KDP done.
11-22-2006, 09:46 AM
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KDP done.
I have done the KDP and it seems there is no oil leaks that resulted.I ended up taking out the top radiator hose wich made it easyer taking out the fan out.The old gasket came off very easy leaving almost none debris stuck .
The dowel pin was sticking out by about 1/8 of an inch but the amount of resistance it offered to drive it in all way back inside the hole made me thinking that very possibly it was driven where it was originally....I used a smaller in diameter socket at the end of a short 2 inches extension and it needed a few good blows of a 5 pounds short hammer to drive it in..but who relly knows what happen in there with long time and heath combined to vibrations!Anyway I've used red locktite on the bolt threads and torqued it to 18 ft-pounds using a tab I've made.
I have thightened the other 5 bolts holding the timing case to the block.To do this I used the small torque wrench that was set at 18 ft-pounds and they all cracked loose way beyond this setting..now I don't know if it is normal for a bolt that is torqued at its right torque to loosen up at lesser pressure..this could be but they all came loose very easily and I am very satisfied of having retorqued all with locktite this time. The two behind the cam gear offer a strick minimum clearance when alligned with one of the three holes into the cam gear..I had to get the small 10 mm socket a little crooked onto the bolts heads to torque.
I have used a new gasket onto the cover (no RV or silicone mess!)...I used some permatex spray gasket compound to stick the gasket onto the cover itself taking care to align it good with the bolts holes.
Considering everything I would say taking out the fan was the toughest part...better to make all room around and I ended up putting gloves as the blades get "uncomfortable" after a while.
thanks,Ron.
The dowel pin was sticking out by about 1/8 of an inch but the amount of resistance it offered to drive it in all way back inside the hole made me thinking that very possibly it was driven where it was originally....I used a smaller in diameter socket at the end of a short 2 inches extension and it needed a few good blows of a 5 pounds short hammer to drive it in..but who relly knows what happen in there with long time and heath combined to vibrations!Anyway I've used red locktite on the bolt threads and torqued it to 18 ft-pounds using a tab I've made.
I have thightened the other 5 bolts holding the timing case to the block.To do this I used the small torque wrench that was set at 18 ft-pounds and they all cracked loose way beyond this setting..now I don't know if it is normal for a bolt that is torqued at its right torque to loosen up at lesser pressure..this could be but they all came loose very easily and I am very satisfied of having retorqued all with locktite this time. The two behind the cam gear offer a strick minimum clearance when alligned with one of the three holes into the cam gear..I had to get the small 10 mm socket a little crooked onto the bolts heads to torque.
I have used a new gasket onto the cover (no RV or silicone mess!)...I used some permatex spray gasket compound to stick the gasket onto the cover itself taking care to align it good with the bolts holes.
Considering everything I would say taking out the fan was the toughest part...better to make all room around and I ended up putting gloves as the blades get "uncomfortable" after a while.
thanks,Ron.
11-22-2006, 09:55 AM
#2
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I have done the KDP and it seems there is no oil leaks that resulted.I ended up taking out the top radiator hose wich made it easyer taking out the fan out.The old gasket came off very easy leaving almost none debris stuck .
The dowel pin was sticking out by about 1/8 of an inch but the amount of resistance it offered to drive it in all way back inside the hole made me thinking that very possibly it was driven where it was originally....I used a smaller in diameter socket at the end of a short 2 inches extension and it needed a few good blows of a 5 pounds short hammer to drive it in..but who relly knows what happen in there with long time and heath combined to vibrations!Anyway I've used red locktite on the bolt threads and torqued it to 18 ft-pounds using a tab I've made.
I have thightened the other 5 bolts holding the timing case to the block.To do this I used the small torque wrench that was set at 18 ft-pounds and they all cracked loose way beyond this setting..now I don't know if it is normal for a bolt that is torqued at its right torque to loosen up at lesser pressure..this could be but they all came loose very easily and I am very satisfied of having retorqued all with locktite this time. The two behind the cam gear offer a strick minimum clearance when alligned with one of the three holes into the cam gear..I had to get the small 10 mm socket a little crooked onto the bolts heads to torque.
I have used a new gasket onto the cover (no RV or silicone mess!)...I used some permatex spray gasket compound to stick the gasket onto the cover itself taking care to align it good with the bolts holes.
Considering everything I would say taking out the fan was the toughest part...better to make all room around and I ended up putting gloves as the blades get "uncomfortable" after a while.
thanks,Ron.
The dowel pin was sticking out by about 1/8 of an inch but the amount of resistance it offered to drive it in all way back inside the hole made me thinking that very possibly it was driven where it was originally....I used a smaller in diameter socket at the end of a short 2 inches extension and it needed a few good blows of a 5 pounds short hammer to drive it in..but who relly knows what happen in there with long time and heath combined to vibrations!Anyway I've used red locktite on the bolt threads and torqued it to 18 ft-pounds using a tab I've made.
I have thightened the other 5 bolts holding the timing case to the block.To do this I used the small torque wrench that was set at 18 ft-pounds and they all cracked loose way beyond this setting..now I don't know if it is normal for a bolt that is torqued at its right torque to loosen up at lesser pressure..this could be but they all came loose very easily and I am very satisfied of having retorqued all with locktite this time. The two behind the cam gear offer a strick minimum clearance when alligned with one of the three holes into the cam gear..I had to get the small 10 mm socket a little crooked onto the bolts heads to torque.
I have used a new gasket onto the cover (no RV or silicone mess!)...I used some permatex spray gasket compound to stick the gasket onto the cover itself taking care to align it good with the bolts holes.
Considering everything I would say taking out the fan was the toughest part...better to make all room around and I ended up putting gloves as the blades get "uncomfortable" after a while.
thanks,Ron.
Now you can sleep better at night knowing that the KDP is no longer a threat...
Rick
11-22-2006, 01:15 PM
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but the chances are usually slim, I do know of a 380K mile truck that is still running with the KDP as a potential threat.. not good i know...
Not many people know about this or even suspect it till the damage has already been done. Besides, better safe than sorry, and its a good way to retorque and Re RTV the timing cover and get everything right..Rick
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12-27-2006, 05:02 PM
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Killer Dowell Pin. It is an allignment pin in the timing case that can back out and fall into the timing gears, destroying the timing case.
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=64
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=64
12-27-2006, 11:03 PM
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12-28-2006, 10:44 AM
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12-28-2006, 08:38 PM
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02-26-2007, 04:35 PM
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I'm a newbie, and hope i do this right.
When i bought my '96 a few years ago at 187k, the salesman looked at something on a 'puter and told me that 'it had a new starter at 100-and-something thousand miles.'
Any idea what he was looking at? Might it tell me if the KDP has been done? Going back to the salesman is not an option. It'd bite doing all that work and finding the job completed.
Thanks
When i bought my '96 a few years ago at 187k, the salesman looked at something on a 'puter and told me that 'it had a new starter at 100-and-something thousand miles.'
Any idea what he was looking at? Might it tell me if the KDP has been done? Going back to the salesman is not an option. It'd bite doing all that work and finding the job completed.
Thanks