Lift pump, filter mounted to in-tank procedure
05-30-2008, 11:58 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Lift pump, filter mounted to in-tank procedure
I just had the "pleasure" of swapping out my filter housing mounted lift pump for the in-tank one. My truck is a 2004.5 and had 110,150 miles on it when it finally died. The truck hiccupped one time on the way to work in the morning, lost power for about two seconds, then took off like nothing happened. Then at lunchtime on the way back to work it just quit altogether. Fortunately, I was able to get it pulled to the parking lot. I had a hunch that it was the lift pump. While trying to diagnose the problem I did the 3 key switch trick and came up with the P0628 code. I also bumped the starter and tried to listen for the hum from the filter mounted lift pump. Of course there was no sound. I looked up the code on the internet, and of course it came back “Low voltage at the lift pump” and scores of the same story from other victims. Fortunately, I was able to locate a new in-tank pump locally. I have come up with some suggestions when having to deal with the procedure as directed by Dodge.
1. Drive the truck up on ramps if you have a 2wd model, or jack it up and set on jack stands (for added room under the truck), set parking brake, etc.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cables.
3. Use a fuel line tool and disconnect the fuel line from the filter mounted lift pump.
4. Disconnect the electrical plug from that powers the lift pump. Note: you must slide the red tab over, then push down on the black tab and pull to be able to remove the plug.
5. Use a metric (forget what size) allen wrench and remove the four socket head cap screws that hold the lift pump to the filter housing.
6. Remove the old lift pump. Note: be sure to remove the old o-ring from the housing. Also note that you will spill some fuel at this point.
7. Clean up the filter housing and install the new adapter plate, new o-ring, and tube adapter with the washers and banjo bolt. Then attach the new fuel line to the adapter tube and the original fuel line down by the frame rail.
8. Now you can start working on the fuel tank. Note: If you have an empty tank, you can remove the tank fairly easily. If you are like me, you’ll probably have at least a half-full or full tank and will have to make up your mind if you want to tackle the next steps or find a way to lower or empty and lower your fuel tank to swap out the module. I have heard that the fuel tank will flop or cave in if you are not careful. For those that don’t want to remove the fuel tank, and want to lift the bed to gain access, continue on with the next steps.
9. Open your tailgate and use a hex torque tip screw driver (I forget what size) and remove the two screws on each tail light. Pull on the lens assembly to pop the anchors out of their holes. Then unplug the wiring by sliding the red tab, then pushing down on the black tab and pull.
10. Run the plug and wires back down through the hole and under the bed.
11. Get an 18 mm socket with extensions and remove the 6 bolts that hold the bed to the frame. Note: there are two bolts in the front of the bed, and four in the back.
12. Get a 10 mm wrench or socket and remove the grounding strap from the front right corner under the bed.
13. Get a screwdriver or nut driver and loosen the fill hose and vent hose clamps from the pipes near the fuel tank fill hole.
14. Get a hydraulic jack or use the spare tire screw jack to raise the bed. I placed the jack on top of the leaf spring and pushed up on the bottom lip of the bed. If you have a lot of weight in the bed you may wind up bending the sheet metal a little bit if you are not careful.
15. Find some wood to shim up the bed between the frame and the bottom of the bed. I used 4x4 wood that was about 16” long. Be sure to lift up and shim the bed equally on both sides of the truck. Once the bed is up at least 8” or higher, you will be able to access the tank module. Note: you can also lift the bed by using an overhead hoist if you have one. Be sure to lift the bed equally and use the bed tie down anchors for lifting points.
16. Once you have the bed high enough, you will need to clean the top of the fuel tank, and disconnect the electrical plug in on the module, still sliding the red tab and pushing down on the black tab then pulling to separate.
17. Disconnect the two fuel lines. These do not require special tools. They will have two little plastic tabs, one on each side of the fuel line. Squeeze the two tabs together, then pull on the fuel line. They should come off fairly easily. If they don’t you don’t have both tabs squeezed far enough.
