D2 Cat

both mirrors fail to heat. Can someone tell me "very slowly and succinctly" where to start to discover the problem. Since they both do not heat I'm guessing it's a wire, fuse, or something just not making a connection, instead of a malfunctioning mirror.

I know i need to start at the fuse, and go from there, but I'd rather take a whipping then work or electrical!! I know once I get started the job will be 1/2 over.

I'm not sure how to get to the wires in the door panel. Do I remove the entire panel? Is there access to the mirrors w/o removing the panel? Can I check the wires down near the driver floorboard? Any one know color of wire going to power for mirrors?

OK, I'll get off my butt and do some research. All clues appreciated though.

klx650a2

Check the basics first, are your fuses ok?

biododge1

Also, is the switch lighting up?

mishkaya

Nine times out of ten, it's the elements in the mirrors themselves that have gone bad. Check your fuse first, then check for power at the switch, then finally remove the door panels (5 minute operation or less) and check for resistance in the mirrors, I am almost willing to bet you find that the circuit is open, which means the elements are shot. Both of mine quit working on my '01 within a week of each other. I ended up getting a set of KoolVue power heated towing mirrors instead and that cured my problem.

D2 Cat

I checked the fuses. They're OK. The switch works and the light lights up. I removed the AC control panel and made sure there was power through the switch. There are three wires coming out going to the mirrors. Two of them have power when the switch is on.

I think one wire go to the drivers' side one to the pass. side, but I am going to have fun trying to follow those two wires through the maze underneath the dash.

How do you get the mirrors removed from the plastic they're held in? I think I need to check for power at that end and then work back towards the switch.

mishkaya

I doubt the problem is in the power side of the matter. I think it would be easiest to remove the door panels and check for power at the connector, and at the same time you can check the resistance of the elements.

D2 Cat

mishkaya, I see what you're saying, however I bought this truck in Atlanta, Ga. Shouldn't be need down there too much.

I didn't look at the door panels very closely. What's required to remove them? I'm sure I have the tool to reach in and pop those dandy plastic keepers.

mishkaya

If you have the tool, it makes it easier, but if you don't it's no big deal. There is one screw up where the mirror is, two screws in the pocket above the door handle and there are 11 christmas tree fasteners holding the door in place. I usually just pop them off by hand. Once you get the door off, it's super easy to test the element at the connector.
I seldom use the heated feature myself, but they seem to go bad anyway in time, from corrosion and vibration I would assume.

D2 Cat

Thanks for your help. I'll do more investigating tomorrow!

Does the glass part of the mirror come out of the housing?

mishkaya

It does, but it has been so long, I can't remember if it just pry's out or not. I will look in the FSM tomorrow and let you know if you would like.

s-cube

Any idea how many ohms of resistance the elements have?

D2 Cat

The resistance should be from 10 to 16 ohms when measured at an ambient temperature of 21 deg C (70 deg F).

D2 Cat

I did remove two screws holding the mirror to the housing. There must be one more on the outer edge I haven't gotten to yet. If you find if, how, or how many screws hold the mirror in place I'd appreciate it.

I am quite sure the problem is corrosion on the spade connectors on the back of the mirror. There is power and a good ground on the female connector behind the door panel just before it attaches to the pigtail to the mirror. The grid is not burnt open. I need to get to the spade connectors and clean them. Then I'll see if there is heat!!