dfseidel

508hp 713ftlbs 103 ambient temp. Sea level. Mods in sig. On a dynojet.

Erik@LCD

Something is VERY wrong. Is that corrected? Was the truck loaded (do they have a load cell?) what was the boost when you started and at the end of the run? What temps did you see? What kind of boost do you see on the street.

I can get that out of a Smarty, intake/exhaust combo with a stock turbo and sticks, so something is up.

Dodgezilla

Yeah, torque seems mighty low for making 500hp. 3rd gens usually make about twice the tq as they do hp....

dfseidel

Hmmm. Uncorrected. Not sure if they run a load cell. I can tell you it didn't seem like it ran the same as on the street but unfortunately my boost meter was not working. Egts didn't top 1325 while I can hit 1500 on the street. Dynoliscious on the iPhone puts my expected hp around the low 700's FWIW

Brian Lent

Yeah 730-740's would be my guess. Did they brake at the beginning to try and build a little boost? I saw a truck that dynoes with us that had 150 stix, an edge hot, tow twins, and dual cp3's disappointed when he did 680ish. I would be looking for another dyno. Good luck

staarma

Was this before or after your CP3's were leaking? What kind of rail pressure and supply pressure numbers did you see while running the truck?

Erik@LCD

Bad RP would hurt a ton, but I suspect it was just an inexperienced dyno operator. Do they do a lot of diesels? Its definitely something that has taken us time to perfect.

dfseidel

I vote dyno operator and my only dyno run I've ever done. Didn't think to check rail pressure but it hasn't been low on the street with the leak. All makes sense now without full boost it will still move the roller up to redline quick but not as quick as full boost.

Don M

I would check the balance of airflow between the twins. What was the boost between stages and overall?

dfseidel

Ahem. Yeah. That is something I need to get setup. Two gauges one between the twins one after, correct? What rlshoukd I be looking for?

soulezoo

Yes you need one in the cold pipe between primary and secondary then one in the intake horn or boost bolt for total boost.

For your setup, you will be best served with a 100psi total gauge and a 60psi cold pipe gauge. You are capable of hitting about 75-80 total psi and about 40-45 in the cold pipe. Of course, everybody's setup differs, but that is a range you are capable of.

dfseidel

Hmmm... Well it looks like I may be getting 20-25psi in the cold pipe. Haven't gotten the total psi installed just yet. What is the process for tuning the setup to get the cold pipe psi up?

dfseidel

OH! And I did get my hands on a boost bolt (from DTR store) where is the best place to install it?

cbrahs

just take your intake horn off and drill and tap. no bolt needed but you already bought one.

dfseidel

I was trying to avoid having to pull the horn again... so back to the question - best location for the boost bolt?