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Longhorn trailers, Emory, TX. Any experience?

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Old 03-25-2010, 09:59 PM
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Longhorn trailers, Emory, TX. Any experience?

I'm looking at buying a 32' gooseneck trailer tandem duals. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with them. Good or
bad. They have good pricing and good features. There r prob better trailers Out there but I'm thinking about this one.
Suggestions please.
Www.longhorntrailers.com
Old 03-25-2010, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by roughstock
I'm looking at buying a 32' gooseneck trailer tandem duals. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with them. Good or
bad. They have good pricing and good features. There r prob better trailers Out there but I'm thinking about this one.
Suggestions please.
Www.longhorntrailers.com
As someone who has built a couple of trailers myself, and looking at their pictures on their website, there are some things I like and some I don't. I just looked at their heavy equipment trailers, so I can't speak to their lighter trailers.

They've pierced the main I-beam on their goosenecks for the crossmembers that make up the deck. The crossmembers are 3" structural steel.Those are good things. They welded all around, (I think), the channel that is the crossmember. That is a bad thing. They should have welded just the top and bottom flanges of the crossmember to the main beam so that there were no vertical welds on the main beam, (makes a weak spot on the main beam).

The ramp set-up is rather chinsey for a heavy trailer. A double hinge arrangement so that the ramp can drop down or lift up slightly on un-even ground would be better on something that heavy instead of a simple tube with a piece of pipe running thru it to make up a hinge.

They cut the flanges on the main I-beam to mount the jacks. Bad thing. This weakens the beam, which is something you don't want, especially that far forward where a lot of vertical weight will be applied.

They're using a very light gauge steel gusset to strengthen the vertical post of the gooseneck to the horizontal beam that extends forward and holds the hitch. I would use 1/2" plate for this application as the normal forces that the gusset is there to alleviate will be trying to tear the horizontal beam off the vertical post.

It looks like they're using structural angle for side rails. I would like to see structural channel used instead, but that's a personal preference.

They're using recessed lighting in rubber grommets for everything except the 3 light rear ICC markers. Nothing 'wrong' with that but looks kinda cheesy.

Their tag-a-long dually trailers do not have pierced main beams to accommodate the crossmembers. Makes me wonder why they'd do such a design change for basically the same trailer without a gooseneck.

I'd like to see which axle manufacturer they are using. I'd also like to see how they are accommodating the wiring underneath the trailer. Some manufacturers simply weld washers on edge and pass the wiring thru the washer holes or drill holes in the crossmembers themselves. Conduit is the 'right' way to run wiring.

Are they using primer before the paint?

Are they sandblasting or acid washing the bare metal before the primer to remove mill scale?

They have a real cool logo!

Hope this helps.
Old 03-26-2010, 09:16 AM
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These are the features on the gooseneck that Im looking at buying:

* 2 - 10,000# DEXTER BRAKE AXLES (2 YEAR WARRANTY)
* RADIAL TIRES - ST 235 x 80 x 16
* MULTI LEAF SLIPPER SPRINGS
* 12' X 19# I-BEAM FRAME (A-992), (50,000 MIN.YIELD), (65,000 TENSILE)
* 3" CHANNEL CROSSMEMBERS ON 18" CENTERS
* 5" CHANNEL SIDERAILS (NOT 5 X 3 ANGLE)
* 2 - 12,000# SPRINGLOADED DROPLEG JACKS
* 10" CHANNEL NECK (15.3# PER FT.)
* FORMED NECK GUSSETS
* 2 5/16" ADJUSTABLE COUPLER
* CHAINTRAY WITH LOCKABLE LID (DEEPER THAEN NORMAL)
* BRAKE-A-WAY KIT
* 6 WAY PLUG
* 2" X 3/8" RUBRAIL
* 102" WIDE
* SEALED BEAM RUBBER MOUNTED LIGHTS
* DOT LEGAL
* TREATED FLOOR
* 2 - FOLD-UP, SPRING ASSISTED RAMP (SOLID SIDED)
* PRIMED AND PAINTED

The Three marker lights on the rear are now cut out and rubber grommet mounted. The website has older picts. The one I am getting is not a pierced frame. I had one of those and the rear of trailer always drug the ground when on slightly uneven ground.

On the GN model, they do not cut out the I-beam to mount the jacks. I agree that it is a very weak spot to be cutting out the frame. They use an acrylic enamel, we use this type of paint at work and it is very durable, and somewhat forgiving if the surface isn't prepped 100%. I know they are primed and painted top and bottom, but not sure about acid wash or sand blasting. All i need it to have the paint fall off within 2 years like my old trailer.

I would like double hinge ramps. My other trailers have that.
Old 03-26-2010, 09:18 AM
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and the wiring is in conduit, but I hope they didnt use scotch locks. Ill have to call and ask.

I HATE SCOTCH LOCKS.
Old 03-26-2010, 11:10 AM
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I got my 30 footer from here

http://kaufmantrailersales.com/

Always held up extemely well, towed nice and never had any problems.

Very good pricing.

