Troutstrannysvc

So as some of you may, or might not know I aquired this truck pretty cheap w/ the transmission tore out.
We rebuilt the transmission got the TC looked over @ the local torque shop and they put what needed to be put back in it, ect ect.
Got the truck on the road once it hit lockup it tore the torque to shreads, and ripped the input shaft and stator shaft clean off.
After getting the TC cut open and looking @ the internals we decided it was the failular and when the TC shop would not stand behind their product we told them to come and get the 20 some odd number of torques we had laying on the floor (to sale) that we'd take our business elsewhere.

Anyways, finally got the truck back on the road.
We ended up putting a stock convertor back in it to hold off until I get the $$ or if we decide to build our own.
With the stock convertor in it, it is deffintly slipping the clutch in lockup.
So in order to prevent some "wear&tear" I would like to defuel it w/o robbing too much power.

So I started w/ the wastegate, it was getting 48# of boost and from what I have read that is WAY to much and isn't efficant on a stock turbo so I figured "What the hell, lets find out where the line is plugged and d/c it"
Well did that took it up the road and it didn't open/close propperly so I figured he had it plugged in one mroe place and that I'd get to it tomorrow.
Boy was I wrong, took the truck down the road after I picked up a buddy.. crusing.. and all of the sunden hurd somthing make a noise and I lost all my boost and the ole girl was blowing 4 streams of PURE black smoke..
My first through was "****, there went the tranny" But I was happy to find that it was intact.

I read that these rust when they're not operating so tomorrow I'm pulling the turbo off, checking shaft play and getting the wastegate to work propperly.
I felt the vacume and it has moved down.

So tomorrow the process of taming the ole girl will begin and here are my questions;

1) The starwheel?
IT should be turn't towards the cab = less fuel
And towards the RAD. = more fuel, correct?
2) The smoke/fuel screw? Is this more towards the cab on the pump, on the side of the pump and has a locknut and a bolt in it?
3) As far as pump timing goes? What should it be set at?

I mean the truck works, runs, and shifts great.
But in the first couple seconds of lockup I got shudder from the stock TC and it slips from the #40+ boost... so my main concern is lowering that, which I'm pretty sure ill have it lowerd tomorrow.
I just wanna back the starwheel off, and check the smoke screw??

Thanks in advance!

Captain

I'm not aware of any smoke screw on a p7100 but i could be wrong. 34pounds of boost from what I understand is max efficent boost on a hx35. Stock timeing on my 215pump is 13.5degrees and I run it at around 16-16.5. and your correct. star wheel twords radiator = more fuel at low boost. Starwheel twords cab is less fuel at low boost. Somewhere in the middle is more or less stock. Also check your fuel plate. It might be full forword. Pull it back some and you'll drop all kinds of power and its a quick and easy job.

cumminsdriver635

Disconnect the boost line running into the back of the AFC housing, and plug it. It will act just like a valet switch. It wont be near as much fun to drive, but it will help save your tranny, and can be switched back in 5 min's. Also, tightening the starwheel up a lot makes the power much more linear, and it doesent come on near as hard. Might try that before anything else. Or there is the obvious which is to just slide the plate back. It doesent take long either, but the other 2 options can be undone a lot quicker. It sounds to me like you blew an intercooler boot off. did you check them? Oh, and there IS a "smoke screw" on the back of the AFC housing that most people dont know about.

Eric