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what to have on hand for tranny swap?

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Old 03-05-2007, 12:18 PM
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what to have on hand for tranny swap?

I'll be installing a Goerend Bros tranny this Thursday or Saturday. I know I'll need a transmission jack and something to spread the frame slightly in order to remove the cross member. What else should I have on hand, tools and parts?
Old 03-05-2007, 12:43 PM
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A 36" Extention w/ a retard head helps to unbolt the tranny from the motor.

A baggy to catch the fluid out of the back of the tcase.

.Chad
Old 03-05-2007, 12:57 PM
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You don't have to have a spreader to take the crossmember out, just a small sledge hammer
Old 03-05-2007, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Eradan
A 36" Extention w/ a retard head helps to unbolt the tranny from the motor.

A baggy to catch the fluid out of the back of the tcase.

.Chad


retard head?

I was just going to drain the t-case and unbolt it seperate from the tranny.
Old 03-05-2007, 03:40 PM
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It is easier to use a bottle jack and a 4x4 to spread the ffrom a little and the cross member goes in and out easily. Pete
Old 03-05-2007, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by pete97
It is easier to use a bottle jack and a 4x4 to spread the ffrom a little and the cross member goes in and out easily. Pete
I agree!!!
Old 03-05-2007, 03:56 PM
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A barring tool, and a torque wrench. 16 quarts or tranny fluid, and some good cooler flush and compressed air!!
Old 03-05-2007, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by royta
retard head?

I was just going to drain the t-case and unbolt it seperate from the tranny.
Otherwise known as a 'wobble' head ... i think ... we've alway's called them retard heads for some reason ...
Old 03-05-2007, 07:08 PM
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And a Hammer-four...
Old 03-05-2007, 07:47 PM
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Make sure you have the correct resistor to fool the computer into to thinking the pressure is lower than it really is. If it senses to high a pressure, it will give a check engine light, maybe put it into limp mode. Talk to Dave about the resistor value and which wire to install it on.

To turn the engine, remove the stamped steel access cover on the bell housing and just use a descent sized screwdirver on the teeth of the flex plate to rotate the engine. Kind of like adjusting the starwheel on rear brakes but on a larger scale. Turns the motor over nice and easy, and from under the truck where your doing all the work anyways.

Hit the tranny cooling line connections at the trans with penetrating oil a few times a few days before you plan on doing the swap. Make sure your cooler line hoses are in good shape (metal and rubber) because you will have higher pressures now.

Thats all I can think of for now. KD
Old 03-05-2007, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kd460
Make sure you have the correct resistor to fool the computer into to thinking the pressure is lower than it really is. If it senses to high a pressure, it will give a check engine light, maybe put it into limp mode. Talk to Dave about the resistor value and which wire to install it on.

To turn the engine, remove the stamped steel access cover on the bell housing and just use a descent sized screwdirver on the teeth of the flex plate to rotate the engine. Kind of like adjusting the starwheel on rear brakes but on a larger scale. Turns the motor over nice and easy, and from under the truck where your doing all the work anyways.

Hit the tranny cooling line connections at the trans with penetrating oil a few times a few days before you plan on doing the swap. Make sure your cooler line hoses are in good shape (metal and rubber) because you will have higher pressures now.

Thats all I can think of for now. KD

Tranny came with resistor and connector number and wire colors to connect to.

I've got a barring tool.

I'll do that with the cooler lines.

(previous owner) Lines were replaced 80k ago, when the original tranny was rebuilt due to the lines rubbing together and creating a hole. These new lines are the older, more desireable lines too.
Old 03-07-2007, 10:32 PM
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Well, tomorrow's the big day. I picked up some 5/16" and 3/8" USCG approved "A1" fuel hose at one of the boat shops in town. Wow, that stuff is thick. I also rented a transmission jack and bought 2 cases of Valvoline ATF +4 fluid. I'll use the 9 quarts of ATF +3 I already have on hand, and finish the fill with the ATF +4. Then I should have enough left over to do a tranny service in 2000 miles.


It appears I don't need to remove the starter. I plan on disconnecting one of cooler hoses, and with the engine running and trans in neutral, I'll pump the fluid into a container. This should get all of the fluid out of the transmission, then I can drop the pan and get the remainder out.
Old 03-07-2007, 10:40 PM
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Im pretty sure the starter must come out as when i pulled mine to have it rebuilt it had to come off. Its not a big deal to take out once your under there just take out the hardest bolt first(i hope you are doing this on a lift as w/o one it would be a pain to swap the tranny) and if you have it out you can check the contacts to see if there bad or on the way to becoming bad.
Old 03-07-2007, 10:51 PM
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Nope, no lift. I'll probably jack it up at least 12" and put all four corners on jack stands though.

Hmm, the bolts for the starter feed the engine side. I was under the impression they threaded into the engine block, not the trans bell housing. After spraying the crud off the bottom of the engine/transmission, I noticed the starter is a Cummins Recon starter, so I know it's at least been replaced once by the original owner. I bought the truck 50k miles ago and the truck now has 160k miles.
Old 03-07-2007, 10:56 PM
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Well when i had mine out the starter bolts went into the bell housing so all im going to say is try what you feel will work. With the truck off the ground that will help its just i had access to a lift and any tool available for free. Anyway goodluck with the swap and make sure when you go to lower or raise the tranny to have it strapped to the jack.


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