td3620

should i fix my killer pin before i drive to alabama to get a load of hay.think i can do it in a day.cuz i like to leave next week.thanks

1992gen1_fan

It sure would'nt hurt to atleast check it, if it could be changed in a day why not? Would be good insurance. When I had my truck worked on a while back I told the mechanic to check mine. It was good and tight, he went ahead and put a cap over it for me.

SORTIE

for the love of God if you have a day, DO IT

it should be against the law to chance the failure of a 6BT due to a loose KDP

loctite everything that could cause a problem

let Faith (wannadiesel) know you've done it so she can add it to her list of terminated KDPs

bannerd

I would buy a new seal while you're in there... mine leaked all over. There are bolts as well that tend to get loose. I didn't take them out, just re-torqued them. Use the red loctite.

Trebor

You might be luck or you may not. Today I did the KDP in the engine I'm putting in the crew cab project. The engine was never turned up by the former elderly owner who bought the truck new. The KDP at 52,000 actual miles was at the end of the bore. It wasn't loose and I drove it back in, made a 16 gauge sheet metal tab for it, and Loctited it in. All of the case bolts under the cover were tight and got removed and also Loctited. The only loose bolt was the front right outside corner. There was a tiny gear housing gasket leak in that same corner.

td3620

what all do i have to take out of my way.the radiator mostly.or the whole front end

THEBIGBULLY

Pin didn't get me but an inner timing case bolt did.

I wouldn't stall on this job if I was in your boots.

A little labor is better than the $$$$ you will shell out for not doing it.

Good luck!!

torquefan

I always leave the radiators in and just remove the shroud. It's not too bad, but if you want the extra elbow room removing the rad will give you lots.

td3620

thank yall

Trebor

After unbolting the fan shroud take a thick piece of cardboard cut to the size of the radiator and tape it in place to act as a protection shield. It's cheaper than a replacement radiator.

#2isgreen

I'm a little intimidated go in after he kdp. What's a decent shop price to expect?

james1

Cummins Power South here in Atlanta quoted me a price of roughly $550, which includes the replacement of ALL seals. They said they will also Loctite and re-torque the timing case bolts while they're in there. The Cummins part number for the tab is 395 8017 and the price for that part is $1.21.

I argued with them that this is clearly a manufacturing defect so they should tab that pin for free, but I got nowhere. I suspect Cummins long ago made a calculated decision not to repair any pins, but rather to simply replace those motors in which the pin let loose before the 7-year 70,000 mile warranty expired. Not an impressive way to conduct business; the fact they offer a tab is evidence they know there is a problem.

#2isgreen

Ok I watchedall the you tube videos, I'm going to do this my self.

There has been debate over the kdp kits being a waste of money, I can grind a washer and buy my own loc tite.

Question is this: what parts materials do I really need to do this?

Big fender washer to customize
New timing cover gasket? Or just rtv? Both?
Wicking loc tite
Red loc tite

Beer?

Should i do the water pump while I'm in there?

bannerd

It's not to hard, 550$ is a lot of money to do it. They make a kit which comes with all the seals or you can call cummins and they can get you one. Make sure the loctite you use is torque specific (grey). I think it took me two hours to do (removed radiator and all.)

THEBIGBULLY

Don't forget the crank seal and the plastic piece to install it. I ended taking my timing cover to a shop to get it done and was amazed at how hard the mechanic had to beat the seal in. He had a seal driver and a big hammer and a jig to get the job done. NO WAY I could have done it with a hammer and a flat screwdriver!!

"I" would take out the rad. It is was easier to see and work in there without it and it gave me a good chance to have a look at all the components and give them a good clean. IE rads and intercooler and I inspected everything you can't see with all that stuff in the way.

I made my own gaskets and it was painless and saved me some coin.

If you "suspect" your water pump, change it. It beats ripping everything all apart again.

Be really careful of the wires of the crank sensor. They are brittle and can break or crack easy.

DO NOT FORGET TO LOCTITE THE INNER TIMING CASE BOLTS!!!!! Check out my thread on the devastation I ended up with.

I just printed off the sticky and it is all you need. A VERY well done format.

Have fun!!!!

Coffee for the repairs......beer for finished product.