Killed my KDP today!
03-02-2007, 09:42 PM
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Killed my KDP today!
Well, to all you guys who can do this in under 3 hours I have a great deal of respect for u, lol. Even if I had to do it for someone else tomorrow, it would still take me over 4 hours. It took me about 6 hours today.
But, to anyone out there that doesn't think they can do it, i'm about as new as it comes to wrenching on vehicles and the only thing that really gave me a headache was getting the fan/shroud out because the stupid washer fluid tank (I tried to do it without taking it out at first). Definently take the coolant AND washer fluid tank out, the top radiator hose, and u'll go pretty fast. I did it alone, I barred the damper with a solid iron bar standing vertical and wedged into one of the knotches on the damper to get that off and on, very easy. The dowel pin was out alittle bit (pic below) but i got it pretty close to flush with a few hard taps. I put the damper back on after the cover was off so I could rotate the engine to get to the two hidden case bolts. Everything else was just a matter of cleaning and little tedious stuff like cleaning the cover and gasket area, and puting it back together. I couldn't figure out how u were suppose to put the clear seal guide on, than take it off after it was on the crankshaft, but it became clear after you put it on, the clear guide gets pushed out
.
I have a question for someone who can go check there truck from under the engine. The last pic is of the bolt right by the damper (pic is looking up from under the truck, bolt is on the drivers side of damper), I was pretty sure that was how far the bolt went in, but can someone go check there truck and make sure it looks right. I made a "sweet" bolt jig so i know the bolts are all in the right spot. Felt good to get that done, thanks to TxDiesel007 and everyone who helped me get ready for it.
bolt jig
Pin
Bolt in question
But, to anyone out there that doesn't think they can do it, i'm about as new as it comes to wrenching on vehicles and the only thing that really gave me a headache was getting the fan/shroud out because the stupid washer fluid tank (I tried to do it without taking it out at first). Definently take the coolant AND washer fluid tank out, the top radiator hose, and u'll go pretty fast. I did it alone, I barred the damper with a solid iron bar standing vertical and wedged into one of the knotches on the damper to get that off and on, very easy. The dowel pin was out alittle bit (pic below) but i got it pretty close to flush with a few hard taps. I put the damper back on after the cover was off so I could rotate the engine to get to the two hidden case bolts. Everything else was just a matter of cleaning and little tedious stuff like cleaning the cover and gasket area, and puting it back together. I couldn't figure out how u were suppose to put the clear seal guide on, than take it off after it was on the crankshaft, but it became clear after you put it on, the clear guide gets pushed out
.I have a question for someone who can go check there truck from under the engine. The last pic is of the bolt right by the damper (pic is looking up from under the truck, bolt is on the drivers side of damper), I was pretty sure that was how far the bolt went in, but can someone go check there truck and make sure it looks right. I made a "sweet" bolt jig so i know the bolts are all in the right spot. Felt good to get that done, thanks to TxDiesel007 and everyone who helped me get ready for it.
bolt jig
Pin
Bolt in question
03-03-2007, 02:32 AM
#4
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Is it just me or is the timing case cover in that last pic cracked?
That bolt does not look right but I am not going to go lay under my truck in the snow and ice in the middle of the night.
That bolt does not look right but I am not going to go lay under my truck in the snow and ice in the middle of the night.
03-03-2007, 05:27 AM
#5
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the easy way to do KDP is to separate fan from fan clutch. then take a 36mm wrench to break loose.
once fan is separated and fan clutch is broken loose. everything slides right out. no hose removal required.
loads of room to work once fan blade assembly is out of the way.
once fan is separated and fan clutch is broken loose. everything slides right out. no hose removal required.
loads of room to work once fan blade assembly is out of the way.
the only thing that really gave me a headache was getting the fan/shroud out because the stupid washer fluid tank (I tried to do it without taking it out at first). Definently take the coolant AND washer fluid tank out, the top radiator hose, and u'll go pretty fast. I did it alone, I barred the damper with a solid iron bar standing vertical and wedged into one of the knotches on the damper to get that off and on, very easy. The dowel pin was out alittle bit (pic below) but i got it pretty close to flush with a few hard taps. I put the damper back on after the cover was off so I could rotate the engine to get to the two hidden case bolts. Everything else was just a matter of cleaning and little tedious stuff like cleaning the cover and gasket area, and puting it back together. I couldn't figure out how u were suppose to put the clear seal guide on, than take it off after it was on the crankshaft, but it became clear after you put it on, the clear guide gets pushed out .
