Need95-00CTD

Will this turbo bolt right up in place of my 35?

My turbo is in desperate need of a rebuild, and since I have a few mods that will make me overowrk a stock turbo I have been thinking of just going to an HX-40 now. I already have the DP, and exhaust...But will I need to stud the head if I gate the turbo to say 38lbs? I kinda need to do something...either rebuild the 35 or step up to the 40.

One more thing, how hard is it to rebuild one of these turbo's? I know the journal bearings are shot, and I'm almost positive there is enough play for the compressor to hit he housing, so is there anything I should know first?

Thanks Fellas',
-Matt

Mcmopar

If you have the down pipe it will bolt up. At 38 PSI you should be ok with bolts and a stock HG.

Need95-00CTD

One more thing, what about a Borg Warner HT3B? Are they any good? Or would an HX-40 be a better bet?

Mcmopar

I don't know for sure, but I run 12.8 in the quater with an HX 40

Need95-00CTD

Thats amazing, Thanks for the help Mcmopar.

Looks like I'll be picking up an HX-40.

Mcmopar

There are better turbo's out there, but the 40 is working for me. I am going to have to upgrade someday, but right now with a little water I can keep my temps down. Without the water I was too hot while racing or even street "playing"

JPM

You can buy a new cartridge if your housings are ok about 300.00. At least that what my last one cost for my super 40. The Super 40 swap was almost a bolt on with the down pipe. I also had to switch to the 35 waste actuator and weld a new tab for the waste gate lever. the Actuator on my 40 was clocked forward and in the way of the intake housing if clocked to bolt up with stock tubing. But I realy like the 40 now that its done.

Forrest Nearing

about the HX40, just make sure it's got the right turbine housing and will bolt up properly. also, make sure it's got at least a 60mm compressor wheel

not the greatest turbos, but I ran one for a long time on my 97 and was happy enough with it

JPM

Tell me more about your truck. Look at my set-up below, I have not been to the track with it but I don't think its even close to a 12.88 truck. Whats next?

Mcmopar

I made 436/957 with the 370's, HX 40 and DV's. And of course the exhaust, intake, etc, etc. I built my own tranny with Dave Goerend parts and some of my own goodies too. It has billet shafts, a triple disc converter, and I upgraded the number of clutches in every clutch pack except for the overdrive "direct" pack. My valve body locks the TC the minute the truck hits second with the "mystery" switch thrown too.

Now for the "real deal" on the 12.8's---I added a Scheid "tuned" pump. I can turn over 4,000 RPM and it is as smooth as silk. I ran that 12.88 with the Aneroid all the way back and the fuel plate in the middle of the adjustment slots, so the truck has "more" in it. The amount of fuel that pump will put out is crazy-water injection is MANDATORY!! I have not dynoed since I changed pumps, but I would venture to guess that I am at or near 500-510 RWHP. PM me if you want to talk sometime.

schoust

Hey Phil,What pump did you have when you dynoed it?? I may be at the end of my fuel soon with my little 160 pump,that is after I get the big D's in......

jlipskoc

I'm at 430 hp on a load dyno, 411 on the dyno. Same turbo, same sig below. Hx40 is laggy if you don't mind that? It might get a bit hot towing especially at low boost, but once she hits past 10 and lites up, hold on. I'm wg at 40. I rarely never get past 10-12 psi empty commuting on the hwy. Most of the time it sits at 2psi to 6psi at 70 mph flat. I can still get 22-23mpg going 55-60 on hwy.

While towing 8k-9k, 10-25 psi. Egts will get up to about 1150 on the hills, 800 flat, this was towing in 95 deg temps, 20-25psi on the hills, 12 on the flats, 8k of blocks, quite a head wind. I really didn't have to watch egts much. On the hills, just down shifted let the rpms come up, keep the boost up, egts never climb. To me the key with the hx40 is to keep the boost up past 10, then the air flow will keep the heat in check.

Don't get me wrong, I can easily peg the 1200 deg mark no problem, just keep the foot to the floor and it'll keep climbing. On a dyno in 5th gear, from 1200rpm, 300 deg egt, floor it, 3000rpm and about 1200egt.

I have about 40k on mine now, no problems, I don't hot rod it, only on the dyno's i give it a work out, most of the time its sitting at 10psi, or up to 30psi cause thats the time I need to shift gears and lose all the boost again.

Nobody has mentioned the hx40's weak shaft, they are known to break if NOS'ed or turbo barked, just word of warning, be easily on it on and off the pedal, it'll last a long time, cool it down to 300deg also.

Oh, if you like smoke, it'll make lots lol.

My next choice is a PDR-40, hopefully one of these days, its balanced, bettered oiled and not prone to shaft breakage.

Need95-00CTD

Is this thing stronger than my little 35 though? I mean, it does have about 260k miles on it, but this thing barked bad when I got on it, even locking up the TC, this thing would bark...I don't know if its because of the mods I have done now or what, but once I put in the shift kit, this thing better not break a shaft in the turbo because it barks switching gears...

I can't afford a $1000 turbo, so I am looking for a better replacement than a 35...anyone have any advise?

Mcmopar

The 35 is actually stronger than the 40. They have the same shaft size, but hte 40 has much larger wheels on it. The larger wheels "stress" the shaft more than the smaller ones on the 35.

Need95-00CTD

Well I'm now looking at an S300... Ball bearings instead of the thrust bearings, thats considerably better correct?