3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

Help Please!!!

Old 02-20-2010, 02:40 PM
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KKB
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Help Please!!!

I just installed my new Garrett stage 2 and the coolant must have an air bubble in it. It is not circulating the coolant and I don't want to fry my new turbo. What do I need to do? Help please.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:57 PM
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Coolant Flow

I know this way sound funny but what is the water Temp. gauge saying saying? Dont forget that the coolant will not flow until the thermostat OPENS, I am think that the stock therostat is like a 185 to 200 range. So your truck is going to need to get hot before the coolant will start to flow. Hope that helps. I alls just make sure that it radiator is full run the engine and the heat in cab and bring it up to operating temp. close to 200 degrees then keep topping off till bubbles go stop. Remember to keep the heater in the cab going because air like to get trapped in the heater core. Again hope this helps...

Ben
Old 02-20-2010, 03:04 PM
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That's part of the problem. It will not blow any warm air and the engine temp gauge never budges.
Old 02-20-2010, 03:07 PM
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coolant still flows when tstat is closed, just very little. if it did not, the head pressure would be too great and would blow hoses off the motor.


run the engine at an idle with the rad cap off, monitor the coolant level. squeeze the upper hose slowly and watch the level drop. add coolant. let it get to operating temp. it won't fry the turbo because it is still lubricated by the oil supply. just don't go and beat on the truck until you have coolant topped off and air out of system. like said above, turn heater on defrost and that will make sure air is not in heater core plus with it on defrost, it will put a slight load on motor with a/c compressor running and help heat up motor faster, also put an old towel over the front of the radiator. it will stop incoming air and help heat up motor faster.
Old 02-20-2010, 03:11 PM
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Thermostat

maybe your thermostat is stuck open... But that does not seem right cause then you would have water flow but it would not let it heat up. so you have the radiator full of water right? and the over flow bottle like say half full. I would leave the radiator cap off and run it with the cab heater on. A good thing to have would be a radiate heat thermometer that you can shoot the different area on the engine to check temps. one like a HVAC guys use then you know your not hurting anything will you try to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open.
Old 02-20-2010, 03:16 PM
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brahs

excelleant way to put it all, at least I can get what I meant across...LOL But that is solid info. to go with.... Also cbrahs, Semper Fidelis to you and your son, another JARHEAD here, Heavy Equipment Engineer though. I do my work behind the controls of equipment. Work smarter not harder I say... Well actually my grandfather says that but makes sense to me..... OOHHRAY!!!
Old 02-20-2010, 03:20 PM
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The engine temp gauge is reading halfway between 140 and 210, maybe a bit closer to the 140 though. I had the heater on all the way but now a bit of warm air. I have been able to put about 1.5 gallon of water and antifreeze since this started. Thanks everyone, I will try what cbrahs said and turn defrost on and the towel trick.
Old 02-20-2010, 03:37 PM
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I got the temp gauge up to 205, but still not a bit of warm air. I don't know if the t-stat is opening or not. the top rad. hose has some coolant to it now. You can feel it in there, I have no idea. cbrahs, how far can I drive before I screw this thing up if there is no water getting to it? I don't plan on going anywhere until it is fixed, but I did just take a trip around the block to get it to warm up more. Will the oil be enough for it if there is no coolant? Thanks much
Old 02-20-2010, 03:52 PM
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You will be alright to run it until the water gets to circulating, just don't hammer it and get high egts.

I've never experienced what you are describing with my turbos. So, please describe how you plumbed the system.
Old 02-20-2010, 03:55 PM
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might crack a coolant line at the turbo while running if you can to bleed any trapped air maybe?
Old 02-20-2010, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by benboonie
excelleant way to put it all, at least I can get what I meant across...LOL But that is solid info. to go with.... Also cbrahs, Semper Fidelis to you and your son, another JARHEAD here, Heavy Equipment Engineer though. I do my work behind the controls of equipment. Work smarter not harder I say... Well actually my grandfather says that but makes sense to me..... OOHHRAY!!!
thanks brother. thank you for your service!
Old 02-20-2010, 04:08 PM
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I guess I missed the part about how changing a turbo has something to do with the coolant?
Old 02-20-2010, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Ace
I guess I missed the part about how changing a turbo has something to do with the coolant?
it is a water cooled garret
Old 02-20-2010, 04:27 PM
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I got it working guys. I cracked the connection at the turbo to let some air out right a away and got steam. What finally made it go was squeezing the top rad. hose and holding it almost shut. You could feel air or water going through it. I then filled the rad forever and could hear it running in somewhere and knew I got it. Started up and had warm air blowing real quick. Thanks a ton cbrahs, just letting me know everything would be ok with the turbo settled me down a bunch. I will let everyone know about the turbo later, we have a b-day party to go to. Thanks so much to everyone. This is a great site, all these responses so quick. Over on cumminsforum in the same time I got 1 response and that was me saying I got it working. Thanks again guys.
Old 02-20-2010, 04:33 PM
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have fun. post pics!

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