Jambbii

My truck is open right now and it is a pain to drive sometimes. I found a factory power loc cheap and was wondering if I should purchase it. I am not looking for a full locker because I tow sometimes and the detroit and arb units are very expensive.

Thanks

DRM

I am not a huge fan of gov-loc's due to their design of needing a little spin to get them to lock up. Some people do like them though - personal preference I guess.

I like a nice clutch type LS myself, nice constant and predictable operation.

Having had ARB's in several vehicles, expensive or not a spool type device is definately not what you want.

A Detroit is actually a very nice locker - you may want to reconsider it. With a long-wheelbase vehicles you will hardly notice it back there.

Another option would be to consider the Tru-Trac LS unit if they make one for your axle. This torsen type diff is traction sensing and works VERY well. However - price will be right up there with the Detroit locker.

Good luck

R-O-B

Mine is good after 210,000 miles. I don't drag race it at all but if one tire is in the snow and the other in on dry pavement, it don't slip. That is the only times it is put to the test for me.

cumminsdriver635

I definatley like my factory Limited Slip. Every time i burn tires, its both sides burning, unless im going around a corner. It really helps a lot for me because im on the grass, and in mud quite a bit pulling stuff because i live on a small farm, and i really like it. My friend has a 95 without it, and any little hill you take off on, on the road, if you get on it at all it starts burning one side.

Eric

Jambbii

Thanks for the replies, I am still somewhat torn between lsd and a lockright, both are resonably priced.

Crimedog

I'm not for sure here, but isn't the factory locker and the lock-right the same? I remember seing my dad's sales sheet for the factory LSD, and it said lock right. I always thought that they used lock right in there. Correct me if I'm wrong though

DRM

Do you have a Dana 60 or Dana 70 rear axle? The lockright is not a bad choice for the cost minded owner looking for an increase in traction, but I just dunno if you will like it unless you are actually using the truck off road.

BTW - here is a review I did for the Aussie Locker (of the same basic design for a lockright):
http://www.pirate4x4.com/productrevi...sie/index.html

I think probably for general road use and some towing - a LSD of some kind is your best bet.

DRM

I am not aware of a lockright being offerent as a factory option for anyting. GM has used Gov Loc's and Detroit lockers from time to time, not sure about a Dodge.

Actually, I am not aware of any kind of factory LOCKER (not the same as a limited slip) that has been offered in a Dodge

RATTLINRAM

I can think of two occasions when the LS/Anti-Spin dif saved me from getting stuck. Once when pulling the 5er out of the yard at home and once in a KOA campground in Bristol where they had just put down fresh deep gravel. The roads in that KOA are STEEP and the owner even told us "When you get ready to leave in the morning,,,,,,,,, get you a good running start down here so you can make it up to the asphalt" The LS did its thing quite well.

More Power

SOunds like you guys have all had good luck. Mine LS rear sould be called limited traction because it almost never works and i have canged rear diff oil two different times with no luck.

Idaho CTD

I dont know who here is a member of TDR but there was a thread about a year ago detailing what is needed to make the factory LS more aggressive. Basically it amounted to using thinner plates and more clutches I believe. It might be worth looking into.

cumminsdriver635

Here is the proof that mine works good . Too bad i let out of it so soon . Sorry, not a very good picture .

Crimedog

My bad Should have been more conscious of my terminology. If you have a factory LSD, is there a metal tag on the rear diff? I have a tag, but I can't read it.

ddestruel

first thing the power lok in no way resembles nor operates as poorly as the gov-loc. the power lok does operste on preloaded curved clutch plates and then uses a ramping action to increase the load placed against the clutch packs making it more difficult to overpower. if you want good lock up properties without the the full on locking action and ratcheting of a locker look to that plok. Also the Plok beats the Trac lok hands down in my opinion too.

so get the P lok if its cheap pick up a rebuild kit for 45-60 bucks if you want to tighten the engaging properties add a few extra curved clutches in place of the flat disks.

when setting the thing up you have ten clutches five on each side, in a pack of five there are 2 inners without ears and 3 outers with ears. typically a rebuild kit comes with 4 curved inner clutches and 6 flat outer clutches. if you can chase down 2 outer curves in another kit and add them to the 4 inner curves and then throw 4 flats in you would have some really good engagement. on one side of the clutch packs install a flat outer, inner curve, outer curve, inner curve, outer flat.

Good luck Ive had great luck with mine since i put them in and have had great service from mine and i havent knowticed much of a difference in traction since i changed from my detroit other than alot less rear end hop from the ratcheting that ultimately broke it.


Dusty

DRM

OOPS! I just went back & read the first post again, not sure why I had GM on the brain