wreedCTD

How long do the 3rd gen front end parts typically last? Stock tires, or slightly bigger, like my 305s i just put on.

My suburban has 160K on it and all i have done is change the idler and pitman arm.

Wondering about these trucks...

wreedCTD

i guess everyone is driving home. LOL

goodeyesniper75

I Had New Ball Joints At 18,000 And Ujoints At 25,000

tomm

I'll take grief for this but my service invoice always includes chassis lube with oil change. $39 with coupon.

I'm at 35000 with no shimmy or abnormal tire wear. I've had one alignment for hopping a curb and they reported no abnormal movement in the components.


I run my tires at the recommended 45 psi so maybe that helps.

wreedCTD

That was my next question. I plan on doing all my own oil, filter, fuel filter changes. What do i need to lube on the truck?

From what i understand most of the stuff under there is sealed and does not need to be greased, am i thinking correct?

Raspy

Partly correct. It is sealed and it DOES need to be greased. Just not designed to be greased. Oh well. I've got 104,000 miles now with no replacements yet, but I think the ball joints are beyond specs.

Wetspirit

wreedCTD

How do you check for wear?

Raspy

For the ball joints support the front axle on stands with the wheels a few inches off the ground. Then pry the wheels up with a 2X4 and try to measure how far they move. Can't remember the specs but mine move about 3/16" or 1/4".

For the tie rod ends you can have someone move the steering wheel back and forth, engine off, while you are under the truck looking for play. Just move the steering wheel enough to take up the play. Rock it back and forth. Look for a torn seal, leaking grease, and most important, play in the ball.

Wetspirit

Capt'n Ron

They don't last as long as you would think they should for a truck that cost as much it does. I replaced my axle U-joints at 55000, upper and lower ball joints at 70000, drive shaft u-joints at 75000, steering linkage ball joints at 82000 and now a passenger side wheel bearinhg at 85000. Dealer covered upper and lower ball joints at $200 and since they forgot one of the four bolts on the hub assembly they are covering the wheel bearing parts and labor

wreedCTD

are there better parts that last longer?

wreedCTD

anyone know how to "lubricate the front drive shaft fitting"

wreedCTD

also how to lubricate the outer tierods. what is what my book says to do. i assume everything else is closed to my lubbing.

AZGator

05 CC 4X4 295-17 Nitto Terra Grapplers 79,000 Arizona miles Back and forth to Flagstaff and in the desert
still no problems. Serviced every 7,500 mi.

JohnInNH

http://www.thepowershop.com/index.ph...ourselfabadday

I have a Free Spin kit on order... Knowing I can do bearings at $70 vs $700 a side makes me feel better... Also the MPG benefit.

With a dummy differential (no ring gear) and not spinning my front drive shaft my MPG went up from 19.5-20 to 22.3 last tank hand calculated. I'm still spinning the axels ....

I had chipped a tooth in the ring gear and while the new ring and pinion are on order I had my e-locker out and am now sorta a 2 wheel drive truck. Once I felt how smooth and the better MPG I looked into the free spin hubs (Dynatrac + EMS)

The more I read .. the more I knew this was the right thing to do. Since I have to pull the axles anyway to put back in the e-locker I might as well do the hubs too.

I can not believe the difference.... a 15% increase in MPG. About $48 in fuel savings every 2500 miles. 3 year pay off... Not having a Unit Bearing Hub repair bill is the gravy!

wreedCTD

also how to lubricate the outer tierods. that is what my book says to do. i assume everything else is closed to my lubbing.