BossHogg

So after figureing out how to bypass the stuttering issue I was having with the TNT-R, which turned out all I had to do is run an even number without timing, Im starting to see some higher egts. Currently Im running the TNT-R on Lvl 6 and when I add in the quad x2 w/ the stack program on level 4 or 5 it really runs hard, but Im knocking on 1600 deg's door. It held below 1600 until I went from 2nd to 3rd, then it basically pinned the egt gauge. I know that's not good, but wondering whats too hot?

Also do you think it's time for water/meth, or should I adjust my programming? I was thinking that I could possibly add the timing on the Quad since the TNT-R programming on my truck doesn't like timing. Maybe I could gain some of the power back and lower the Smarty to lvl 4 or something? Just tryin to figure out a way around using the timing on the Smarty Sr. as it causes a stutter betwwen shifts for some reason...and like I said this went away when I went to an even number?? Not sure what timing and gear shifts have to do with each other, but something made the difference.

soulezoo

I've been telling folks for a long time about the timing... but oh well. Yes, you could use the quad to add some timing back, but it would be very little that you could use... maybe 3-6* at most. To avoid the high temps, especially on an 04 (don't drop a valve seat, which you can do very easily at those temps). And anything sustained above 1300-1350* is too much. Seriously, with what you did, you flirted with melting your pistons, if you didn't already to a small amount.

As far as the temps go, you are simply out of turbo... that's it. Time to throw an s475 under your existing turbo and you'll be fine again and be able to crank smarty up to 9. It is advisable to add water injection, but that is just a band-aid, the turbo is the cure. Until then, it is recommended you keep your programming lowered to a point your turbo can keep up.

Nsomniac05

Someone gave guidance in a thread a while back. 1200 is about the highest sustained temp you want to have. Then as the temp rises from there, the time spent up there drops. For instance 1300 is safe for less than a minute, 1400 for 30 seconds 1500 for 10 seconds, and 1600 momentarily. I have followed this guidance for 3 years, With the caveat that I have only been to 1600 twice and that was at the end of the sled track. I removed my head about 6 months ago for valvetrain and studs and the longblock looked phenomenal in my opinion. I could even still see the cross pattern on the cylinder walls. The only thing I noticed was a slight discoloration outside the bowls from the injector spray patterns. MADHAT also knows about flirtin with 1600.

Easy_C

Every time I see Piers he always tells me.... "Keep it under 1200 and you won't have any problems"

puffsmokeonya

ive hit 2600 multiple times. to many times to count.

michael/edge

i was always told 1250. got to think about melting point of steel. plus im guessing your probe is installed after your turbo so it actually hotter than what your reading and then before shutting off the truck i was always told to let it cool down to 400 degrees

Neight

Wow I have never seen 1600 I thought 1400 was pushing it. I wish I could find away to get my smarty to run cooler too..

KelschKid

Have ye tried different Smarty programs? I don't know all the names, but maybe one of the different softwares will allow you to run timing without any issues? Other than that I agree with Soulezoo; you need more air.

tryNto

Forget the steel, the Aluminum pistons are what we need to be concerned about melting, Aluminum melts at 1220°F...
Highest I have seen was 1300° for about 30-45 seconds, backed off and dropped a gear to 5th and continued the last couple miles up the grade @ 1100°....
I always let mine cool to under 350° B4 shut down...

Brian Lent

03-04 should try to stay under 1200 and04.5+ 1400 or under with stock timing. If you have your smarty timing up and your guage reads 1600 then your pistons are probably started melting. Timing is just a way to raise your powerband and trick your guages into lieing to you. My truck ran 1400 stock but I keep it below 1350 sustained towing long grades with minimal timing. I try to keep it under 1250 with advanced timing for prolonged times.

BossHogg

Soulezoo may be right about me being out of turbo, but I don't think I've started melting pistons....at least I hope not. But I've heard of a number of guys who hit 1800 in a CTD without any problems, Im not saying its good, but I don't agree that I've damaged something as of yet. Its only hit 1600 temoporarily as of yet.

Anything past 1200....now I know thats a little hard to do with just about any programming I would think.

I'll tone it down for now.

bullhauler05

2600!! I thought i was crazy for hitting 2100 before, and melted 3 pistons when i did that

Brian Lent

Egt's are like a guys manhood. Always seems to be exagerated a tad. Until you just face the facts and learn to use what ya got. So if the guage is getting into the red then get out of it until you get enough air to make it happy again.

Ace

Does that go for boost too?

rip 112

Agreed. The HTT ss is designed to handle 1600*+. However, if the turbo is seeing 1600*, how hot do you think the cylinder *s are??? Can't be good, looking at over 2000* at the engine.

I never see past 1350* on my truck, in my view that is my hot point, I wouldn't want to see past that.


Boss, you could try water/meth, but i don't think it will give you enough for a constant 400* drop when needed. I think you will either have to back down or consider going larger or twins. So I agree with soulezoo.