18. Loosen the plastic locknut that goes around the tank module. Note: You do not need the special tool 6856 for this. You can use a large flat tipped screwdriver, and tap the nut loose (righty tighty, lefty loosy).
19. Once the locknut is free, you can remove the old tank module. Be sure to tilt and turn it to be able to get the float out. You will spill some fuel at this point.
20. Remove the rubber seal if it remained on the tank lip. Clean the tank as needed, making sure not to contaminate the fuel.
21. Install the new rubber seal into the tank lip.
22. Install the new lift pump module assembly. Make sure that the rubber seal fits correctly.
23. Place the locknut on top of the new module. Squeeze or push the module down to collapse the springs enough to be able to start the threads on the locknut. This may take a few tries.
24. Once the locknut has started and is not cross-threaded, tighten the locknut by hand. Then you can use the flat tipped screwdriver and tap the nut tight. Be sure that the new module is lined up straight so that the fuel lines will fit and the in-tank float does not hit the side walls of the tank.
25. Remove the two tabbed locking tabs from the original tank module, clean them, and the install them onto the new lift pump in-tank module male ends.
26. Connect the fuel lines onto the new lift pump module.
27. Connect the electrical plug and lock the red tab.
28. Lower the bed in reverse steps of raising it.
29. Connect the fill and vent hoses back onto their respective pipes. Tighten the hose clamps.
30. Install the 6 bolts that hold the bed down. You may want to try to align the bed so that the holes are centered before installing the bolts. Once all six bolts are started, and the bed is centered, then tighten the bolts.
31. Push the tail light wires back up the holes and install the tail lights.
32. Re-attach the grounding cable at the bottom front right side of the bed.
33. The bed should be complete at this point.
34. Start working on wiring up the new pump with the supplied wiring harness.
35. To start, remove the driver’s side plastic wheel well. Note: You don’t have to remove the tire and wheel to do this.
36. Crawl under the truck and attach the two wire power cable to the original plug in near the filter housing.
37. Go up to the engine compartment top side, and pull the wiring harness up toward the driver’s side fender, making sure that the wires have a clean shot or best route to the fender.
38. Attach the eyelet power wire with the inline fuse to the positive battery cable.
39. Run the pin connector down the back side of the fender well, going the same route as the large plastic wire loom. Follow this loom down to where the firewall meets the floorboard down by the corner of the door.
40. You will see two wire connections at this point. One has about 8 wires, the other has about 12 but can handle up to 14.
41. Unplug the larger connection. You will see the metal pin connections inside the plug, two rows of 7 holes. Pull the gray plug that is on the outside of the connection, that is the 5th one in the row. This one of course will be empty and you will not see the metal female connection in the plug (Note there are two holes that don’t have the metal female connection. Use the one that is 5th from the side). Push the pin connector into the back side of the plug until it clicks and locks in place. Note: it only locks in place in one direction. Make sure it locks into place before plugging it back together.
42. Plug the connection back together.
43. Use zip ties to hold the wiring harness in place.
44. Re-install the plastic fender well.
45. Make sure that the fuel drain is closed on the filter canister.
46. Re-install the battery cables onto the batteries.
47. Turn the key on, and bump the starter.
48. Go down next to the driver’s side rear tire, and listen for the hum from the new in-tank lift pump module. It should hum for about 15 to 20 seconds and then cut off.
49. If it is working, wait for the pump to go off, then turn the key off and bump the starter again. Continue this for 3 or 4 times to prime the fuel filter canister.
50. Try to start the engine. It may take a few tries. Once it is running, it may sputter or run a little rough, but it needs to purge the air out of the injector lines.
51. Congratulations, you have just replaced your lift pump.
Dodge claims that all trucks that have the filter housing mounted pump (at least my 2004.5 model) can only be fitted with the new in-tank pump. You can buy an aftermarket filter/pump combo from Glacier, Walbro, Fass, etc. I also found after the swap that some filter housing mounted pumps can still be bought off of E-bay for around $225. My cost from Dodge for the OEM new pump was $310 + tax. Hope this helps some of you out there.
