jfpointer

The wife and I are buying 40 acres to have a little stretch out room and a quiet place to retreat to. 24 acres of it is in CRP, anybody know much about this program, how it works, etc.? How about tractors suitable for rough-mowing 16 acres or so? Old 8N big enough?

FastZilla

8n w/5' Brush Hog = 1.5 to 3 acres per hr. depending on grass height, terrain, obstacles.

I'd go with a Branson 45hp 4wd and a bucket (they make the 43 and 45 hp tractors for JD - so I've been told). 8 & 9n's have weak hydraulics - barely enough to run the 3 pt and almost all leak down real fast so guys pin them at the height they want. They're only 26hp and 2wd

jfpointer

I would describe the terrain as gently rolling, and the only real obstacles are things I wouldn't try to mow anyway, like a pond... 2 acres per hour is acceptable for 16 acres, knowing that it doesn't have to be mowed all pretty like a yard and not as often.

45 hp and 4wd sounds a ways out of the price range I'm looking at initially. Realistically it needs to be some type of vintage tractor with a few years left in it. I like the looks of the Allis Chalmers WD's that I've been seeing, a bit more power than an 8N, plus they're a really cool orange color.

graphitecumnz

CRP is the Conservation Reserve Program. The very premise of the program was that the government paid farmers to take crop land out of production and let it go back to "native" habitat. I'd check with the seller on when the CRP contract was signed. I believe they are 10 year contracts.

jfpointer

This one has several years left on it, about six or so, if I remember correctly. I'm wondering about how often I have to mow that 24 acres, etc. Our real estate agent indicated that mostly you're supposed to leave it alone, but occasionally FSA will tell you to mow it, etc, so I'm trying to get a feel for how often that'll happen.

doodah

yes, its a ten year program, if you want to take it out or build on the 10 yearcrp land before the time frame is up, you get a penalty and have to pay so much an acre, the county will let you mow it, but you have to asure it with your ASCS office,and you can even rake it up and bale it! as long as your not selling it for profit!

signature600

We have about 38 acres of trees and a pond in CRP ground, but I don't know anything about the program. Been like that for 15 years now, probably renew it next time, too.

As far as the tractors, I know those pretty well. Glad to here you like the looks of the AC WD, good tractors, strong engine, good hydraulics. Find one with Power steering, but if you can't, they still aren't too bad!
You will also need to get a Pull-type bush-hog, Older AC's don't have a 3-pt hitch. You can buy adapter kits for them though, ~$5-600. Might be a better route, because PT Bush-hog's are typically higher priced.

Hope this helps, and if you need anything else on the tractor questions, just let me know,

Chris

FastZilla

Trees will really slow you down, especially if you don't want grass islands around them... ACs are nice - 8n's are all over in TX - great starter tractor for around $4k. The 45hp ones with buckets will fetch easily $15k+ (but you gotta have dreams !). You can really blow and go on open flat terrain. And as always, the longer the grass, the longer it takes

Good luck - you sift through a lot of junk before you find a good one.

cumminsdriver635

If i were you i would buy a used 135 Massey Ferguson in decent shape. They were made in gas and diesel, and as we all know, you should opt for the 3 cylinder diesel . We have had a few of them, and im a John Deere man myself, but those perkins engines they use will run forever, and will start at like -25 degrees anytime you want. They are about 40-45hp, and they are very stout little tractors, and would be perfect for wht u want.

Eric

Push Rod

Its more tractor than you need, but I'd seriously entertain the thought of a 730/830 Case. Tough as nails, and still maneuverable enough for mowing. I don't know about your area, but up here, no-one wants them and they can be bought for a song... Another side benefit is that tow behind mowers are cheaper than the 3pt hitch mowers.

We still use a 930 Case for loader and mowing duties.

Rod

Iron Mike

Talk to your local FSA office or Soil and Water, Conservation District folks. Around here they are super helpful and can fill you in on the details of your particular program signup. If it's in cool season grasses they will not want you to mow it more than once or twice a year and then only at certain times. I've got 30+ acres in Prairie Grass myself and I burn it off every 2 to 3 years. The buffer around the outside gets mowed once in the spring and once in the fall, and sometimes only one of them. Depending on the area and what the owner bid, you will recieve a check once a year for the acreage. Once the program elapses you can put the plow to it and farm it for 3-4 years and then sign it back up again if it's just grasses. I've got 10 acres in a wetland that is a 10 year contract. When that contract is up I will still have a wetland. I'm not really doing it for the money, although it is nice while it lasts. But the habitat it creates for the wildlife is incredible. The ducks and geese love the wetland. The Whitetails and Quail love the Prairie Grass. Whatever tractor you get make sure it's a wide front end. Most of the ones you mentioned are. We have lost to many good farmers around here over the years to tricycle front ends. I personally love my old White. I grew up with Deere's but I just couldn't afford that Green and Gold paint at the time. Enjoy your property and good luck.

Cummins66

The CRP program is tricky, and it seems like they are always changing the rules. I think one of the latest is that you arent even allowed to mow the entire field in the same year. You could only mow up to half of it a year. That being said, I certainly wouldn't go out and buy too big or too expensive a tractor. If your only gonna be mowing 20 acres a year.

jfpointer

Thanks all for the info and tips. I'm not a real grass expert, so I'm not sure what type of grass it's planted in; it looks coarser than typical "lawn" type grasses, but that doesn't tell anyone anything.

I've noticed that those Case 930s seem to go cheap on eBay and elsewhere relative to other tractors of that size and power. If I could find a 730/830/930 close enough to make transport a possibility, I'd be willing to buy more capability than I really need. Overkill is good. The MF 135 looks pretty good, too, but they tend to be a little pricier relatively speaking, although nowhere near what Deeres seem to go for.

I'm definitely going with a wide front end for stability reasons, both mowing and for a loader (eventually, anyway) since I'm going to need to grade out a driveway that can be gravelled and perhaps eventually paved. There's a 40x30 building at the rear of the property and we intend to store a project vehicle or two there.

tool

Good tip on the 830/930 tractors... I'm going to make another recomendation from the previous series of tractor.

Look for a Case 400 or 500, great tractors. Cheap to buy, lots of power for what you want.

Run for ever!!!

We have one here that is definitely in excess of 10,000 hours. when we mounted the clock a few years ago, we have logged about 4,000 hours since!! LMAO

The tractor was almost 40 years old when we mounted it! Motor has never been apart in the almost 20 years we have owned it.

Doing the first clutch job since owning it, it does loader duties every single day..

cumminsdriver635

I didnt think of it earlier, but if you want a GREAT cheap tractor that has parts readily available, go for an old international H ,or M or something. The M has about 55-60hp, and were great tractors, and we had an old H that we bought for $800 that was a good old tractor too. Less power than the M, but should have more than enough for mowing. Only downfall that i just now thought of is that most were tricycle front end.

Eric