rbrettctd

I know its out there...But dummy me cant find it. Anyone got the directions for the build your own?

HOHN

Lotsa ways to do it. I'd buy the pump and injectors from Coolingmist, but get the tank from Nortern Tool or your local ag supplier. The plumbing can come from any home depot/Lowe's/etc...

Napa has the Hobbs switches for about $30.

jh

rbrettctd

Cool, thanks. Ive got a 15 gallon tank that we used to use for spraying weeds, Ill flush it out good and use it maybe. Doesnt the pump have to be close to the tank?

Jethrro

I believe Loch has a diagram in his photo gallery on his home built injection setup. Don't really remember I thought he did a really good thread on it too. Jethrro

bnold

My pump is in the tool box of my truck... Use a check valve close to the intake horn to keep the system primed

svanni

Use a pressure switch like this:
http://www.gemssensors.com/content.aspx?id=1200
Run a 12V power lead from the battery or ignition > in-cab switch > in--cab LED > pressure switch > pump. The pressure switch is adjustable to allow fine tuning of the boost pressure trigger.

Seems quite simple to me.

I'd drill/tap the intake for two nozzles, then mix and match nozzles until you get the flow that matches your engines needs. Also, as stated in a prior post, plumb in a check valve as close to the nozzles as possible.

Get the fittings at Home Depot/Lowes etc.
Get the pump and nozzles at Coolingmist.com
Get the check valve here:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRHM
(catalog pages 4009-4010)

Hit the switch to enable the system. When your boost hits your target psi, the pump will activate and the in-cab LED will illuminate.

loch

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&ppuser=25705

thats my scematic, and theres no need to guess on nozzle size, you want right at 30 gph at what ever pressure your pump is minus the boost. Unless you want a two stage system you only need one nozzle, more isnt better in all cases.

nozzles come from http://www.mcmaster.com/ search for spray nozzle then pick the gph you want whether one or two nozzles, and spend extra buck and get stainless.

i have a list with numbers but its in shop, but iv posted it here more than once. "edit" ok i put the parts list in my gallery, has all the part numbers and the source, once its approved anyway.

loch

svanni just for the record the scematic you posted, that check valve doesnt need to be there. All surflo as well as flojet pumps have a built in check valve, plus it needs to be a solenoid, that will assure two things,
1-water can not siphon into the intake when system is off
2-the system will stay pressurized between uses.

I know iv said this probably too many times, if you build your own, do it right, listen look and think, w/m can cause damage if applied wrong. If done right its a great HP boost plus its cooling effect, it has no ill effects,

Jim Lane

In your schematic, how are you passing all of the current from the pump through the LED and switch is there something I am missing?
Jim

bnold

Correct however if the pump is going to be mounted in the bed or a long distance from the intake manifold another checkvalve should be used

gomerpile

well i was just adding up Loch's price list, and noticed that coolingmist's standard non progressive pakage is cheaper. and neither is with tank. am i missing something

loch

gomer those are just estimates, you can find cheaper stuff, but most people dont want to look, they like it easy.