View Full Version : Governor Spring Installation Instructions
03-22-2003, 03:13 PM
A big thanks goes out to Brian Block (KTA Cummins) for his help on the governor spring installation instructions.<br><br>Step 1: Remove AFC cover and pin.<br><br>Step 2: Back the load screw all the way out. Not necessary, but it will make things easier.<br><br>Step 3: Take throttle rod and spring off. Also disconnect fuel return line.<br><br>Step 4: There are now 4 allen head bolts that hold the top housing to the pump. Remove these. This is the worst part as the idle screw and cylinder head are in the way on one, but with enough work you can get them out. <br><br>Step 5: It gets tricky. When you lift the cover up you have to unhook the spring you are replacing from the bottom of the throttle lever. Also, when you lift it up the arm that rides against the afc pin has to come straight up at the same time, but the arm stays in the pump, try to keep it as straight up as possible so you dont take a chance of bending it. <br><br>Step 6: Switch the springs.<br><br>Step 7: Wipe o-ring and pump housing clean of oil an fuel so it will not leak.<br><br>Step 8: Re hook governer spring to throttle lever and put top back on pump.<br><br>Step 9: Re-install the 4 allen head bolts, attach throttle rod and spring, re-connect the return line, re-install the full load fuel screw, put AFC cover back on the pump.<br><br>Step 10: Enjoy your extra RPM's!!!!!<br><br>Side notes-- Try not to drop anything and be shure to make sure everything is clean.<br><br>If you don't make over 40psi of boost I would not worry about the valve springs.<br><br><br><br> Thanks again Brian! ;D<br> Monty<br><br><br><br>
03-22-2003, 05:00 PM
Thanks. Good instructions are just what I was looking for. Right now, I just have one question. Why do you say that 60lb valve springs are not needed until 40psi? My boost gauge only goes to 35psi, but if it is consistent after the numbers stop, I am around 40psi. Shouldn’t RPM determine when stiffer springs are necessary? When I was at 32psi, I could turn over 3500rpm. I only did that once as I did not want to float a valve, and it doesn't pull as hard at high RPM's with the stock governor spring. <br><br>Mike<br>
03-22-2003, 05:57 PM
This is something I would like to look into a little later. I plan on tinkering with the timing and turning up the fuel soon. Would I have to adjust these again after getting the spring? I'm leaning towards injectors too, am I correct in assuming I will have to reset after injectors if I adjust now?<br>thanks
03-22-2003, 07:53 PM
Good question Old Smokey as I was wondering the same thing. I will shoot him an email and ask him that very question.<br><br>Redleg, no fuel changes are required to run the higher RPM spring. As far as the injectors go, you can turn down the settings on your pump and still achieve higher hp than what you had with the pump before the injectors. But, I think most guys, including myself either keep the pump settings the same or bump them up some.
03-22-2003, 08:17 PM
Ok thanks, she's coming along nicely, but still looks ruff. It'll be a nice sleeper.
03-22-2003, 09:51 PM
From Brian:<br><br>Well, the magic number is actually 36psi since that is what pressure cummins says the valves can close against without being blown open by pressure. This is somewhat missleading because that would only happen when the cylinder pressure was 0psi on the other side of the closed valave and since our engines don't realisticly scavange that much air they will still follow the cam properly at 40psi. As for rpms go the same springs on our trucks are used on some of the 370hp motors that are rated at 3000rpm for lots longer than we will be running there, so why bother. You will not float a valve out at 3200rpm with stock springs. The same springs are on the later 12v trucks and they don't replace their springs until they go to the 4000rpm kits. <br><br><br><br>
03-23-2003, 11:38 AM
Interesting. Thanks for checking on that.<br><br>Mike<br>
03-23-2003, 12:15 PM
I finally got around to ordering the spring from Delco Diesel of OKC for 11 bucks. Should be in this week, hopefully I can get the time to install it this week and take a few snapshots.
03-23-2003, 12:33 PM
i am glad to see that there is someone out there with some so called authority that agrees with me. no slam intended for anyone just tired of trying to help and the pump gurus almost always coming up with "it wont work".
03-24-2003, 10:47 PM
My spring is ordered and on it's way too... ;D
BTW, the place I'm getting mine from said they will order in 20 or so, (min bulk purchase) and make them available to whomever wants them.
It looks like the cost to me is about $20.00 Can based on a bulk purchase of 20 minimum. So you'd be looking at conversion to USD then shipping.
I'll phone the shop tomorrow and see if there are any problems hooking everyone up so you can deal personally if you like....