Tacohat
1. Drive the truck up on ramps if you have a 2wd model, or jack it up and set on jack stands (for added room under the truck), set parking brake, etc.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cables.
3. Use a fuel line tool and disconnect the fuel line from the filter mounted lift pump.
4. Disconnect the electrical plug from that powers the lift pump. Note: you must slide the red tab over, then push down on the black tab and pull to be able to remove the plug.
5. Use a metric (forget what size) allen wrench and remove the four socket head cap screws that hold the lift pump to the filter housing.
6. Remove the old lift pump. Note: be sure to remove the old o-ring from the housing. Also note that you will spill some fuel at this point.
7. Clean up the filter housing and install the new adapter plate, new o-ring, and tube adapter with the washers and banjo bolt. Then attach the new fuel line to the adapter tube and the original fuel line down by the frame rail.
8. Now you can start working on the fuel tank. Note: If you have an empty tank, you can remove the tank fairly easily. If you are like me, you’ll probably have at least a half-full or full tank and will have to make up your mind if you want to tackle the next steps or find a way to lower or empty and lower your fuel tank to swap out the module. I have heard that the fuel tank will flop or cave in if you are not careful. For those that don’t want to remove the fuel tank, and want to lift the bed to gain access, continue on with the next steps.
9. Open your tailgate and use a hex torque tip screw driver (I forget what size) and remove the two screws on each tail light. Pull on the lens assembly to pop the anchors out of their holes. Then unplug the wiring by sliding the red tab, then pushing down on the black tab and pull.
10. Run the plug and wires back down through the hole and under the bed.
11. Get an 18 mm socket with extensions and remove the 6 bolts that hold the bed to the frame. Note: there are two bolts in the front of the bed, and four in the back.
12. Get a 10 mm wrench or socket and remove the grounding strap from the front right corner under the bed.
13. Get a screwdriver or nut driver and loosen the fill hose and vent hose clamps from the pipes near the fuel tank fill hole.
14. Get a hydraulic jack or use the spare tire screw jack to raise the bed. I placed the jack on top of the leaf spring and pushed up on the bottom lip of the bed. If you have a lot of weight in the bed you may wind up bending the sheet metal a little bit if you are not careful.
15. Find some wood to shim up the bed between the frame and the bottom of the bed. I used 4x4 wood that was about 16” long. Be sure to lift up and shim the bed equally on both sides of the truck. Once the bed is up at least 8” or higher, you will be able to access the tank module. Note: you can also lift the bed by using an overhead hoist if you have one. Be sure to lift the bed equally and use the bed tie down anchors for lifting points.
16. Once you have the bed high enough, you will need to clean the top of the fuel tank, and disconnect the electrical plug in on the module, still sliding the red tab and pushing down on the black tab then pulling to separate.
17. Disconnect the two fuel lines. These do not require special tools. They will have two little plastic tabs, one on each side of the fuel line. Squeeze the two tabs together, then pull on the fuel line. They should come off fairly easily. If they don’t you don’t have both tabs squeezed far enough.
18. Loosen the plastic locknut that goes around the tank module. Note: You do not need the special tool 6856 for this. You can use a large flat tipped screwdriver, and tap the nut loose (righty tighty, lefty loosy).
19. Once the locknut is free, you can remove the old tank module. Be sure to tilt and turn it to be able to get the float out. You will spill some fuel at this point.
20. Remove the rubber seal if it remained on the tank lip. Clean the tank as needed, making sure not to contaminate the fuel.
21. Install the new rubber seal into the tank lip.
22. Install the new lift pump module assembly. Make sure that the rubber seal fits correctly.
23. Place the locknut on top of the new module. Squeeze or push the module down to collapse the springs enough to be able to start the threads on the locknut. This may take a few tries.
