Hard to Start - Fuel Problem?
#1
Hard to Start - Fuel Problem?
I have searched and searched the threads but I am no more confused as to what my problem might be.
It takes me several times of cranking to finally get my truck to start. Once it does start it stumbles until it gets to a good solid idle. I am thinking a fuel problem.
I have heard the lift pump is what goes a lot of times. Now is the lift pump in the tank or where exactly? I thought it was but then I thought I remeber seeing that it is mounted on the motor.
Thanks,
Travis
It takes me several times of cranking to finally get my truck to start. Once it does start it stumbles until it gets to a good solid idle. I am thinking a fuel problem.
I have heard the lift pump is what goes a lot of times. Now is the lift pump in the tank or where exactly? I thought it was but then I thought I remeber seeing that it is mounted on the motor.
Thanks,
Travis
#2
Registered User
Have you changed out your steel lines? The supply and return fuel lines that go over the bellhousing are known to leak. You will need about 12-15' of diesel rated fuel hose.
You can get it for cheap at www.vulcanperformance.com.
The supply line is 3/8" return is 5/16". Its best to just replace from the tank to pump.
Also, are BOTH of your grid heaters working?
It is easy to test with a multimeter. You will need the truck cold. Have someone turn the key to on, and check BOTH of the grid heater at the air intake horn. There is 2 heavy gauge wires on it, each one has its own relay/solenoid. They are mounted on the driver fender under the battery. Also check ALL of the wires on the relays there are 4 on each relay. Alot of times the 2 smaller wires get loose and fall off, just take a pair of pliers and squeeze the elbow so it makes a better contact.
Try those things first. I would start with the grid heaters. I had 1 heater out and it started, but with alot of smoke.
You can get it for cheap at www.vulcanperformance.com.
The supply line is 3/8" return is 5/16". Its best to just replace from the tank to pump.
Also, are BOTH of your grid heaters working?
It is easy to test with a multimeter. You will need the truck cold. Have someone turn the key to on, and check BOTH of the grid heater at the air intake horn. There is 2 heavy gauge wires on it, each one has its own relay/solenoid. They are mounted on the driver fender under the battery. Also check ALL of the wires on the relays there are 4 on each relay. Alot of times the 2 smaller wires get loose and fall off, just take a pair of pliers and squeeze the elbow so it makes a better contact.
Try those things first. I would start with the grid heaters. I had 1 heater out and it started, but with alot of smoke.
#3
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It sounds like you might have a leak, a really weak lift pump, or a clogged filter. You lift pump is on the driver's side of the engine just below your fuel filter. The Haynes manual has a good section of checking all the components of your fuel system - might be a good place to start. Also be sure to check the pre-filter housing next to the lift pump.
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Yea, sounds like an air leak. Like mentioned earlier, the lines are prone to leaking. The module at the tanks elbows were steel in 96 and they rust bad. The fuel heaters also were a weak link in letting air in. Also, a bad overflow valve can be the culprit.
Do you notice it's worse with low fuel?
Remember, air can leak in where fuel will not leak out. You wouldn't think so but it can.
If this is happening even with warm temps i'll bet it's not your grids.
Do you notice it's worse with low fuel?
Remember, air can leak in where fuel will not leak out. You wouldn't think so but it can.
If this is happening even with warm temps i'll bet it's not your grids.
#5
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My truck has been not starting sometimes, I've had to "pressurize" my fuel tank with a compressor and finaly it gets the air out of the lines and will start. My shop said it is my lift pump, the plunger can get warn and not hold a prime anymore. It has only happened when it was below 1/4 tank. I'm putting a new lift pump in on Tuesday so I will keep you updated.
Also right after I pump it up with air it starts so good but over time it takes longer and longer to start. So don't let your fuel get under 1/4 tank for piece of mind if you can. I hope it works for me and I'm pretty sure thats the problem.
Also right after I pump it up with air it starts so good but over time it takes longer and longer to start. So don't let your fuel get under 1/4 tank for piece of mind if you can. I hope it works for me and I'm pretty sure thats the problem.
#6
I have noticed that once I do get it started it is fine for the rest of the day. But if I let it sit for a couple hours (More than 3 or so) then it is hard to crank again. Its almost like it is loosing prime.
#7
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An easy way to check for leaks is to take shop air at a low pressure 5-10psi. Take a rag and stuff it around the hose, and stick it in the fuel filler tube. Have someone watch for leaks. If you dont have any, its most likely your hoses over the bellhousing.
Your lift pump works on vacuum, and the hoses above the bellhousing will pull in air after being shutdown.
Have you changed your fuel lines? If not its probably a good time to do it. Its not easy, but if they havent been done you should do this.
Also, have you changed your fuel filter lately?
The mechanical lift pumps are extremly reliable. If you do any kind of searching or reasearching, most of the top dogs will switch to one over the electric pumps. They push more fuel than an electric one.
If your lift pump is wearing out it will usually start tapping loud.
i forgot, one more place that has problems is the fuel heater. If you look at the heater from the top of the motor, you will see a plug that goes into the heater. This plug/harness burns up and causes an air leak. Its pretty easy to see it . You can also pull the plug out and if its wet, its leaking.
Your lift pump works on vacuum, and the hoses above the bellhousing will pull in air after being shutdown.
Have you changed your fuel lines? If not its probably a good time to do it. Its not easy, but if they havent been done you should do this.
Also, have you changed your fuel filter lately?
The mechanical lift pumps are extremly reliable. If you do any kind of searching or reasearching, most of the top dogs will switch to one over the electric pumps. They push more fuel than an electric one.
If your lift pump is wearing out it will usually start tapping loud.
i forgot, one more place that has problems is the fuel heater. If you look at the heater from the top of the motor, you will see a plug that goes into the heater. This plug/harness burns up and causes an air leak. Its pretty easy to see it . You can also pull the plug out and if its wet, its leaking.
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#8
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my truck does the same thing its because the gridheaters aren't working atleast thats why my truck does it, probably why yours does the same thing, does your voltmeter go right to 14v or a little past it. then it's the grid heater relays
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