TRCM

Ok guys...need to know where to get a good P7100 pump for my truck.

It has always been impossible to adjust the idle without getting a runaway type reaction, and it has always been near impossible to hold a steady rpm revving it in neutral. But it has been acting really wierd lately, like really low idle (600-650 rpm with a/c on), and smoking more than normal, and adjusting the idle just got you a high revving (sticking) engine. When I was adjusting the governor springs (previous owner had them way too tight), I was turning it using the alternator. It got kinda hard one time, then easy again. Not hard enough to cause me great concern, but none the less.

Now, the gear, nut & shaft are spinning in the gearcase, but the back of the pump where the governor springs are located is NOT spinning. Seems something let go in a big way.

If this is repairable, or someone has seen this before, let me know.

Otherwise, I will be looking for a new pump.

TNutcher

I remember hearing NAPA has good prices for 98 back p7100's
TNutcher

infidel

Prices are decent here http://www.usdieselparts.com/category.cfm?Category=1009

TRCM

Dang...that 400 hp pump for $ 1995 looks pretty good.......wonder what they did to mod it up ?

Dshiftff

http://www.mwfi.com/p7100.htm

TRCM

Thanks,

But I personally have a problem with someone who sellls the parts and supposedly knows about them, but yet they call a P7100 (all mechanical) pump an "Electronic Fuel Injection Pump".

Sorry, no electronics on my pump that I can see anywhere.

infidel

If you are interested I'd call and ask.
US Diesel (formerly Gomer's) is a top notch operation and will be able to tell you exactly what has been done.

Yeah the electronic business caught my eye instantly also.
Could be the person laying out the webpage wasn't real knowledgeable about anything mechanical.

TRCM

I'm gonna call tomorrow. I am worried tho about the core charge. if the main shaft is snapped, as it appears, they may not give me any core money back.....and if that's the case, I will buy it elsewhere. I can do a lot of mods for 2000 bucks.

Thanks for the tip tho....looks promising (except for the core)

Timinva came by to check it out today, and his assessment is the same as mine...something inside the pump is broken pretty bad.

And true about the web page layout...but to me, if the people don't care enough to check out what their advertising says....they don't need my money.

I can't afford to buy something and find out it isn't as advertised. Not saying that is the case here, but you kow what I mean.

gunracer1

are you sure the govenor assemble has not had the big nut come unscrewed on the back of the shaft? it is tighted with a hugh flat screwdriver type tool.

TRCM

After talking to us diesel today, Yes, I think the nut has come off or loose that holds the taper fit between the flyweights and the cam portion of the pump shaft.

And No, they said the 400hp pump would NOT allow me to tow without very high egt's, and twins/huge single

So, I'm about to go remove the pump and see what it is and who's gonna rebuild it/test it

LanceD

how did you loosten that nut? did you have the little pump stop thing in when you were turning the engine or what? Id like to know so I don't make the same mistake

Mcmopar

What did you guys find out?

TRCM

Well, it's out. MAN !!! removing one of them sucka's by yourself is a bear !!

No, I didn't not do anything except put the socket on the nut (30 mm or 1 3/16) and pop it with my hand a few times.

You will most likely break the timing pin if you have it in. The FSM actually tells you to set it at tdc, then completely remove the timing pin BEFORE you remove the timing gear nut.

No determination yet, I removed it tonight, and had to go buy a socket to do it. Then screwed around with it for awhile, and after talking to Timinva, I realized I missed a step in the FSM, the one telling ya to remove the lower bracket bolts. The way it was worded is kinda vague. Anyway, after I pulled them, it came out pretty easy, but getting it out of the truck with all the other stuff in the way, by yourself, was no fun.



LanceD - Based on what I was doing at the time it happened, I wan't doing anything wrong. BUT, I don't trust the previous owners doings, and he was in there when he put the 3k kit in.

12VSuburban

Actually, it could be considered electronic. Try unplugging the wires that go to the fuel solenoid on the pump and try to start it. Now, we know you can push that solenoid up by hand but it is in factory mode engaged using electric.

I guess I'm playing a little bit of the devil's advocate because it not being electronic is one reason I used the 12 valve instead of the 24 for my conversion. But....

Shane

TRCM

I know what you are saying, but there is a difference between somethign that is electronic and something that is electrical.

Electronic = electrical signals vary the devices output based on sensor inputs

Electric = electricity makes it operate, but does not vary it's output in any way