00 5.9 ctd

my 4wd is not engaging in the front end, it has vaccum but the engaging mechanism im pretty sure isnt working, i read on here about the posilock kit, i was wondering if one could be made or where to buy one at

logskidder

I got one from summit racing.....200 beans

waldersha

You can get one through Amazon for about $160 + shipping. Can't remember which site it directs you too. I ended up making my own out of some 3/8" steel rod. Once I get done fine-tuning it I'll put up some pics.

Sean Allan

I have a clunk in my 4x4 system as well, and I was interested in going away from the vacuum actuated system. I would really appriciate it if you could please post pictures and a description of your "Engineered" solution to the problem.
Thanks,
Sean.

TxDiesel007

200 bucks from 4wheelparts.com

Rick

00 5.9 ctd

yes please post pics, i would like to just build my own but may have to buy one, thanks

waldersha

I'll see if I can get some pics tonight when I get home. Basically, I just took two 6' pieces of 3/8" steel bar. I bent one to go from the actuator to the frame rail on the driver side. There I used a caster (minus wheel) as a pivot plate, and a pair of lawnmower tie rod ends for some extra flexibility. I used a second piece of steel bar from the caster into the cab. I have it mounted right below the steering column by the OBDII plug.

When you pull the rod in the cab, it swivels the caster around pulling the actuator in. When you push it back, it pulls back out. I did have to cut the vacuum motor off and cut the hex head on the shift rod down so I had enough room for travel. Used 3/8" rod because that's what the shift rod in the actuator is. Cut threads on all of the pieces with either a 3/8-16 or 3/8-24 die. I still have to make the final mount for the inside of the cab, angle mount attached to one of the screw holes for the knee bolster, and I have a threaded **** to put on the rod.

Because I had to rework a couple of the bends, it took about 4 hours. It would take less to do a second as I've figured out the right spots to mount it etc.

00 5.9 ctd

thats pretty cool, i am going to tear into mine and see what i can come up with

waldersha

Just waiting for my pics to get approved now. I'll post them once they are.

waldersha

Here are some pics.





This will give you the basic idea. I did have to bend the rod out of the way of the oil pan, but it is still even with the axle, so it doesn't hang down in the way of anything.

TxDiesel007

Very Interesting

SImple, effective and it works, How much would u say it all costs? There is a cost effective alternative, here compare to the original.. I like ur idea...




Rick

waldersha

Well, if I hadn't had to buy the dies it would have cost about $80 plus my time. So as long as I only am worth $.10 an hour, it came out cheaper than the other deal. According to my wife that is. . . I think it took about 4 hours to put together.

00 5.9 ctd

thats pretty inovative, i like it, i took my box off tonite and got a few ideas how to engineer mine up, also where the vaccum hooks up how did you get the rod to stay in there and to not leak, i thought about doing kinda what you did only using a cable

waldersha

The rod has an oil seal on it to keep it from leaking. The e-clips keep it from coming out any further.

The only reason I didn't use a cable is for the possibility that it would get crudded up and become difficult to move. I guess the other system (posi-lok) has been working for folks, so it may not be an issue, just my own thoughts.