KDP and a speedy sleeve
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KDP and a speedy sleeve
I pulled the timing cover and the kdp is still there but there is no fix on it. The pin is prootruding from the case about 1/16th an inch and I smacked it with a hammer and screwdriver but it didn't want to go back into the case. Is this normal? Also, the crankshaft seal was improperly installed by a local shop and the outer flange of the seal was seperated from the rest of the seal and had obviously caused a bad oil leak and also slightly mared up the crank seal face. Who has a speedy sleeve for a 5.9 12v? One more thing, do I need to pull all of the inside case bolts and loctite them?
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You can get a sleeve and oversize seal kit at Cummins. The last one I bought was 110$ I believe. There is a special tool that makes things a lot easier as it pushes the sleeve and seal on at the same time and sets the depth correctly. This is also available at Cummins.
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Yes u need oversize seal. As far as the pin not going in, I've never seen one that I couldn't tap back in. Maybe someone else has had that, but it's a new one on me. By the way, when you buy the sleeve, it comes with the correct size seal. As for the installation tool, what cummins did for me was charge me for the tool, then hen I brought it back, they gave me my money back.
#5
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Try www.rockauto.com
TIMKEN Part # KWK99248
Kwik Sleeve, Optional Repair; Front
Its under $30.00
Or
Give that part# to any parts store and they can get it. The rear seal is the $100+ one.
TIMKEN Part # KWK99248
Kwik Sleeve, Optional Repair; Front
Its under $30.00
Or
Give that part# to any parts store and they can get it. The rear seal is the $100+ one.
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Wish I woulda known bout a cheaper one when I did mine! I streched the rear sleeve and had to do it TWICE! front one went perfect though.
#7
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About your concerns with the pin. When I tabbed the dowel pin on my '95, I could not get the pin flush with the case. I used a heavy hammer and a short drift but the pin felt as though it was bottomed into the bore. The tab was slightly bent when installed but it was still flat where the bolt made contact and it torqued properly. Even though the tab is bent slightly, it still has the pin captured so I did not get too concerned.
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About your concerns with the pin. When I tabbed the dowel pin on my '95, I could not get the pin flush with the case. I used a heavy hammer and a short drift but the pin felt as though it was bottomed into the bore. The tab was slightly bent when installed but it was still flat where the bolt made contact and it torqued properly. Even though the tab is bent slightly, it still has the pin captured so I did not get too concerned.
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I doubt that the case has moved being as that would say that the dowel pin only goes into the block 1/16th of an inch. So do I need an oversized seal and if so do they sell it with a kit like the standard one? I ordered my kit today will be in tomorrow but if I can get a kit with a speedy sleeve that would be better. As for the tool, the nearest cummins dealer is 70 miles away or more. any suggestions on how to do a makeshift tool? Whats the expensive rear seal?
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I'll research some more tomorrow because I found a few redi sleaves that were just that- a sleave. I doubt that you could buy just a sleave if it wouldn't work and on top of that, all of the seals that I found were interchangrable, noone offered a special speedy sleave seal w/ a bigger ID and on top of that the sleaves are .003 of an inch thick. I bet that the end of the cranks have that much runout in them or on the tin timing cover has that much flex in it. A lot of guys say that a sleeve is better anyway because it wont wear out the sealing surface and gives a tighter seal. I think I'll try it if I can find a sleave. Worst is I'll have to change the seal. If I do it in the morning when the crank is cold (been getting below zero here at night) and heat the sleave slightly, I bet I don't even need a tool.
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