Zackb911

Ok guys I had an issue a couple months back where a dropped shim during my 3GSK kit ended up bending the stud the springs go on and causing the engine to run up RPM's uncontrollably. I fixed it by bending it back straight in the bore, removing the mangled shim, and it was good for a couple months. However it happened again yesterday and now the stud is definitly broken as it is VERY loose Does anyone know if this can be repaired without pulling the pump? Is it threaded in there? I really do not want to through a lot of money at this, so I need to know what my options are! Please Help!!!

Zack

gunracer1

pull the pump, it really is not that big of a deal.

Zackb911

How? I've been searching and cannot find any writeups anywhere on it.

Zack

gunracer1

it is simple, 4 15 mm bolts on the front, fuel inlet and over flow, the two bolts straight down between the govenor and the pump. and the injection lines of corse. but you will need a gear puller to pop of the gear. i can do it in less than a hour drinking beer and bs ing.

gunracer1

o yea you really need to have a 15 mm swivel socket, the ball drive one's work much better than the ones with the square joint in the middle

Zackb911

Thanks!
Do I need to get it at TDC or lock the timing? Thats the part I am unsure of and do not know how to do. I will probably just go with a rebuilt unit to be safe and want to slap it on without any problems. Also anyone know anything about the guy on eBay selling rebuilt P7100's for $895? I just need a stock 215 pump, my clutch slips with the 11 and GSK as it is

Zack

Paul Winey

Zack:

The Chilton's manual has a good write up. Get it if you don't have it. $15-20 bucks at most parts stores.

You'll also have to remove the throttle linkage. Like Gunracer said a swivel head socket on a long extension and you can reach right up along side the pump from the back. It's heavy so be careful lifting it out. If you take the engine to TDC you can then pin the pump in place too. Just remember to undo this after you get it back on. The o-ring that seals the pump to the timing case can be kind of tight. Just keep working the pump back and forth and slide it back. Don't try to pry with a screw driver, it's a sure way to bung up the mating surfaces and be careful not to grind on the studs from the timing case that the pump bolts up to. Clean the pump shaft and timing gear with some contact cleaner before reassembly. Pick up a new washer for the timing gear (cheap insurance) while you are at it too.

You'll most likely want to or have to retime it when you are done. That's another set of tools and time. Good luck. It's not as bad as some of the other jobs.

Paul

Zackb911

Paul & Gunracer Thanks!

Just to make sure I have it right: Would it be logical to just pull the pump off tonight without it locked or at TDC send the pump off tomorrow morning for exchange, pickup the manual and find TDC when I get the new one(install plate&gsk) and bolt it on? If I do that wouldn't the rebuilt pump be at the stock 12.5 timing and as long as the engine is at TDC, when it goes on, be fine?

Zack


P.S. If anyone knows the best place i.e. "cheap" that I can pick up a 215 could you let me know!!!

Paul Winey

I think you could do it that way and be okay. I'm not sure if the pump gear would rub on anything when you bring the engine to TDC after the pump is off. I do know that the small timing pin under the pump is a heck of a lot easier to get to with the pump out of the way though. You can then easliy see the index hole for that pin that is close to TDC.

Finding TDC isn't all that hard and there are a couple of methods listed in the write up for valve adjustment Valve Adjustment May be a six-of-one, half-a-dozen of the other but either method will work. You just want the engine at TDC and the pump pinned when reassembled. I would want to check the timing though after reassembly just to reassure myself, but I'm kind of ****. Read a post awhile back where someone had the pump 180 out of time. Not a good thing. The four nuts holding the pump onto the timing case aren't torqued real hard so they come off easier than you would expect, its just that they are in a nasty spot to get out and back on. Especially the bottom inboard one. I'll PM you phone number incase you get in trouble.

Paul

Dshiftff

Skip the 895 pump on ebay. Email me if you want any more info on that subject...

TNutcher

I remember hearing that NAPA is 750 or so for a 98 'back p7100 for the dodge's. I think the core charge is higher though, somewhere like 450 to 500 range.
TNutcher

Zackb911

I'll call NAPA tomorrow $750 would be a great price, core is no trouble I could pull mine now and trade it in. I think Piers sells stock ones for ~$1100 but I am not positive. I would love to find something used or rebuilt at a good price...

D- I PM'd you about the ebay pump Id love to hear what your experience was.

12valve

Pump swap writeup

Zackb911

Thanks bro! I'm going to pull that sucker today, just need to find out which lucky shop is going to empty my wallet