TAS05CTD610

Well I finally put the tranny probe where it should be, the hot line coming outa the trans. I thought about both, the pan is cooler and that's the temp of the fluid going into the trans, and then the hot line which is the temp coming out. I figured that since fluid can cook, if you get the fluid to come out at a certain temp, you can tell if it needs to be replaced, where the cooler pan you know what it's been cooled to.

Anyway, since I didn't have the money to buy a mass diesel line or anything fancy, I fabed up one using a double (memory going forget the name) T fitting on it. I just cut one inch outa that hot line and put the t fitting on there. I was going to use brass but knowing that line see's a lot of pressure went with a plated steel unit (used for hydrolic cylinders)

I will try and get some pictures tomorrow as well as check all my connections. I'm going to check it after a good run Monday and see if I got's myself any leaks. I'm crossing my fingers for sure. Anyways if anybody has any ideas or helpful hints, I'd deffinatly appreciate them.

If you want the part number to use, or price, or where to get it, PM me. it was a lot cheeper though.

Badd Dogg Guy19

I'm going to be ordering a triple gauge set soon, and I was wondering the best way to mount the trans probe without removing the pan, or hurting my wallet either. Let me know when you have the pics of your fittings, I would like to see what you did, hope your leak free!!

N.Johnson

I've been thinking about changing my present probe location, from the test port ( 1-4 Gear pressure) which in all reality just monitors the temperature of the transmission housing metal to the cooler out line. I agree that once a trans fluid has seen the max temp the damage is done to the fluid even though it is leaving the tranny to be cooled and not taken in the workings. The max with a 7500# TT I,ve seen is 195F pushing it hard and heavy traffic by the way. What I had in mind was to cut the hard line which looks like 1/2" and add a swagelock stainless steel compression fitting. I have a couple around but they are three way and I was thinking of cutting off the the branch tee and tig welding a 1/8" npt. Does this sound possible? Has anyone put a micrometer on the out line? I would prefer not to cut the rubber section and add a tee because in my experience on the tools they always leak down the road. As far as compresssion fittings go I've installed and used them on very high 3000 psi plus pressure applications. However they are stationary systems and not located a foot from the blacktop with a 359 cu in. diesel vibrating the works! Tell ya what guys I get my mic and see what size that out line OD is. I hope it's not french as I hate metric!

TAS05CTD610

Will make an attempt to take pictures today. Forcast says rain, with possible snow, oh boy oh boy.

The output line at that location is .495. It's 5 thousands shy of being 1/2" o.d. The problem I had is they stamp numbers into the line which causes the line to rase and I had to file these to make it a bit easyier to work on. After that mine worked (slid on) fine. I used a steel double swage lock (so it has 2 compresion rings, the V-notch type. I believe it's anodized gold or something, it's really nice (didn't want to use brass, wanted something stronger). It was only 21 bucks outa McMaster and they sent it out like overnight, or 2nd day air and there was no shipping charge. i haven't had a leak yet, and I also painted two dot's on the fitting so I can tell if it loosens up or anything. So far almost a month and no leaks. I check weekly for leaks, but now I'm up to once a month or so. Also if you mark the fitting, you can tell if it loosen's just by the dots that are on there.

Also if you have gauges you will notice your tranny probe will work much more like your EGT's. you can watch it go up to 195 and then back down to 120 on the highway in a min or less. It reacts much more than in the pan, or test ports. I do think this is the good location because no matter what the pan temp is, if the fluid comes out too hot, you've already ruined it, no matter if it cools off or not. If it's comming out at 300 and the pan is 250, you think oh I'm safe, when the fluid is done at that temp.

I'll do my best to get pictures guys. I've tried posting pictures in a post, but still have been unsucessful. I'll try

TAS05CTD610

Also the t fitting I bought has 1/2" swagelock fittings on both sides, then the stem, or the T part has a 3/8" NPT female fitting. I just put a 3/8" to 1/8" adapter in there, and waloa, it fits good, and the temp sender dosn't poke into the flow path too much.

Like I said I'll get pictures and part numbers tonight.

americanrider

sez ya can figure out an engines running condition simply by watching 'pressures out & temps in' to a motor. With Pressure: high=good, low=bad, with Temperature: high=bad, low=good.

Reading oil input temp tells you the operating temperature of what's being supplyed to the motor, the cooler the better of course. If the temp goes up - either slow or sharply - you'll see it, and it will do it without the spiking mentioned above.

When ya think about it, guages are just advisory. If something starts to go horribly wrong inside your motor, the damage is pretty much already done no matter where you tap in. At least that's been my experience.

Old Harley School of Mechanics

J BODY

For any of those looking to install a "T" in the rubber section of the trans line coming out of the trans that section of rubber is there to dampen vibration. You may remember a recall on the 03's shortly after they came out. It was to replace that line to an updated piece with the rubber section in it. Some trucks, especially ones that towed heavy often, would cause the heat exchanger to crack internally which would push trans fluid into the cooling system. Not sure if putting a "T" in that section of line would have any ill effects, but I'd thought I'd throw this out there.

N.Johnson

That's an excellent point you made and that's why I'm staying away from the rubber. Looking at the heat exchanger at the block I figure that hard line will easily support a couple of ounces a swagelock tee weighs. TAS05CTD610 been running this mode for a while with no leeks. Awaiting that part number for the fitting buddy so I don't have to weld the one I got, sounds great!

TAS05CTD610

Well I'm gonna try this and see if it works.

Pic Of Instal


Close up of T



Parts that I used where as follows.

T- Fitting from Mcmaster #5929K146 $19.94 Each
(there is a fitting that has 1/4 or 1/8" fitting on top. It's also 10 bucks
more, so that's why I just bought the reducer. I don't have a money tree so I
try to save where I can)

3/8" to 1/8" reducer from home depot (this depends on what the thread of your
tranny probe is, mine was 1/8") Mine was $1.97

I also had to buy a small tubing cutter to cut the line. I disconected the
line from the cooler, then stuff a pipe over it (rubber heater hose pinched off
to keep fluid from draining, didn't get much out). I then cut the line about
1/2" lower than middle. Took that pipe off and cut off an inch (that's how
much you have to remove to install the t) put it back together, tightened it
once, and it hasn't leaked since. I was going to put holes in it, and race
wire it together, so it couldn't vibrate loose, but I checked it so far and in
a month, nothing moved, so I'll check it monthly. Any questions, give me a
ring, or e-mail.

Also i noted somebody said there was a piece of rubber hose to relieve vibrations and to keep the heat exchanger from cracking. Mine still has that 4" piece of rubber hose that's on there from the factory. I went with a heavy duty swage lock connecter. I also work in the industry that they use these on hydrolic lines for Cat equipment, Dozers, Back hoes ect. I know they vibrate more, and see higher pressures than our trucks ever will. But just my knowledge.

Tom

TAS05CTD610

Not sure why hey showed up so small. See my gallery for normal sized ones