I have a question for someone who can go check there truck from under the engine. The last pic is of the bolt right by the damper (pic is looking up from under the truck, bolt is on the drivers side of damper), I was pretty sure that was how far the bolt went in, but can someone go check there truck and make sure it looks right. I made a "sweet" bolt jig so i know the bolts are all in the right spot. Felt good to get that done, thanks to TxDiesel007 and everyone who helped me get ready for it.
.I have a question for someone who can go check there truck from under the engine. The last pic is of the bolt right by the damper (pic is looking up from under the truck, bolt is on the drivers side of damper), I was pretty sure that was how far the bolt went in, but can someone go check there truck and make sure it looks right. I made a "sweet" bolt jig so i know the bolts are all in the right spot. Felt good to get that done, thanks to TxDiesel007 and everyone who helped me get ready for it.
I hate leaks!
03-03-2007, 09:12 AM
#7
Registered User
Looks good man!
Glad that i can be of service to ya...
now ull sleep better at night..
Rick
2500,
left hand thread on the fan, whack it and knock it off? yup that works well, but a more conveniant tool to have and cheaper too is a ground off 10mm wrench, you can get that sucker in there, theres four bolts, remove them and the whole fan assembly comes right off...
Rick
Glad that i can be of service to ya...
now ull sleep better at night..Rick
2500,
left hand thread on the fan, whack it and knock it off? yup that works well, but a more conveniant tool to have and cheaper too is a ground off 10mm wrench, you can get that sucker in there, theres four bolts, remove them and the whole fan assembly comes right off...
Rick
Trending Topics
03-03-2007, 09:23 AM
#8
Banned
Thread Starter
yea @Gieco^, I bought a extra tube of RTV so i figured why not make sure it's sealed, lol. I only used about 2/3 of the first tube though.
the cover isn't cracked, i made sure to clean it really well and it looked good. I think the new crank seal will be worth this kit alone because I had a obvious leak around it with the old seal, there was crud all built up around it, thick.
thanks again, now I just need to start working on some extra power.
the cover isn't cracked, i made sure to clean it really well and it looked good. I think the new crank seal will be worth this kit alone because I had a obvious leak around it with the old seal, there was crud all built up around it, thick.
thanks again, now I just need to start working on some extra power.
03-03-2007, 10:36 AM
#9
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either way will work. important thing is to separate fan from fan clutch assembly. this reduces size to smaller pieces, allowing removal without taking apart cooling system.
purchased a 36mm wrench from napa for $12. a better choice is fan clutch specific flat 36mm & 32mm wrench set for $25.
once you have the 36mm wrench, breaking loose is a piece of cake.
grinding down my snap-on 10mm wrench would hurt
purchased a 36mm wrench from napa for $12. a better choice is fan clutch specific flat 36mm & 32mm wrench set for $25.
once you have the 36mm wrench, breaking loose is a piece of cake.
grinding down my snap-on 10mm wrench would hurt
2500, left hand thread on the fan, whack it and knock it off? yup that works well, but a more conveniant tool to have and cheaper too is a ground off 10mm wrench, you can get that sucker in there, theres four bolts, remove them and the whole fan assembly comes right off...
Rick
Rick
03-03-2007, 12:28 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
I think it's easier to take the top radiator hose off than take apart the fan. The hose is just two clamps and your clear to pull the fan out. The TST kit said you don't need to remove the windshield fluid tank, thats what really held me up until I just took it out.
No oil leaks after a good drive yesterday and today, which is good.
No oil leaks after a good drive yesterday and today, which is good.
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