How hard is it to change Front Wheel U-joints?
#1
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How hard is it to change Front Wheel U-joints?
Is putting new u-joints in the front axle something that an average home mechanic can do in their garage? It looks kind of difficult. Thanks guys
#2
The hard part is getting the sealed unit bearings off. Run a search you’ll read for hours.
They tend to rust in place and can split open if you use a puller. Some guys have luck backing the bolts out a bit and using the power steering as a press by wedging a rod between the bolt head and steering linkage.
When you re-assemble, use lots of antisieze!
They tend to rust in place and can split open if you use a puller. Some guys have luck backing the bolts out a bit and using the power steering as a press by wedging a rod between the bolt head and steering linkage.
When you re-assemble, use lots of antisieze!
Last edited by mitternocht; 05-22-2010 at 09:04 PM. Reason: Typo
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If you wait till memorial weekend, I'll be able to tell you. My bud says it takes about 4 hours to do them & the upper & lower ball joints. I only need the ball joints, but might as well do them while I'm in there for the extra $150. I'll post back to let you know the answer.
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If you can replace u-joints successfully you can do this job. Like has been said already, the hardest part is getting the unit bearing out of the knuckle. The other thing, is the axle nut, you will need the correct socket and a torque wrench capable of 265 ft / lbs to tighten it.
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Hmmm seems kinda high. I thought it was 185 ft/lbs After researching, I see numbers all over the place. So I guess that means turn the impact gun on high and stand on it for a few minutes.
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From the 2006 service manual:
6. Install axle (2) washer and nut (1). Tighten axle nut
to 179 N·m (132 ft. lbs.).
7. Rotate axle several 5 to 10 times to seat the wheel
bearing.
8. Tighten axle nut (1) to final torque of 356 N·m (263
ft. lbs.).
9. Align nut to next cotter pin hole and install new cotter
pin (3).
6. Install axle (2) washer and nut (1). Tighten axle nut
to 179 N·m (132 ft. lbs.).
7. Rotate axle several 5 to 10 times to seat the wheel
bearing.
8. Tighten axle nut (1) to final torque of 356 N·m (263
ft. lbs.).
9. Align nut to next cotter pin hole and install new cotter
pin (3).
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Alright guys thanks for the info. I've done drive shaft u-joints before but I'll have to put more thought into doing this my self. And dang! 263 ft-lbs!
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#8
Divide your weight into 263 and get the ft. Put tape on the handle of a straight bar at that spot, center your foot on the tape and stand smoothly on it, done. Don't bounce or shove it.
I'm 180, so 1.46 ft from center of the nut for me.
I'm 180, so 1.46 ft from center of the nut for me.
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That right there is some great info. I never even thought of doing that. Thank you for posting it!
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I just took my truck in because my left front u-joint is toast.... They took it apart and found the seal unit bearing rusted solid on.. They actually almost stripped one of the bolts holding it on.. Regardless they had to put it back together because they did not have a spare unit bearing in stock and thought with heating it to get it loose they would ruin the bearing. (that is a $350 part). So my easy u-joint replacement could cost me $600 bucks.... (for one side).
Should I try the power steering method? This is really frustrating, as I just replaced my clutch and to have another expense in a month is crazy!!
Thoughts?
Thanks
Tim
Should I try the power steering method? This is really frustrating, as I just replaced my clutch and to have another expense in a month is crazy!!
Thoughts?
Thanks
Tim
#11
Power steering method works fine. I just replaced my entire front drive train with a free wheel kit. Getting the unit bearing out and getting the old U-Joints out was the hardest part. A bit of heat is your friend on the U-Joint removal....
I've got two unit bearings that are in great shape although they have 98K on them. I'm going to throw them on Ebay if someone wants a spare set for cheap $$........
I've got two unit bearings that are in great shape although they have 98K on them. I'm going to throw them on Ebay if someone wants a spare set for cheap $$........
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I talked to the shop again about my rusted in unit bearing.... He was trying to get it out using a air hammer and almost stripped one of the bolts.. Pushing with the air hammer was destroying the threads.. Actually bending the bolt head..
Will I be able to use the power steering method? Does anyone have suggestions on how to try and save the unit bearing? Just trying to not spend the $360 for the new unit. Is there a method to push on the bolts in a certain order to get it to break free?
A friend and I are going to try it tonight, he has all the tools needed.
Thanks for any help!
Tim
Will I be able to use the power steering method? Does anyone have suggestions on how to try and save the unit bearing? Just trying to not spend the $360 for the new unit. Is there a method to push on the bolts in a certain order to get it to break free?
A friend and I are going to try it tonight, he has all the tools needed.
Thanks for any help!
Tim
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I talked to the shop again about my rusted in unit bearing.... He was trying to get it out using a air hammer and almost stripped one of the bolts.. Pushing with the air hammer was destroying the threads.. Actually bending the bolt head..
Will I be able to use the power steering method? Does anyone have suggestions on how to try and save the unit bearing? Just trying to not spend the $360 for the new unit. Is there a method to push on the bolts in a certain order to get it to break free?
A friend and I are going to try it tonight, he has all the tools needed.
Thanks for any help!
Tim
Will I be able to use the power steering method? Does anyone have suggestions on how to try and save the unit bearing? Just trying to not spend the $360 for the new unit. Is there a method to push on the bolts in a certain order to get it to break free?
A friend and I are going to try it tonight, he has all the tools needed.
Thanks for any help!
Tim