quads4_life

OK I called Larry and got me a new southbend con-fe and I am getting ready to tear into my truck. This will be my first clutch job on my truck so I dont want to make any mistakes so I am just wondering from all you that have done several clutch jobs what little quarks and things do I need to make sure I do first or dont forget to do. Also I got the upgraded hydrolics and I am not sure about swaping them out. I am a fairly decent mechanic I do most of my own work but like I said this will be my first clutch and dont want to mess anything up. also my trans is a NV4500 5spd

Thanks

Contractor

Not much to it. Pilot bearing can be removed with grease and a steel or wood dowel close to input shaft diameter. Surface flywheel. Make sure and keep alignment tool 90 degrees to flywheel while tightening presssure plate bolts or disk will slip down and make transmission install impossible. ( Ask me how I know this ). Drain TC or you will lose fluid from slip joint. If you have a good tranny jack, you can pull both of them together, if not probably split them. Make sure rear main isn't leaking, easy to replace if it is.

Moparmax

You don't have to drain the TC just take a cap off of a spray can and slip it over the seal. Also you may need to spread the frame to get the cross member back in.
MM

nickg

Excellent tip on the using grease...I suggest using bread! bread you say, yep! works better than grease and its no where as messy and it does not squeeze out like grease does.....try it it works!! takes two slices to do a toyota 22r pilot bearing

Contractor

Good idea with the cap on the seal. You really don't need to spread the frame if you just move the crossmember up and then back it will slide right out.

quads4_life

um bread??

I am going with the complete upgrade I have a new 13" flywheel so wont have to resurface.


also I got the upgraded hydrolics what all do I have to do with them

Thanks for the advise

jmd025

Yep, move cross member up and to the rear to remove. You will see the indentions in the frame where it comes out at.

Tate

The tranny crossmember can be a pain. My dually x-member would get hooked on the fuel lines, that one I needed to spread the frame for. Did 3 other trucks (all 4x4's after that) and was able to just up, back and hammer it out. If you have a good jack, leave the t-case on. When you go to put the pressure plate on, I'd suggest using your input shaft as the alignment tool. The plastic ones are a waste of time, atleast with the dual discs I've done. Pulling the input shaft is 4 bolts and a bit of silicone, so its not a huge process by anymeans.

quads4_life

thanks for the advice. one last thing does anybody know of a how to online some where. Just incase.

quads4_life

Hey I got another question I have the upgraded larger flywheel I am just wondering will I have to do any adjustments to the starter

Tate

There will be a spacer that needs to go inbetween the starter and engine adapter. Longer bolts will be supplied.

Valv

I've done my NV5600 on the dirt...just put some good plywood on ground., 2/3 of a day and I was out driving.

The most important thing is for me is a good transmission jack. I usually rent mine, they have 2 types, the more expensive model is very nice and can adjust transmission by a 1/8 of an inch, that's very useful, and be sure it can roll freely when you reassemble, keep floor clean.

Transmission needs a jack even a 4500 and even if you are Muscleman, TC can be handled by hand.

Be sure to mark all the driveshaft yokes, so you can reassemble it correctly, otherwise you might get some vibration later on.

Don't cut corners on prep and re assembly of the surroundings, it takes more time to remove and prep the area, then reassemble everything that the actual time involved to separate transmission and clutch then reinstall.

Important, remember to support your motor front end, or it will tilt forward a little making re-alignment tough. I always had to lift front of motor quite a bit to set it at an incline and be able to line up transmission with no problem.

nickg

here is another tip (never done it on a Dodge /Cummins) but every other tranny I have ever done it works, get two longer tranny bolts (5-6inch long) screw them in the block that way you can slide the trany right in, the bolts hold every thing in alignment while you push the tranny on. remove the alignment bolts after you put in a couple of tranny bolts to hold the assy together

quads4_life

um I did not find any

turbo2

I just did mine a couple months ago. I pulled mine on a Friday and put it back in on a Saturday. All good advice, so far. I would add this. I like to use four good jack stands to get the truck up in the air a bit. Work on concrete. If its winter where you are, get inside. I have always been able to pull the old pilot bearings with a slide hammer. Go for a good tranny jack, rent or borrow, it is well worth it. The tranny jack will give you the ability to get things lined up just right before you slide the tranny back up onto the back of the engine. If you mess this up you could easily crush the pilot bearing, which happens a lot I bet. If the tranny will not bolt up to the engine real easy then somethings wrong, back it up and check the pilot bearing. Everything is big and heavy under your truck , but it is easy to get to the bolts, easy to see what your are getting at and it is real simple, unlike most cars. Good luck.