24. Once the locknut has started and is not cross-threaded, tighten the locknut by hand. Then you can use the flat tipped screwdriver and tap the nut tight. Be sure that the new module is lined up straight so that the fuel lines will fit and the in-tank float does not hit the side walls of the tank.
25. Remove the two tabbed locking tabs from the original tank module, clean them, and the install them onto the new lift pump in-tank module male ends.
26. Connect the fuel lines onto the new lift pump module.
27. Connect the electrical plug and lock the red tab.
28. Lower the bed in reverse steps of raising it.
29. Connect the fill and vent hoses back onto their respective pipes. Tighten the hose clamps.
30. Install the 6 bolts that hold the bed down. You may want to try to align the bed so that the holes are centered before installing the bolts. Once all six bolts are started, and the bed is centered, then tighten the bolts.
31. Push the tail light wires back up the holes and install the tail lights.
32. Re-attach the grounding cable at the bottom front right side of the bed.
33. The bed should be complete at this point.
34. Start working on wiring up the new pump with the supplied wiring harness.
35. To start, remove the driver’s side plastic wheel well. Note: You don’t have to remove the tire and wheel to do this.
36. Crawl under the truck and attach the two wire power cable to the original plug in near the filter housing.
37. Go up to the engine compartment top side, and pull the wiring harness up toward the driver’s side fender, making sure that the wires have a clean shot or best route to the fender.
38. Attach the eyelet power wire with the inline fuse to the positive battery cable.
39. Run the pin connector down the back side of the fender well, going the same route as the large plastic wire loom. Follow this loom down to where the firewall meets the floorboard down by the corner of the door.
40. You will see two wire connections at this point. One has about 8 wires, the other has about 12 but can handle up to 14.
41. Unplug the larger connection. You will see the metal pin connections inside the plug, two rows of 7 holes. Pull the gray plug that is on the outside of the connection, that is the 5th one in the row. This one of course will be empty and you will not see the metal female connection in the plug (Note there are two holes that don’t have the metal female connection. Use the one that is 5th from the side). Push the pin connector into the back side of the plug until it clicks and locks in place. Note: it only locks in place in one direction. Make sure it locks into place before plugging it back together.
42. Plug the connection back together.
43. Use zip ties to hold the wiring harness in place.
44. Re-install the plastic fender well.
45. Make sure that the fuel drain is closed on the filter canister.
46. Re-install the battery cables onto the batteries.
47. Turn the key on, and bump the starter.
48. Go down next to the driver’s side rear tire, and listen for the hum from the new in-tank lift pump module. It should hum for about 15 to 20 seconds and then cut off.
49. If it is working, wait for the pump to go off, then turn the key off and bump the starter again. Continue this for 3 or 4 times to prime the fuel filter canister.
50. Try to start the engine. It may take a few tries. Once it is running, it may sputter or run a little rough, but it needs to purge the air out of the injector lines.
51. Congratulations, you have just replaced your lift pump.
Dodge claims that all trucks that have the filter housing mounted pump (at least my 2004.5 model) can only be fitted with the new in-tank pump. You can buy an aftermarket filter/pump combo from Glacier, Walbro, Fass, etc. I also found after the swap that some filter housing mounted pumps can still be bought off of E-bay for around $225. My cost from Dodge for the OEM new pump was $310 + tax. Hope this helps some of you out there.
Tacohat
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Robert Lyman (02-13-2017)
05-31-2008, 05:54 PM
#2
Cummins Guru
Tacohat sounds like a lot of work to me, I do it with truck on lift and trans jack takes me 15 minutes. But I have done 100 or more of these retrofit pumps so far and have gotten time down to 30 minutes. Pays 1.9 hrs warranty a real money maker.
05-31-2008, 10:38 PM
#6
Registered User
Are you sure? I don't see why it would need it. Relay just plugs in to factory harness and uses it for a trigger. Pump gets it's power from the driver's side battery when relay is closed.
