Gooseneck Hitch.Help
12-14-2006, 06:44 PM
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Gooseneck Hitch.Help
I would like to put a goosneck in the dodge to bring my Jeep and talon down to Florida. B&W makes one that require frame drilling (not cool man), but I can't find andthing else.
If these trucks were so popular with famers/ranchers when they came out why can'tI find anything else.
Help
If these trucks were so popular with famers/ranchers when they came out why can'tI find anything else.
Help
12-14-2006, 06:59 PM
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Which model are you looking at?
http://www.turnoverball.com/downloads/pdf/1300R.pdf
This is the 1300 and it doesn't look like any frame drilling. it looks exactly like my 04 installation.
Did you see a different model?
http://www.turnoverball.com/downloads/pdf/1300R.pdf
This is the 1300 and it doesn't look like any frame drilling. it looks exactly like my 04 installation.
Did you see a different model?
12-14-2006, 07:01 PM
#3
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Did you try uni-goose? Your going to have to do some drilling, I don't think theres too many hitches out there for these older trucks anymore.
I looked at a B&W and it required removing the bed to install it IIRC.
I have them both, uni-goose in the 1st gen, B&W in the 2nd gen. I like the B&W a little more. The 2 5/16" ball self stows, I also have a king pin adapter for an inverted mini 5th wheel.
The uni-goose is nice, but the ball doesn't self stow, you have to take it out and put it in a plastic bag so it doesn't make a mess. I do like the chain plate uni-goose has, it only requires one hold in the bed for the ball and the plate latches down over the top of the ball.
Hope that helps
I looked at a B&W and it required removing the bed to install it IIRC.
I have them both, uni-goose in the 1st gen, B&W in the 2nd gen. I like the B&W a little more. The 2 5/16" ball self stows, I also have a king pin adapter for an inverted mini 5th wheel.
The uni-goose is nice, but the ball doesn't self stow, you have to take it out and put it in a plastic bag so it doesn't make a mess. I do like the chain plate uni-goose has, it only requires one hold in the bed for the ball and the plate latches down over the top of the ball.
Hope that helps
12-14-2006, 07:10 PM
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Its a ***** putting a gooseneck hitch in a first gen, because the frame is WAAYYYYYY too close to the bed. If you will take a look in my gallery, I have a picture and story about the gooseneck hitch that came with my pickup.
Really, the best way to mount a gooseneck hitch is to get two large 6"X12" pieces of plate steel 1/2 inch thick that are bent in the middle at a 90 degree angle and a heavy 8" wide piece of channel iron as long as the width of the frame with a ball mounted in the middle. Weld or bolt the two pieces of bent iron inward at the top of the frame and sit the channel iron on top of them. That probably wasn't a clear description, but I tried.
Anyway, this is the way that welding shops mount gooseneck hitches and it is very strong.
The problem with this is that there is no room under the frame. Honestly, you would have to cut a hole in the bed the size of the channel iron to make it work. Course, if you don't mind doing that, there is no problem!
Really, the best way to mount a gooseneck hitch is to get two large 6"X12" pieces of plate steel 1/2 inch thick that are bent in the middle at a 90 degree angle and a heavy 8" wide piece of channel iron as long as the width of the frame with a ball mounted in the middle. Weld or bolt the two pieces of bent iron inward at the top of the frame and sit the channel iron on top of them. That probably wasn't a clear description, but I tried.
Anyway, this is the way that welding shops mount gooseneck hitches and it is very strong. The problem with this is that there is no room under the frame. Honestly, you would have to cut a hole in the bed the size of the channel iron to make it work. Course, if you don't mind doing that, there is no problem!
12-14-2006, 07:15 PM
#6
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I spelled it wrong . http://www.unagoose.com/
. http://www.unagoose.com/
12-14-2006, 07:48 PM
#7
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Its a ***** putting a gooseneck hitch in a first gen, because the frame is WAAYYYYYY too close to the bed. If you will take a look in my gallery, I have a picture and story about the gooseneck hitch that came with my pickup.
Really, the best way to mount a gooseneck hitch is to get two large 6"X12" pieces of plate steel 1/2 inch thick that are bent in the middle at a 90 degree angle and a heavy 8" wide piece of channel iron as long as the width of the frame with a ball mounted in the middle. Weld or bolt the two pieces of bent iron inward at the top of the frame and sit the channel iron on top of them. That probably wasn't a clear description, but I tried. Anyway, this is the way that welding shops mount gooseneck hitches and it is very strong.
