View Poll Results: do we need to drill the crank for the second key on the fluid damper
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll
Got Boost? (jay) And I Are Wanting People To Read And Vote If You Have A Fluid Damper
#1
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Got Boost? (jay) And I Are Wanting People To Read And Vote If You Have A Fluid Damper
We are trying to figure out if we need to drill his crank for the second key way on the fluid damper how many of you have done this and how many think it actually helps.
if you vote no please explain
if you vote yes please explain
thanks for your time
danny
if you vote no please explain
if you vote yes please explain
thanks for your time
danny
Last edited by Dwitt0187; 08-08-2008 at 08:13 AM. Reason: spelling
#2
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Shoot Pourindiesel a PM. He will explain it to you.I also think Onetun had a expensive failure from not running the second dowel pin. It does usually seem to be the guys running big HP that have problems.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ight=dowel+pin
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ight=dowel+pin
#4
if you plan on high rpm's, it's very wise to install both keys. Fluidamper has 2 dampers for our trucks, both with the same parts number. One has single key and the other double
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I'm not voting but I don't know of anybody having trouble with the stock harmonic balancer although I'm sure someone has. I just don't know anyone but I have heard of quite a few that have had trouble with the aftermarket fluid dampers. Probley from not being installed correctly. I don't run one for that reason.
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#8
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I would pin it - it's what I recommend for our installs.
Can't hurt and it's cheap & easy enough to do.
There has to be some clearance between the 4 balancer holes & bolts... if the installation torque clamp load is insufficient to prevent movement of the balancer in relation to the crank snout, the inertia ring will cause the hub to knock back & forth on the bolt threads, causing ovalization of the hub's bolt holes or bolt wear/breakage - you can hardly rely on the dowel pin to stop that.
Drilling & pinning after the balancer is mounted provides the zero-clearance necessary to provide a torsionally rigid assembly that prevents excessive shock loading of the bolts or mechanical wear of the bolt bores.
BTW, since we're polling: Has anyone used the large diameter non-SFI spec FluiDampr?
Can't hurt and it's cheap & easy enough to do.
There has to be some clearance between the 4 balancer holes & bolts... if the installation torque clamp load is insufficient to prevent movement of the balancer in relation to the crank snout, the inertia ring will cause the hub to knock back & forth on the bolt threads, causing ovalization of the hub's bolt holes or bolt wear/breakage - you can hardly rely on the dowel pin to stop that.
Drilling & pinning after the balancer is mounted provides the zero-clearance necessary to provide a torsionally rigid assembly that prevents excessive shock loading of the bolts or mechanical wear of the bolt bores.
BTW, since we're polling: Has anyone used the large diameter non-SFI spec FluiDampr?
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