12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Kinda stumped.

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Old 11-04-2011, 03:28 PM
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Kinda stumped.

I did a search, but did not get my exact same issue.

I have a 95 2500 auto that I bought back in may of this year. It's my first auto tranny truck. My first observation was that the TC lock was sooner than I would have liked. The OD usually engaged at 45mph with the TC locking at 47-50. I found that with more accelerator applied that TC lock would delay to around 50-55mph. I was fine with that. I also had the 46-48mph TC shutter. Took the truck to Dave's Diesel in Angola, IN and had the tranny serviced with flush, new fluids, filter and bands adjusted.

Recently I had a flat and switched from my stock 245x16s to a spare set of my previous 3rd gen of 265x17s. I noticed that the TC shutter was gone. Not sure what difference that would have made, but it was gone. The truck shifted as normal. Recently, I reinstalled the factory 16'' tires and noticed that OD and TC lock won't occur at the same speeds or throttle positions. For example: If I press lightly on the acc pedal OD and TC lock will occur as normal (45mph for OD and 47-48mph for TC), but with the pedal about half way down OD and TC lock take longer (50-53 OD and 55-60 for TC lock).

Nothing should have changed. I recently rebuilt my starter (this week) and pulled the connection on the TPS and cleaned with contact cleaner and dielectric grease. I will try drilling a hole in the TPS case and cleaning it that way.

Can someone post some pics of this procedure and possibly some better how to on Pots and rheostats to control lock up. Has anyone had this same issue?
Thanks in advance. JJuday.
Old 11-04-2011, 10:14 PM
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Pot Fix is hiding in the 1st Gen forum. Works on your truck too though.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=pot+fix

This post by infidel is the way I'd do it:

Originally Posted by infidel
Also those of you who want to add a pot and not lose the TPS. Hook some wires to the center wire on the TPS and the ground side(keep TPS connected). Run those inside to the dash. Get a 10K pot and a Diode. It is also a good idea to get a 220uf capacitor. Solder the striped end of the diode to the center post on the pot. Solder the center TPS wire to the free end on the diode. Solder the ground to one of the outside terminals on the pot. This allows you to adjust the TPS and thus lower the shift points and still have the TPS work. The diode is there to keep the voltage from getting too low at idle and throwing a code. The 220uf cap cleans up a bad TPS signal and gets soldered to the two wires from the TPS (+ pos side to the center TPS wire).
Oh ya, and if you decide to bypass your TPS completely, you can stop by your local John Deere Dealer for the correct WheatherPac Connectors and Pins. Takes a special tool to crimp those pins, but you can make it work with a regular crimping pliers.
Old 11-05-2011, 07:46 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I drove to the hay sale this morning, 4200lbs of round bales and the gooseneck weighs around 5k with no issues. Latter on in the day drove roughly 50mi round trip unloaded and had none either. Before today I would have to feather the throttle to get OD at 55mph. I'm still going to douch the TPS with contact cleaner. Thanks again.
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