I don't want to make anything on this, I just want to make sure that you/we get the best deal we can. I have not had much experience with UPS or FedEx so I don't know if the shipping cost will make it more expensive than what you can do locally. The company is here in BC.
Jughead, it was your post that turned me to the 'darkside' ....
my wife hates you... ummmmm, I mean thanks you,,, ya that's it..;)
OH, I arued with my exhaust downpipe today, it was touch and go..... finally resorted to the ole 'chain visegrips, C-clamp vise grips, cheater bar, screwdriver, liquid wrench, hammer, all sorts of metric tools, and put my 14cm NW housing on. No cutting of downpipe !!! The heat shield does slightly touch the cover of the heater fan etc. so I'll have to watch for smoke.
03-25-2003, 08:06 PM
i guess i just cant help it. looks like the pump guru on tdr just doesnt understand. the best things in life are free or inexpensive. what difference does it make what the spring fits the part# says it all it works period. someday they will learn you cant hide the simple stuff. there will always be a dumb ole country boy or girl that will learn their secrets and it will cost them money in the long run.
03-25-2003, 11:37 PM
Would that be me??
03-26-2003, 05:47 AM
you dont sound like a so called pump expert to me. you sound a whole lot smarter than any this old man has talked to. i guess i should keep my mouth shut but all af them i have "talked" to dont seem to get the big picture. we will have more power up to the limits of our equipment regardless of what "they" try to hide. ps when i looked at the specs. on the 5.9 8 yrs. ago i had a strong feeling that it was detuned or underrated.
03-26-2003, 04:59 PM
[laugh] Im a dumb ole country boy. But it sure surprises them when I start asking them about various pump components and why some changes where made to year models etc.
03-27-2003, 04:05 PM
Well Bob, it's been a couple days... hows the 14cm housing. I didn't notice a huge differance going from 18-16, but I'm sure it'll help things when I get some inectors.<br><br>WaitingtoordergovspringDon
03-31-2003, 02:07 AM
Well, my first impressions of the 14cm NW is that it spools pretty nicely. I feel the improvement going from 16 to 14 is greater than it was going from 18 to 16cm. <br>I did spend some time porting the inlet(s) of the housing, opening them up to match the gasket and smoothing as far in as I could.<br>I see boost build faster, and higher than same conditions with the 16cm. I also see approx. 4 psi more boost than with the 16cm. That is leaving EVERYTHING the same except for the housing.<br>My smoke has been reduced by oh.... 20%, but that is just "objective" observation.<br>I also notice that I have a bit less haze at idle. I guess even at idle the turbo is pushing a bit more air.<br>I haven't had a chance to do any pyro testing yet. The weather hasn't been too good.<br>I hear the thing spooling more than the 16cm, but I have also cut 3 holes in the airbox, just above the factory inlet. <br>I plan to make a "scoop" with screening (kinda like a hood scoop) to reduce larger particles/debris from getting in.<br>Someone suggested I use SS screening in a metal frame.<br><br>I received an email saying my gov. spring is in, and I'll likely get that sometime this week.<br>I'll post my honest results once it's in and I've had a chance to drive it.<br><br>Now I don't know if this is the right forum for this part but.....<br><br>The shop that got the spring in for me, does not want to market it out of their business. There are a number of honest reasons why they decline, one of which is "... if it shows up with our name on it/on the shipping, then we inherit the liability, and since we do not recommend this mod we can't warrant it..."<br>There are also some other business agreements that are in the way too...<br>So, I don't know quite how to handle this. Let me talk to them this week and see if we can set something up for you guys.<br>There is NO room for markup so no one really wants to handle the liability and break even at best, proposition.<br><br>Any ideas how this can be done??? I think they will order some for me "on the cuff" so to speak. Now, my health has been pretty poor the last while, and I don't have the resources to cover the entire batch cost and shipping.<br>I'd have to pay them as they went out though. Shipping???<br>I'm willing to have a wack at helping anyone who wants one.<br>I'm a rookie at this part. I'll report back in here in a couple days or so.<br><br>bob.
03-31-2003, 02:03 PM
Bob-<br><br>You can order the spring from US Diesel parts online. $13.50 + shipping. No trouble at all if you have the part number.<br><br>Jay
04-01-2003, 02:15 AM
Thanks Jbolt, but I was more concerned about seeing the rest of the guys got a fair shake more than anything else.<br><br>I'm wondering if making a "contact" or "source" available would be the best way to go, as opposed to bringing in 20 here in Canada, then shipping them right back across the border. Things get lost, and whatever.....<br><br>Anyway, the spring I got in is the number noted in another post... # 1 464 650 366.<br><br>Bob.
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