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06-02-2008, 08:35 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
The instructions say to flash the PCM. I assume that it is so the computer can monitor the voltage of the pump. I don't see how that is possible after the conversion. The unit is run off of a relay just like Spooler said. The power comes directly from the battery. I talked at length with a service manager at Dodge and he said that the CEL light would come on if the flash was not done. My truck didn't have any kind of a CEL come on afterward and is running perfectly. The only thing different is that the seat belt dinger came back on, so now I have to redo the seqence to get rid of it again. I was also told that the cost of towing, new pump, and labor to change it out by the dealer would cost up to $1400, so naturally I did it myself. Plus, not everyone has a lift and transmission type jack to do this, but everyone has at least the standard style screw jack that comes with the truck. Anyone with a few tools can do the job.
P.S.
The allen wrench size is a 5 mm, and the torqx tip size is a 25, the bed bolts are 18 mm, and the fender well screws are 10 mm, the fuel lines are 3/8" push connect, 5/16" push connect, and the two on the fuel tank don't need tools.
P.S.
The allen wrench size is a 5 mm, and the torqx tip size is a 25, the bed bolts are 18 mm, and the fender well screws are 10 mm, the fuel lines are 3/8" push connect, 5/16" push connect, and the two on the fuel tank don't need tools.
06-02-2008, 04:29 PM
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Reading this just made me feel a bit sorry for the dealer who changed my lift pump. The truck had a full tank and a full bed when it died. This is probably one time they didn't get 1.4 hours of free money from Dodge.
06-02-2008, 08:54 PM
#10
Full tank makes it just as easy as an empty one. 1/2 full = fuel slosh which if you don't have the right jack, can cause issues with the weight transfer.
12-29-2009, 11:42 AM
#11
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Awesome writeup, thanks!
Can anyone confirm if a PCM flash is really necessary?
I'm currently 400 miles from home, doing this job on my back, in the cold. I already have the new pump in the tank. Now I just have to drop the fender, take care of the wiring and hook up the fuel line.
Thanks.
Can anyone confirm if a PCM flash is really necessary?
I'm currently 400 miles from home, doing this job on my back, in the cold. I already have the new pump in the tank. Now I just have to drop the fender, take care of the wiring and hook up the fuel line.
Thanks.
12-29-2009, 11:56 AM
#12
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i measured about ten times, reread some posts, cut a hole in the bed above the pump, welded hindges on the "new lid" and a stop on the other end. Did what i had to with the pump, keep a spare under rear seat.......life is good
12-29-2009, 12:10 PM
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I have a few questions.
Do you remove the stock filter pump from under the truck? Is that why the ramps or jack up the front? Is it easier to get at from underneath?
Is the allen wrench size is a 5 mm to remove the filter pump?
Do you remove the stock filter pump from under the truck? Is that why the ramps or jack up the front? Is it easier to get at from underneath?
Is the allen wrench size is a 5 mm to remove the filter pump?
12-29-2009, 01:58 PM
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sounds like a ton of work.
i lucked out on my 2004.5 with the canister mounted lift pump. FASS makes a kit that has a billet adapter that bolts to the canister where the OEM pump was and accepts the new fuel line's -AN fitting. The pump bolts to the frame and the other line has a push-loc fitting that connects to the top of the fuel tank. Do not have to drop the tank and try to fab up a draw straw. No 1/4 tank issues either. Just slip-fit the new fuel line and you are done. awesomeness!
i lucked out on my 2004.5 with the canister mounted lift pump. FASS makes a kit that has a billet adapter that bolts to the canister where the OEM pump was and accepts the new fuel line's -AN fitting. The pump bolts to the frame and the other line has a push-loc fitting that connects to the top of the fuel tank. Do not have to drop the tank and try to fab up a draw straw. No 1/4 tank issues either. Just slip-fit the new fuel line and you are done. awesomeness!
