1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

>>> HAYNES or CHILTONS <<<

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Old 07-17-2011, 01:04 AM
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Question >>> HAYNES or CHILTONS <<<

I am not so much interested in Cummins engine information as I am such things as electrical and chassis information.

With that in mind, which is the better book, Haynes or Chiltons ??


Thanks.
Old 07-17-2011, 01:23 AM
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for me it's a toss up.

I have used both, Haynes for the Mrs' Civic and Chilton for my Ferds (Lincoln Towncar & Ranger).
Old 07-17-2011, 06:27 AM
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Why not get an FSM? The Haynes and chilton are always lacking...Mark
Old 07-17-2011, 06:36 AM
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Geno's has them on cd now...35 bucks...Mark
Old 07-17-2011, 08:33 AM
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cds are tough to flip back and forth, from repair info, to schematics, the books are the way to go, ive got haynes manuals that are not schematic accurate, for the diesel, try faxon automotive literature, riverside ca. new manual set for your year, around 80. - 100. well worth it.
Old 07-17-2011, 09:35 AM
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I think the factory manuals are the best. They can be purchased fairly cheap now a days. They are model year specific and even gives Miller part #'s for specific tools needed if any.
Old 07-17-2011, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by sooty
cds are tough to flip back and forth, from repair info, to schematics, the books are the way to go, ive got haynes manuals that are not schematic accurate, for the diesel, try faxon automotive literature, riverside ca. new manual set for your year, around 80. - 100. well worth it.
You can print out what you need or the books are available at Geno's also, a bit pricey, but well worth it, IMO...Mark
Old 07-17-2011, 11:27 AM
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There are to many mistakes in both companies manuals.

The dealers shop manual is the only way to go. After all these years and manuals I have had for the vehicles I've owned, I'm saving money by using only the shop manuals. When your spending your hard earned money on your personal equipment, you want it right. Not hoping the info is correct, or finding the truth out and buying more parts, making adjustments or flat out cussing about the wrong info.

It's 'YOUR' vehicle, 'your' safety depends on it, get yourself the best.
Old 07-17-2011, 03:13 PM
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I have the haynes, useless. fsm is the best oooops my bad millwright language

Last edited by crazy clem; 07-17-2011 at 08:35 PM.
Old 07-17-2011, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by anoldbiker
There are to many mistakes in both companies manuals.

The dealers shop manual is the only way to go. After all these years and manuals I have had for the vehicles I've owned, I'm saving money by using only the shop manuals. When your spending your hard earned money on your personal equipment, you want it right. Not hoping the info is correct, or finding the truth out and buying more parts, making adjustments or flat out cussing about the wrong info.

It's 'YOUR' vehicle, 'your' safety depends on it, get yourself the best.
..x2
Old 07-17-2011, 07:50 PM
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As others have said FSM is the way to go.
Old 07-17-2011, 10:36 PM
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I have trucks ranging from 1989 to 1993.

Will I need a FSM for each year ??

Thanks.
Old 07-17-2011, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BearKiller
I have trucks ranging from 1989 to 1993.

Will I need a FSM for each year ??

Thanks.
89 to 90.5 are pretty much identical. I would think that the trucks differences in all the years are minimal, but I do not know when the different ATs were used. You could get 1 early manual and 1 later cd, just an idea...Mark
Old 07-17-2011, 10:44 PM
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I know that the 92 fsm is different than the 93 buddys 93 fsm has extra section for getrag in it
Old 07-18-2011, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by crazy clem
I know that the 92 fsm is different than the 93 buddys 93 fsm has extra section for getrag in it
I believe that is because the Getrag was considered by many to not be rebuildable. I found out otherwise by buying the Motor's Domestic Trans manual when I toasted mine due to that namby-pamby pilot bushing disintegrating and allowing the input shaft to tear itself, its bearing and the countergear to shreds.


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