fccparts

i recently studded and oring the head on my 96 i tappped the holes for the studdes torqued and ground out the relief in the valve cover but i still am about 1/16 from hitting the gasket with the valve cover. the valve cover just cant go down any further without having a whole in the top where the stud could stick out. Has anyone ran into this, do they make a longer valve cover or extension of some sort, or would i be better of putting those little filters on top of every valve cover where the stud goes through, it would relieve even more crankcase pressure

bgilbert

I had to grind into the wall of the valve cover, not just the ribs. The valve covers are somewhat thick and you can take a good amount of material out of the wall with no problems. Pictures of this in my photo gallery. If you look you can see an indention where the stud and nut would sit. Some have removed the washer out from under the nut. I didn't want to do this.

Tiger Rag

I ground down the bottom of the stud. Didn't want to do the top of it. Made sure didn't remove too much material so as to get full thread contact on the nut up top. Used a bench grinder.

fccparts

same stud i was having problems with i was puttin 125 lbs to it and poof broke the stude off in the block im kind worried about all of em now i know its not the tourque wrench it a snap on and i had it calibrated a week or so ago has anyone else had problems of of these studes

Tiger Rag

With my install, I was informed that I should run the stud all the way in, then back it out about 1/2 turn to keep it off the bottom. That is one thing that helps keep them from breaking. Also, the moly assembly lube is supposed to help. The other thing was to torque them sloooooooooowly.

Are you going to be able to get the broken stud out very easily? Man, I hate that for you.

BigBlue

I thought that the max torque on the studs was 120?

fccparts

it said 125 on the instructions it was fairly slow but i did not back them off 1/2 turn it never said anything about that on the instruction sheet. this was the third torque i did it once when i put it back together again when i got it to operating temp. and again (when i broke it) after about 250 miles or a week of easy driving. schied is already sending me another, i cant say how much i appreciate good customer service. i definatly will get all the parts i can from schied, great job guys. although they said they have never seen a stud break from anything other than overtorque, i will have the wrench re-calibrated tommorrow but it checks the same as 4 other tourqe wrenches in the shop, maybe where all out. i hate to think its a defective bolt because odds are all of them are defective, i'll just have to wait and see if i get just one or the whole set, this stuff is way too expensive to be breakin again. thanks for all your help guys i appreciate it.

fccparts

i'll get that stud out i plan to take a really long drill bit and drill it a little and take an easy out backward on a long 1/4 inch extension. i hope anyway... if it dosn't i guess i'll have to take the head off again does anyone know if i can reuse any of mu fire rings or gasket over. worse case scenerio.

rharveysr

I took out the ribs on the valve covers but I also cut nearly 2 full threads off of the stuff. I run the studs down to snug then put the washer and number on also snug..Made a mental note of the amount of stud above the nut...then pulled the stud back and cut it off with a 4.5 cut off grinder. Then I dressed the top thread and used an air hose to clean the stud up. Small amount of oil and ran it down and snug'd it..
Fit great after doing the above...

Rick

kipo

"same stud i was having problems with i was puttin 125 lbs to it and poof broke the stude off in the block im kind worried about all of em now i know its not the tourque wrench it a snap on and i had it calibrated a week or so ago has anyone else had problems of of these studes
04-12-2006 10:20 PM "


i actually broke two ARP studs while installing. after many hours of reading i lubed the heck out of em and torqued them to 118 (very slowly). i failed however to bring it up to temp and torque again. after blowing the gasket for the second time i tried torqing to 120 and broke one in the block. so i pulled it and DOUG from PDW sent me another stud. THANKS AGAIN DOUG FOR BEING SO PATIENT! installed them the second time and had about six of them that had to be taken off and the threads cleaned up and a different cap put on them. pay very close attention to the caps if there is any of the tap material left over clean them out. I would find a set of dies for both the top and bottom of the stud (just in case). i found several fine metal wires left over from the manufacturer and concluded this was the cause of the caps screwing up the threads. so i took off all of them put them in a vise and ran the caps down and back up several times to make sure they had no restrictions. then i torqued to 113, brought up to temp and torqued to 120 and in the process broke the threads on a cap. i was about ready to send the torqe wrench through the window but my girl stopped me. so i said **** it and put one of the stock head bolts in and torqed it to 120. it's holding to far but if it ever goes i'm going to use the ARP's for fishing weights!! NOT VERY PLEASED WITH ARP'S QUALITY AND WILL NOT ORDER ANOTHER SET. i have pics but haven't got them posted yet. and i might ad the first torque wrench was a Harbor Freight which broke around 105 so i rented one from AUTO ZONE to finish. the second wrench was a brand new CRAFTSMAN from SEARS.

fccparts

actually these where not the arp studs these where supposed to be the better ones from schied. iv read about the arp's breaking, shied said these where much better quality, but anyway i finally got the old stud out, without having to take the head off. should there be anyway i should be able to drill straight down through these studes with a 2 dollar ace hardware bit, went through it like hot butter. maybe im just perinoid but it seems like these studs wern't temperd right i have about a half inch above the nut, and have no idea how im going to cut the valve covers down that much.