toupee

Hi all,
I sold my 05' a while back and am now considering getting a cheaper truck so I'm looking at 2nd gen trucks. I don't know as much about them other than I've heard that there is a pin or something that can back out and mess up the engine on some and the blocks can crack, correct?
I'm looking to have some of you all that are real familiar with these trucks clue me in to what I should be looking for or maybe listening for test driving.
Also, any input as to the value of trucks right now would be great. I know they have to be selling for less due to fuel prices. Anyone know a about how much of a hit it's causing on pricing?
Thanks ahead of time!

high bid

I don't own a 12v but they're the ones that need the "killer dowel pin" (kdp) fixed. From what I understand if your mechanically inclined you can pull the front timing cover off and remove it or cover the hole where it can potentially fall into your timing gears.

On the 24v a series of the blocks from I think 1998.5-2000 have a block that was cast in Mexico or Brazil. The serial number on the block is located on the bottom front driver side of the block where it meets the oil pan. The casting problem they speak of is the "thin" cooling wall along the rear passenger side fo the block. If cracked you will see coolant leaking from there. KNOCK ON WOOD but mine and several others have had zero probs w/the "53" block. Some are thin walled an some aren't.....some crack and other don't. So far so good @ 173k miles. If I were you, I'd find a 1997 or 1998.5 12v. Good luck.

~Angry Tractor~

On the KDP you shouldn't remove it, you definately should tab it. Two methods removed timing cover and put a tab on it, kit is available from TST or you can make your own. The other method is Buy a fixture that allows you to drill a hole in the timing case, directly above the dowel pin, tap the hole and use the proper length set screw to block the dowel pin. If the dowel pin has worked itself out to far you may have to remove the timing cover to drive it back in. Regardless, the timng case needs the dowel pin to remain in the proper alignment.

GFB

Loose steering box, tie rod ends, ball joints....the usual dodge front end.

(24v engines) Fuel pressure should be 10 psi or higher ideally under WOT.

They like to rust on the bottom inside of the doors.

53 block as mentioned. Some early 24v engines also had KDPs.

They switched to rear disc brakes halfway through '01.

seahawkdodge

I've had to replace every single steering component on my 98. Steering box, tie rod ends, drag link ends, track bar (DThuren). I've also had to replace both unit bearings on the front axle, at $200+ a pop.

Brakes...those too.

GFB

Yeah if you need to do a ball joint replacement go ahead and budget money for hub units because if they aren't bad you'll probably damage them trying to get them out lol.

wadecool

You should look at 01 or 02 2nd gen trucks, as they don't have the engine block troubles. Also, I'd say get a 6 speed tranny because the 5 speeds are crap (I have one). Check out the lift pump & injection pump, they can go out sometimes. I agree with everyone else about the front end issues. Ideally, you'd want to find a truck that has had ball joints, tie rods, wheel hubs, and possibly steering box replaced recently.