tesla440

I'm currently blending WMO & #2 about 50/50 right now. In WI we've started to have cooler afternoons where she'll puff white smoke & a little rough running for the first couple of seconds.

I've cycled the key a couple of times to help, but is there a way to trick the truck into thinking its colder out so that I can run the heaters longer?

Otherwise I'm going to have to wire something up to the heater relay.

BTW I'm sure I don't have an injector problem, it's only white when cold & fine when warm or I can get the grid heaters to stay its fine. It starts right away & I'm not making any oil.

Any additional easy tricks would be nice to know.

Thanks!

vj_M

would be easy to wire a switch in, u might be able to take it to a dealer and get them to program it so they stay on longer..?

Pooter

Only problem too with running the grid heater longer than the cycles it does is a pretty hefty drain on the batteries, im sure youve noticed on a cold morning when it cycles on/off how the cab lights go dim, headlights dim slightly, etc...

You have high idle enabled on your truck? To help warm up in the morning?
Im guessing you already have a block heater cord too, since you're up north?

tesla440

I have the high idle enabled and a block heater. I'll have to check with a dealer, but since I'm running something that I'm not suppose to be in the tank I don't think that will look good if I need to have any engine warranty work done.

I do realize that having the grid heater on longer is a drain on batteries, but I don't think that its going to be that big of a deal since the alternater usually kicks in a bit more after it starts.

The best way to discribe the issue is that it start like an early DI engine. This is were you need to run the glow plugs for a little bit (or in our case the grid heater) so that the cylinders are warmer for better starts & decrease cylinder wash down.

As for winter I may just end up increaseing the #2 that I use in the mix.

Rpainter

white smoke and a rough idle is a symptom of a injector draining fuel back to the tank after sitting for long periods of time. the rough idle is air in the injector.

tesla440

Thanks for the input Rpainter.

I wish I could discribe this better. On colder mornings if I can cycle the grid heaters a couple of times, she starts up with ease an a small puff of gray smoke if any. On the same mornings if I don't cycle the key she'll then puff a small puff of white smoke.

She has only given me once a good 2-3 seconds of white smoke and was only rough for 2-3 seconds and then everything was smooth. I had a short trip (2-3 miles) just after that start up. When I can back out she started right up with no smoke on start up.

Other times when it's been cold overnite (in the 60s) and only out for about 8-10hrs If I start her up she'll start right up, no rough idle just a small puff of white/gray smoke. But during the same situation if I cycle the grid heaters twice there is no smoke or very little black/gray.

Also if she's left over the weekend without driving, if the temps are closer to the 70's, she'll start right up without any smoke.

One thing that I have noticed is that after about every 500miles she'll start to black smoke a little bit more for normal driving and have a little more black/gray smoke on start-up. So all I do is due a couple of full throttle runs to get the egts up to around 1300* and everything is fine as it was running straight #2.

I just think that the injectors were getting a little extra carbon on them from not being worked as hard lately.

I hope that I don't have any air in the lines especially since I have an AirDog connected directly to the injector pump.

Rpainter

when I say air in the lines I mean the seat of the injector is not sealing correctly letting the fuel return to the tank via the return line on the back of the head

tesla440

So Rpinter you're saying that I need to have a leak down test on the injectors to see if any need to be replaced?

millco

I think so...... (Maybe you'll get lucky and it is just a symptom from adding the WMO!)

How well are you filtering your WMO? (How much are you adding to a tank of fuel?)

klx650a2

Regarding your grid heaters and keeping them on longer, they are a HUGE amperage draw, as in 125 amp draw, each time they are cycled. If you do wire in an extra switch to turn them on, make sure your truck runs long enough charge them back up.

AH64ID

How are your filtering your WMO? Thats a ton of WMO for a CR, they are MUCH pickier on fuel than older diesels. 60's isn't cold, you shouldn't be having issues.

I don't don't know what oil you're burning but the oil in my truck has a flash point of 460*F, you have to have a load on the truck to get that to temp.. so when its cold you're not burning it and probably gumming up the injectors..

I would guess that you have probably damaged your injectors with WMO, and if you haven't yet I would bet you will...

Cummins allowed up to 5% on older trucks... 23.5Kpsi and contaminates don't do well for injectors.. especially when those contaminates can be iron, copper, etc.

tesla440

The filter setup is a 55gallon drum with an all in one 5mircon inner sock with 1 micron outter sock filter. The oil poured in first then diesel followed by diesel klean. Then mixed and then pumped through a 5micron goldenrod water filter setup. Goes right into the tank. I have an Air Dog filtration system which is a 2micron nominal 5micron absolute.

as for a flash point of 450* for WMO is low since Diesel ignites around 750*.

My person thought is that the inital cylinder tempurature upon start up is the issue with trying to ignite the mixture. it seemed to start just like an older DI engine where you haven't had the glow plugs on long enough.

Since it doesn't do this all the time any time in particular, and is only tied to outdoor temps is where I'm drawing my conclusion to.

I'll have to get time to take it in for an injector test to determine if its an injector issue or something else.

As for right now, my experience is leading toward cooler temps or a too much wvo to #2 ratio.

AH64ID

Diesel ignites at about 140*F, if it was 750*F our engines would never light.

And is it WMO or WVO?

BarryG

If you want to get the grids to stay on longer you need to get them to think it is colder outside then it really is as you mentioned.

The grids do have a maximum cycle of I think 30 seconds before startup (wait to start light) and then a maximum total of 180 seconds after startup up however that 180 seconds may include the inital wait to start 30 seconds. I dont think you can get it to go longer than that due to the ecm programming regardless of what temp it thinks it is.

So if the above time is not enough the only way to increase it is to add a switch straight to the grid/relays to get them to fire manually.

So what about adding a rheostat in the cab that is in line with the IAT sensor(I think that is the sensor that provides the input for the grid heater). Then you could turn it down (to increase resistance) when starting up to get the maximum grid time and once started or warmed up turn it back up to normal(no additional resistance).

The above times are from my 01 so they may be wrong but are surely close to the newer ones.

tesla440

I use both WMO & WVO... The last couple of batches have about 50/50 WMO/WVO mixed at 50% with #2. The truck likes dino WMO the best, but I usually get a mix of syn & dino WMO. I've been staying away from WVO since it tends to smoke more & makes for a thiker fuel at same temps.