you for some odd reason, main culprit possibly being a fuel shutoff solenoid, which is about 22 bucks, i keep a spare in my glovebox just incase.. (thank you infidel ) Horsepower can be made even cheaper than 255 dollars, just bump the fuel plater forward gets some gauges to monitor, and wala, 30 or so instant horses! Grind that fuel plate flat to make a zero plate or pm NORTHSLOPE, and he can get you a 100 plate which will really knock you to the seat of your pants.. ud have a scootin work truck... Good luck, and there is nothing wrong with older 12Vs, the only difference is the pump... Just mind you if you do go as high as the 100 plate or the zero, your tranny aint gonna work unless u modify it whether it be an auto or stick, i ran a 0 plate in mine GOOD LORD.. that turbo screams for mercy and the stock clutch does not like it.. thanks! and best of luck in ur quest.... the cummins wont let u down....

Rick "TxDiesel007"

OTR PU

If I were gonna go muckin round in the mud I think I'd prefer a 4 WD, But then I drive 2WD duallies.

Cheers,
Steve J