Thanks,

Jay
Old 03-26-2010, 11:50 AM
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it looks like your getting a 27' with a 5' deck without a center pop-up,

I bought a new trailer 18 months ago and looked at several and Longhorn was one as I live in Athens

[U]make sure[U] the I beams run all 32' and are trimmed for the deck rather than a 27' beam with the last 5' of the deck welded on, if you haul really heavy equipment that patched on drop deck can be a problem

I ended up buying a Big Tex because I wanted to buy from a company big enough to support what they sold and that I knew was going to be in business for several years to come with a reputable name know nationwide (in case I ever wanted to sell it)

I met a guy pretty high up in the company through roping, they tend to mark trailers down significantly when they've been in inventory over 6 to 8 months and the wood deck gets faded, I figured the wood was going to fade when I owned it anyway

I gave $6,200 for a 25' (20' deck w/a 5' drop deck) tandem dual 48" spread axle with a "pop up", radial tires, other than that pretty much what you're looking at buying

if you want drop me a pm with a email and I'll give you the guys number and send you a picture

just my $0.02
Old 03-26-2010, 12:56 PM
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How did you find out their prices...? I'm looking for a gooseneck now too, but I'm leaning toward a lowboy of about 24-26 deck length.
Old 03-26-2010, 05:38 PM
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I'll comment in red.

Originally Posted by roughstock
These are the features on the gooseneck that Im looking at buying:

* 2 - 10,000# DEXTER BRAKE AXLES (2 YEAR WARRANTY)Good choice
* RADIAL TIRES - ST 235 x 80 x 16 Another good choice
* MULTI LEAF SLIPPER SPRINGS Yes, stay away from Torflex in a dually application
* 12' X 19# I-BEAM FRAME (A-992), (50,000 MIN.YIELD), (65,000 TENSILE) Good
* 3" CHANNEL CROSSMEMBERS ON 18" CENTERS I'd rather see 16" centers, but I guess 2" ain't gonna break the deal!
* 5" CHANNEL SIDERAILS (NOT 5 X 3 ANGLE) Much better
* 2 - 12,000# SPRINGLOADED DROPLEG JACKS Good
* 10" CHANNEL NECK (15.3# PER FT.) Good
* FORMED NECK GUSSETS I'd still rather see 1/2" plate but all the mfg's are going this route it seems
* 2 5/16" ADJUSTABLE COUPLER Good
* CHAINTRAY WITH LOCKABLE LID (DEEPER THAEN NORMAL) Nice!
* BRAKE-A-WAY KIT Good. Need it to be legal
* 6 WAY PLUG 6 way? I'd think 7
* 2" X 3/8" RUBRAIL Nice touch. A lot are using 1/4" which bends if you just lean against it
* 102" WIDE Good. Maximum legal width
* SEALED BEAM RUBBER MOUNTED LIGHTS Excellent
* DOT LEGAL I'd HOPE!
* TREATED FLOOR Probably pine lumber?
* 2 - FOLD-UP, SPRING ASSISTED RAMP (SOLID SIDED) I'd still rather see the double hinge
* PRIMED AND PAINTED At least they're using primer. I HATE to see no primer being used.

The Three marker lights on the rear are now cut out and rubber grommet mounted. MUCH better!

The one I am getting is not a pierced frame. I had one of those and the rear of trailer always drug the ground when on slightly uneven ground. Yeah, that's the reason they do that, to keep the load lower.

On the GN model, they do not cut out the I-beam to mount the jacks. Perfect!

...not sure about acid wash or sand blasting. All i need it to have the paint fall off within 2 years like my old trailer. I'd check on this point. New steel has a coating called 'mill-scale', a by product of its' manufacture. Moisture gets under it if it's not removed with acid washing or sandblasting and consequently, when the mill-scale comes off, so does your paint.
Old 03-26-2010, 06:17 PM
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Thanks chaikwa. I feel better. Im gettting a third ramp for $150, and a winch plate for $25, welded between the up rights in the GN.
Even comes with a spare.
Another trailer manufacturer, that I look at, listed the spare tire as an option and wanted $185 for a spare. I should have asked if paint was extra.

I'll prob be ordering a longhorn monday. plus if I dont like it, I can sell it, because im getting a good price. Thinking about also getting a bumper pull at the same time, i am down there , and take it home to re-sell.
Old 03-26-2010, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by roughstock
Thinking about also getting a bumper pull at the same time, i am down there , and take it home to re-sell.
Just out of curiosity, what are they asking for a 10k bumper pull dually?
Old 03-27-2010, 07:33 AM
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Just to let you know if you have to make the purchase and pick the trailer up before a certain date. Let me know you can transfer the money and I can go by and pick it up. I will bring it to the farm and you can pick up here at your convenience.
Old 04-02-2010, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by chaikwa
Just out of curiosity, what are they asking for a 10k bumper pull dually?
10k for each axle or 10k total(two 5k axles)?
Old 04-03-2010, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by roughstock
10k for each axle or 10k total(two 5k axles)?
2, 10k axles. 20,000 gross.
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