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Illustrated CTD oil change procedure...

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Old 09-19-2005, 02:22 PM
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Illustrated CTD oil change procedure...

Now that would be great for people with my limited mechanical experience.

Anyone want to put one up? With picts?

I'd donate $10.00 to DTR for it.

Also, I'm putting about 15k miles per year on my truck and will be on the 15,000 mile oil change schedule from now on.

Now, are you suppose to change every 15,000 miles or every 6 months, which ever comes first?

Or can you go 12 months before changing the oil as long as you don't exceed 15,000 miles.

Anyone know?

Thanks,

DT.
Old 09-19-2005, 04:50 PM
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I change mine every 5,000 miles...in my opinion 15,000 is way too much
Old 09-19-2005, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by justcampin
I change mine every 5,000 miles...in my opinion 15,000 is way too much
I agree. Every 5K, 15K is too long.
Old 09-19-2005, 04:57 PM
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If you tow, idle extensively, or don't allow the truck to warm up before shuting down then change every 7,500 miles if none of the above then it's o.k. to go until 15,000 this according to owners manual.

I personally will not go over 7,500 no matter how I drive it.

It's o.k. to run the oil for 12 months but I would change the filter every 6 months and add one quart of oil to make up for the oil lost in changing the filter.
Old 09-28-2005, 02:39 PM
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You don't need pics., just lay on the ground, and look up at the oil filter, and get a a filter remover socket like thingy, and a ratchet, and loosen the filter and remove, next use the same 3/8 ratchet, and loosen the drain plug, and remove it.Next I'd fill your new filter before screwing it back on, but make sure not to get crap in the new filter because that will go straight into the bearings, and just screw it on until it touches the filter surface, and tighten 3/4 turn.You should of started with 3 gallons of oil before filling the filter, now just pour the rest of the other jugs in the engine, BUT leave about 1/4 of a gallon in a jug , until the oil has had time to run into the pan, and use the last 1/4 to get it right on the stick.

PS before you start, warm the engine to 140, on the temp., do n't get it too hot though.
Old 09-28-2005, 03:10 PM
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From the looks of things, we do not want to leave anything out, please after you have let the oil drain, put the plug back in the oil pan. Then put on the filter, then proceed to put the new oil in. You put the oil in on the top of the engine. There is a cap there that you remove, and pour the oil in. It says ENGINE OIL on it. Have fun, wear old clothes that mean nothing the first time you do this. haha
Old 09-29-2005, 11:42 AM
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Or, get your own oil and filter and take it to Dodge and let them do the labor and top off the fluids for 9 bucks in labor. That's what us lazy people do.
Old 09-29-2005, 12:07 PM
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Thumbs up

Thanks for the procs guys.

Does anyone sell a drain pan specifically for this? Maybe one with high sides so as to not splash all over one's driveway?

Does a full 3 gallons drain out?

Also, what do you guys do with the spent oil?

Thanks again, next time will be my first.

DT.
Old 09-29-2005, 02:12 PM
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You guys forgot to add the fumoto drain valve from Genos, make life a lot easier and cleaner.
Old 09-29-2005, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 05mxdiesel
You guys forgot to add the fumoto drain valve from Genos, make life a lot easier and cleaner.
AMEN!! I put mine in yesterday, and now I can’t wait to change the oil again

Originally Posted by dieselnewbie
Thanks for the procs guys.

Does anyone sell a drain pan specifically for this? Maybe one with high sides so as to not splash all over one's driveway?

Does a full 3 gallons drain out?

Also, what do you guys do with the spent oil?

Thanks again, next time will be my first.

DT.
Get a big pan with an open top or with a large hole in the middle or the oil will over fill. There is a thread on here showing exactly what I mean. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=76947 It happened to me and lots of guys on the site that used that pan.

If it’s your first diesel oil change, you will not believe how fast and with what pressure all 3 gallons will drain out! It sure got me by surprise (reference pan post :P)

As for old oil, I just take it to Kragen auto parts. They take it for free and I guess they recycle it some how.
Old 10-04-2005, 08:52 AM
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I did mine yesterday. The Edit DEALER torqued the heck out of the filter and the drain bolt.. I took a hamer hitting the ratchet to get them loose.. I always just slighty snug these items...
Old 10-04-2005, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by falcondan9570
I did mine yesterday. The DAMNED DEALER torqued the heck out of the filter and the drain bolt.. I took a hamer hitting the ratchet to get them loose.. I always just slighty snug these items...
FYI - (you probably know this already but some may not), I believe the proper torque for the oil drain plug is 35 ft.*lbs.

As for the filter, to tighen it properly it will generally require 3/4 to one-full-turn after the filter gasket has contacted the mating surface. Remember to pre-oil the gasket with a slight oil film - I would not suggest pre-filling the filter with oil (see below, let me know if I'm way off base).

Pre-filling the oil filter will introduce resistance in the oil pump circuit at start up after an oil change. During initial start up after and oil change the oil pump and oil pick-up are dry (air in the lines), with an oil-filled filter ahead of the pump, the pump has to create a suction to draw oil into the oil pick up and at the same time has to push a volume of oil out of the pre-filled oil filter, i.e it's doing double duty with a pre-filled oil filter. Additionally the oil galleries between the oil pump and pre-filled filter will have air in them, the air in the galleries will compress due to the oil-filled filter restriction, thus this will introduce a delay in pressurizing the oil galleries - which is undesireable.

IMHO

E
Old 10-05-2005, 04:58 AM
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[ I would not suggest pre-filling the filter with oil (see below, let me know if I'm way off base).

Pre-filling the oil filter will introduce resistance in the oil pump circuit at start up after an oil change. During initial start up after and oil change the oil pump and oil pick-up are dry (air in the lines), with an oil-filled filter ahead of the pump, the pump has to create a suction to draw oil into the oil pick up and at the same time has to push a volume of oil out of the pre-filled oil filter, i.e it's doing double duty with a pre-filled oil filter. Additionally the oil galleries between the oil pump and pre-filled filter will have air in them, the air in the galleries will compress due to the oil-filled filter restriction, thus this will introduce a delay in pressurizing the oil galleries - which is undesireable.

IMHO

So what your implying is to take off your oil filter and drain it every time you start your truck??
The main reason people prefill there oil filter on a turbocharged engine is lack of oil pressure to turbo during initial start-up after oil change. That thing spins pretty darn fast, even at idle.
Old 10-05-2005, 10:57 PM
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ALWAYS pre-fill the filter. Air is not a good lubricant.
Old 10-06-2005, 03:50 AM
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I run Rosmella synthetic and change the oil every 10,000 miles with a filter+1qtoil every 5000 miles. Seems to work for me. I run the Genos EZ drain plug and man that thing is awesome. No mess at all. Definitely get one of the oil filter sockets and take it out from the bottom! Change your fuel filter every 10,000 miles too. www.genosgarage.com sells filter kits for our trucks at a great price. The kits include air, fuel, and oil filters. You can also get a kit without the air filter for those of us running something other than stock.... When I ran regular oil I changed it every 5000 miles....

Maybe Herb will chime in here. He's an Amzoil dealer and I don't think he ever changes his oil! He does have it analyzed often to make sure it is still protecting the engine though.


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