The problem with this is that there is no room under the frame. Honestly, you would have to cut a hole in the bed the size of the channel iron to make it work. Course, if you don't mind doing that, there is no problem!
Really, the best way to mount a gooseneck hitch is to get two large 6"X12" pieces of plate steel 1/2 inch thick that are bent in the middle at a 90 degree angle and a heavy 8" wide piece of channel iron as long as the width of the frame with a ball mounted in the middle. Weld or bolt the two pieces of bent iron inward at the top of the frame and sit the channel iron on top of them. That probably wasn't a clear description, but I tried.
Anyway, this is the way that welding shops mount gooseneck hitches and it is very strong. The problem with this is that there is no room under the frame. Honestly, you would have to cut a hole in the bed the size of the channel iron to make it work. Course, if you don't mind doing that, there is no problem!
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12-14-2006, 07:59 PM
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I like the unagoose.
I also found that http://www.codyhitch.com/ makes one for my truck, but does require 2 holes per frame rail
I also found that http://www.codyhitch.com/ makes one for my truck, but does require 2 holes per frame rail
12-14-2006, 08:57 PM
#9
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Whats wrong with drilling? the factory punched about 100 holes in the frame.
I would say that drilling is much better than some kind of U-bolt. Long bolts stretch and loosen up... a short bolt that directly clamps 2 plates is much more secure.
I would say that drilling is much better than some kind of U-bolt. Long bolts stretch and loosen up... a short bolt that directly clamps 2 plates is much more secure.
12-14-2006, 09:04 PM
#10
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I like the unagoose.
I also found that http://www.codyhitch.com/ makes one for my truck, but does require 2 holes per frame rail
I also found that http://www.codyhitch.com/ makes one for my truck, but does require 2 holes per frame rail
12-14-2006, 10:53 PM
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12-15-2006, 08:34 AM
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Finally, a subject I know a little about and can add some hopefully helpful info to the site since I have absorbed so much!
My experience with my truck was the same as described above, the bed is too close to the frame. The channel iron concept with the nut for the ball welded to it is the most common way around East Texas for this application. The problem is on the 1st Gen, no room. I have seen it done 2 different ways, my duddy had his shortened and welded between the frame, which I was leary of, but he hauls way more weight than I, and has had no problems. Just seems like being welded up the side instead across the top of the frame would put more stress on it. My setup is a plate with the ball welded to it and two safty hooks in the bottom of my bed, around 12" x 24" with four big high grade bolts through the bed to the frame. The space between the bed and frame is filled with a sleeve that the bolts go through to keep everything nice and snug. I did not much like this setup either, but it is rated at 20K, and only cost $125 so I tried it. No problems so far, and I rountinely haul around 15K of hay & tractors daily during hay season. The advantage is the holes are not pre-drilled in the plate, so it works on several different applications, the drawback is having that big of a plate in the bed.
Jeff
My experience with my truck was the same as described above, the bed is too close to the frame. The channel iron concept with the nut for the ball welded to it is the most common way around East Texas for this application. The problem is on the 1st Gen, no room. I have seen it done 2 different ways, my duddy had his shortened and welded between the frame, which I was leary of, but he hauls way more weight than I, and has had no problems. Just seems like being welded up the side instead across the top of the frame would put more stress on it. My setup is a plate with the ball welded to it and two safty hooks in the bottom of my bed, around 12" x 24" with four big high grade bolts through the bed to the frame. The space between the bed and frame is filled with a sleeve that the bolts go through to keep everything nice and snug. I did not much like this setup either, but it is rated at 20K, and only cost $125 so I tried it. No problems so far, and I rountinely haul around 15K of hay & tractors daily during hay season. The advantage is the holes are not pre-drilled in the plate, so it works on several different applications, the drawback is having that big of a plate in the bed.
Jeff
12-15-2006, 05:53 PM
#14
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Around here, big plates in the bed are about all you ever see on trucks that have a factory bed.
They are done just like described above.
The longer/wider/thicker the plate, the more she can pull.
I have built several from 5/8 plate, with a second layer, about a foot square, centered under the ball.
Three big grade 8 bolts on each side, through the plate and frame, with spacers between the sheetmetal and frame, and big flat-washers under the frame, will hold her til the cows come home.
12-15-2006, 09:49 PM
#15
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100% ignorant on this topic but could you do the same thing that came with our trucks? Mine has the kind that pivots out of the bed- is this system no good? I will give detail if you need them. Rich