Installing Fuel Gauge
#1
Installing Fuel Gauge
What is the best way to install the fuel gauge on an 01 3500. I am using the POD thing on the pillar. Should I get a mechanical gauge or electric, is Auto Meter good or is there a better one. Also, where do I need to put the gauge in the fuel stream, someone said on the VP, if so where does it go and how does it connect? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
You're going to want to tap into the schrader valve on the line between the fuel filter and the VP. I think Auto meter is very high quality and will do just fine. You'll hear conflicting view points on the pros and cons of mechanical versus electrical and using an isolator versus straight mechanical. I use a mechanical gauge in series with an isolator. Works just fine. Alot of guys bad mouth the isolators but I'm convinced it's because most folks haven't figured out the importance of getting enough 50/50 anti-freeze mix in the line and keeping it there. I run an ISSPRO gauge purchased through Vulcan Performance and they set you up with everything you need for the install. Hope this helps...good luck.
#3
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I basically have the same question. Which is better electric or mechanical? The electric ones seem a lot cheaper. The mechanical one that i like is almost 200 bucks.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....RI_FPG_30_OPBL
the electric ones can be had for under 100. whats the scoop here?
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....RI_FPG_30_OPBL
the electric ones can be had for under 100. whats the scoop here?
#4
....again, everyone will have there own opinion. But, in my view, there is no comparison between a mechanical setup and one using a sending unit. Mechanical units are more accurate, and more durable over time than any electrical sending unit style.
#5
Thanks for the replies. Do I need a special fitting for the connection at the schrader valve and if so where can I get it? Also, do the isolaters come with the anti-freeze mix in them or is there a set-up procedure involved and future maintenance issues? Some say to go braided line all the way into the cab, is this safe, any pros and cons?
Thanks
Thanks
#6
direct read mechanical, cheaper, more reliable, less things to go wrong.
1/8 inch copper line, into cab, no problem, it's diesel not gas...
Short flex fuel line to firewall, than 1/8 copper to fuel pressure gage
1/8 inch copper line, into cab, no problem, it's diesel not gas...
Short flex fuel line to firewall, than 1/8 copper to fuel pressure gage
#7
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I've no history with the mechanical but my remote sensor has been on my truck for 5 years with no problems. It has always read within 1lb of my mechanical test guage.
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#8
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I am in the middle of installing the line to the isolater. Should the isolater and line going to the gauge be filled completely with anti-freeze? The destructions that came with kit from diesel manor said to only fill the isolater. I've heard to push the diaphram all the way down and then fill it. What is the way yall have done this? Another question is they sent me a white face fuel pres. gauge and I am waiting on the right one to get here. Can i hook it up and run it with only anti-freeze in the diaphram with no worries of returning the gauge? Any input would be helpful. Thanks, Vern.
#11
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i ran the fuel into the cab and it works fine. Keeping isolator problems in the future out of the question. Also going through vulcan is the cheapest route but the lines and fittings are easy to break so be care full with over tightening and kinked lines.
#12
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Can you hook up the isolater to the pump without having the gauge hooked to the isolater? Also, should I fill the isolater and tubing with antifreeze or just the isolater?
#13
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ok so i have been reading about installin my guages i just received the other day and what is this isolater thing? hows it work? i dont get all this stuff yet still a newb.
thanks
thanks
#14
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You don't want to hook the isolator up without the gauge. Not sure why you would want to do that anyway. I fill the isolator and line and get as much air out of both as I can. Also make sure the diaphragm inside the isolator is all the way to the diesel side.
#15
Seems to me that there is not to much advice on 'Isolators' cause
most have found them to be a 'pain'
May want to re consider the install...
Remember, Diesel is not Gas, Not a real concern in cab, especially with
a small 1/8 line and a restrictor...
Please. I am trying to be constructive, no way a flame.
Note;
I try not to 'build in' problems ; the fuel system has enough of them
designed in from the factory...
most have found them to be a 'pain'
May want to re consider the install...
Remember, Diesel is not Gas, Not a real concern in cab, especially with
a small 1/8 line and a restrictor...
Please. I am trying to be constructive, no way a flame.
Note;
I try not to 'build in' problems ; the fuel system has enough of them
designed in from the factory...